Was hauling my cyclone rake with my bad boy 54" mz magnum. Its been running great but I shut it off to do something and now it will do nothing, Checked fuse near battery and connections to safety switches. even charged the battery which it did not need. When I sit in the seat and levers out brake on i turn switch and I can hear a faint click
any ideas???
#2
mitchstein443
Hmm, probably not your case, but in mine I had the samething with an old craftsman II tractor, I left the PTO switch on which made a click sound that I thought was the starter relay.. lol.. turning off the pto and it fired right up... Also on my lt1000 my lever for putting the deck up and down was just slightly off top and the tractor would only start if I pulled it up and turned the key at the sametime.. an adjustment to the deck and the safety switch and all was fine..
Just went out and jumped the solenoid and it turned over good. removed wires from solenoin and no continuity between two large posts which I think is normal. The small wire was corroded and I leaned it still will not turn over. I think there is a wire in the engine that takes all safetyies out. Not sure about that. I think it may be a safety switch. I have jumped both switches on operating arms , no change. seat switch no help. I sometime had to hold up on the brake to start. Not sure where that safety is. any idesa would be appreciated.
The faint click is the fuel solenoid.
So you have a problem with the cranking circuit.
Start by bypassing the entire cranking circuit by energizing the the starting solenoid directly
If it has 1 small terminal at the base, turn the mower on & jump from the hot heavy terminal to the small trigger, engine should crank if solenoid is good.
If not jump from the battery - to the base of the solenoid & try again.
If you have a 2 trigger solenoid ( called 4 pole ) then jump one to the hot lead & the other to the battery -, does not matter which way round.
Engine cranks then again a safety switch problem.
From memory ( do not have a circuit diagram ) BB use a relay to trigger the solenoid.
dealer says maybe ignition switch so I am going out to pull the plate it is mounted on. looking under I can see a relay or fuse I will check those too.
replaced ignition switch , blade engagement switch and solenoid. Still nothing but I got a lot of new parts, total so far 53.00 Still will not turn over. only thing left is a safety switch. I will test them all tomorrow with a meter.
replaced ignition switch , blade engagement switch and solenoid. Still nothing but I got a lot of new parts, total so far 53.00 Still will not turn over. only thing left is a safety switch. I will test them all tomorrow with a meter.
You can use an automotive test light, should cost about 10 bucks or less... Electrical issues always seem tricky, but if you test each switch individually it is cake work...
You can use an automotive test light, should cost about 10 bucks or less... Electrical issues always seem tricky, but if you test each switch individually it is cake work...
I finally used my test light and found a broken wire on the right arm. repaired and running great. Thanks for all the help. I now have a spare solenoid, ign switch and blade control button. I will just file them away. expensive lesson but I learned a lot about my mower.
also on the funny side. I disengaged my mower by pulling out the two levers so I could push it to the shop. I got the engine running. started to try it out and it would not move. I was terrified I had screwed up. Then I remembered the levers. work good now.
The yellow or white wires on the arms are good about coming out of the connectors on the safety switch. Check those wires they come uncrimmed a lot the bad boy wiring are cheap and cheap made.
replaced ignition switch , blade engagement switch and solenoid. Still nothing but I got a lot of new parts, total so far 53.00 Still will not turn over. only thing left is a safety switch. I will test them all tomorrow with a meter.
