Hello, new member here. I have a White LT-2200 Model # 13A6606H790 SERIAL # 1A154H20132. I've had problems this season with the carburetors needing cleaned. I had that done by local repair shop & it is now running fine. However, after getting it home the V belt came loose . I returned it to the repair shop, they replaced the drive (long) belt, 2 pulleys & replaced a broken bolt in the v pulley. When I got it home I mowed my yard (about 2-1/2 acres with steady slope) & the grass was very high & thick. The v belt came off a couple of times & finally broke & shredded. I replaced with a after market (it was July 4 holiday, repair shop closed) & finished my mowing. As I finished the mower stopped & I noticed the v belt was off again & the tension springs (part # 732-0963 & 732-0384) broke were broke. I have since replaced the v-belt with OEM, replaced both springs per OEM. However, the mower now runs very slowly; about 1/2 the speed as normal. I noticed this seems to be a recurring theme among this era of mowers regardless of manufacturer. However; there is little information of how to fix it or for that matter exactly what is wrong. My mower runs fine, cuts grass fine, just runs very slowly whether I have cruise control engaged or not. I was hoping the springs were the issue, but i've ruled them out. Any ideas on what the problem could be?
White Riding Mower Going Slow
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bertsmobile1
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:welcome:
First problem is you double posting
SO go stand in the naughty corner.
But as you were a good boy and posted all of the mowers numbers, you only have to stand there for 10 minutes if you promise not to do it again :laughing:
It gets very confusing :confused2:
Download your parts diagram from here ( 4th one down I think )
http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/White-Outdoor-Parts-Manuals/2004%20Models/
What are the springs and pulleys that you replaced , part number or diagram number ?
You should find your repair manual here
http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/White-Outdoor-Repair-Manuals/
If it is not yours then go the home site (www.mymowerparts.com) click on the "free manuals" and navigate down to the MTD folder
With the vari drive systems you usually have to replace the belts as a pair and they must be OEM belts as they are neither a standard size nor shape.
On the double pulley make sure the middle piece that both the belts run against is free to move up & down because that is how the speeds are altered and if it is sticky then it won't change speeds.
First problem is you double posting
SO go stand in the naughty corner.
But as you were a good boy and posted all of the mowers numbers, you only have to stand there for 10 minutes if you promise not to do it again :laughing:
It gets very confusing :confused2:
Download your parts diagram from here ( 4th one down I think )
http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/White-Outdoor-Parts-Manuals/2004%20Models/
What are the springs and pulleys that you replaced , part number or diagram number ?
You should find your repair manual here
http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/White-Outdoor-Repair-Manuals/
If it is not yours then go the home site (www.mymowerparts.com) click on the "free manuals" and navigate down to the MTD folder
With the vari drive systems you usually have to replace the belts as a pair and they must be OEM belts as they are neither a standard size nor shape.
On the double pulley make sure the middle piece that both the belts run against is free to move up & down because that is how the speeds are altered and if it is sticky then it won't change speeds.
how do you suggest I check the double pulley? I sprayed wd-40 on there to make sure nothing was sticking, but I presume I should do more? Please elaborate. Also, for what it's worth, I've noticed that the mower does not speed up at all after I press the accelrator about 25%. It simply keeps the same slow speed.
bertsmobile1
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Before I go ito a 10 page diatribe, do you understand how the vari drive works ?
If not then go for a little wander down You Tube lane.
Taryl Fixes All , Donny boy 87, Mower Medic are all reliable videos done by professionals rather than a monkey who worked out how to turn on a video camera.
Photos of your set up are in the Y2K White manual in those links posted earlier and a little more is in the Must have MTD manual No 2 although most in there is for the earlier set ups.
The sliding part of the sheaf must go up and down smoothly.
If it is notchy then it is replacement time.
WD 40 gets used for drying out electrical connections, it is not nor even has it been a lubricant.
The stuff to use on the sliding sheave is any of the dry chain / control cable lubes for pushbikes, but take your big wallet with you and some smelling salts before you ask the price.
You only need a very small bottle.
I use Tri-Lube but they are all much of a muchness.
Everything hinges on spring 21 which pulls the tensioning pulley on the top belt tight and despite how it is depicted in the parts diagram, goes across the mower to anchor on the LHS frame rail ( sitting on the seat )
If not then go for a little wander down You Tube lane.
Taryl Fixes All , Donny boy 87, Mower Medic are all reliable videos done by professionals rather than a monkey who worked out how to turn on a video camera.
Photos of your set up are in the Y2K White manual in those links posted earlier and a little more is in the Must have MTD manual No 2 although most in there is for the earlier set ups.
The sliding part of the sheaf must go up and down smoothly.
If it is notchy then it is replacement time.
WD 40 gets used for drying out electrical connections, it is not nor even has it been a lubricant.
The stuff to use on the sliding sheave is any of the dry chain / control cable lubes for pushbikes, but take your big wallet with you and some smelling salts before you ask the price.
You only need a very small bottle.
I use Tri-Lube but they are all much of a muchness.
Everything hinges on spring 21 which pulls the tensioning pulley on the top belt tight and despite how it is depicted in the parts diagram, goes across the mower to anchor on the LHS frame rail ( sitting on the seat )
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
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Into a punched hole from my very unreliable memory.
A strong light is your best friend there will be frett marks where it has been rubbing.
Go back to the MTD links above and download the 700 series MTD manual
Figure 5.1 shows the exact location of the spring.
A bit further down there is a couple of diagrams of the other pulleys & springs.
A strong light is your best friend there will be frett marks where it has been rubbing.
Go back to the MTD links above and download the 700 series MTD manual
Figure 5.1 shows the exact location of the spring.
A bit further down there is a couple of diagrams of the other pulleys & springs.
bertsmobile1
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Well first problem was you did not take that photo before you started.
Second problem is the lower belt is routed incorrectly it should run on the other side of the pulley on the left side of the picture.
Belts go outside on a flat pulley and inside on a V pulley
That spring will go under the belt and hook into the hole visible in the photo exactly as shown in figure 5.1 as previously mentioned
The long belt goes through the two idlers as per figure 5.3
These are taken from the 700 series manual
http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/MTD-Service-Repair-Manuals/
This manual is the one you need to look at.
Troy-Bilt-Yard-Machines-700-Series-Riders-Repair-Manual.pdf
Second problem is the lower belt is routed incorrectly it should run on the other side of the pulley on the left side of the picture.
Belts go outside on a flat pulley and inside on a V pulley
That spring will go under the belt and hook into the hole visible in the photo exactly as shown in figure 5.1 as previously mentioned
The long belt goes through the two idlers as per figure 5.3
These are taken from the 700 series manual
http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/MTD-Service-Repair-Manuals/
This manual is the one you need to look at.
Troy-Bilt-Yard-Machines-700-Series-Riders-Repair-Manual.pdf