Put a scissor or screw type jack ( two is better ) behind the wheel bearing on the frame so that the hub is under a bit of pressure.
Put a punch on the end of the axel and then hit it hard.
I have an air hammer / chisel thingy that came with the air tools as part of the compressor package they I use on the axle/
he landlord has a rotary hammer / demolition hammer that he uses.
The sharp jolts on the axel , working against the pressure from the jacks will get it off but it might take a while.
You can add some heat to the hub which might help.
Had one I spent all day on, got up the next day and it had popped off all by itself overnight.
Thank you you sir. Will get one on next attempt on other side man that was a nightmare!!! To say the least!! No help from manuel it not up to par for the price we pay for the Mowers but thanks again
Tim
We have a local ride on company that uses cast alloy wheels with a taper fit on a steel shaft for the rear wheels.
You are supposed to remove the rear wheels annually .
Because these mowers are so well built they rarely ever break down so never come in for a service and some of these wheels have been on the shaft for 20 + years.
Rear wheels are $ 250 each so I have gotten real good at removing them .
Arh the tapered hub is actually the pulley boss.
Same method only he will need some one to lever it up with a pair of crow bars ( wrecking bars to some )
But in my shop it would be out with the Dremel or 1mm cut off wheel.
Finally replaced pump along with pulley and the hub oh yeah oil change twice plus business was not able to get to $$$ well over 3,000 that sucks cannot believe paying 10,000 for the Wildcat no Manuel's on Replacing a Hydraulic pump. Hope I do not run into any.Two days to replace and not sure how much skin left on knuckles!! Well looking forward to changing the left one! Thanks for your help (experienced in changing a Hydrolic pump?) Again I greatly appreciate everyone's help
