When backing up Snapper series 15 SR1433 is making a noise/squealing

J

Just Don

Member
When I'm backing my Snapper 331415KVE series 15 SR1433 it is making anoise/squealing.
Maybe a metal rubing against each other. I don't know how long it set before we go it running.
Can someone help me, itseems like the clutch is loose like it needs another spring in there.
There is a spring there now. I can't find a diagrham showing this.

I have 6 snappers and this is the one isn't like the rest of them, I had them all standing in the yards looking at each one.
Look like I was growing snappers.

Also I have other snappers series 3, 6, 21, and some 23, I was wondering if it is possible to switch out the rear end with any of there I'd like to go later model.

The mower runs really good, it cuts really good also, the kohler sounds great, maybe a little more carb adjusting. I'm going to put new boots on it.
The oxygon shaft was so rusty we had to put wd40 and light taping to get it to shift. We did put some grease on the axle when I get the new boots
I'll clean up the shaft better.

A local mower shop owner passed away and I bought 5 snappers from thefamily $25 a piece.
The SR1433 is a mower I was wanting, they are such a clean looking unit.
For being a 1995-98 mower it looks prettygood.

Thanks every one for your help. Don
 

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Just Don said:
I was wondering if it is possible to switch out the rear end with any of there I'd like to go later model.
Click to expand...
You got it backwards. You meant to say older TANK like Snapper build. New mowers even Snappers are not comparable to the older Snappers by far.
Just Don said:
I'm going to put new boots on it.
Click to expand...
Use OEM Snapper boot parts here. Ask me how I know. If you like buying two sets of boots and installing twice.......
Just Don said:
We did put some grease on the axle when I get the new boots
I'll clean up the shaft better.
Click to expand...
Ah GENTLE my friend gentle. Grease will attract grit. I would wipe ALL the grease off immediately. Take a red rag and spray the hex shaft with silicone spray only. Let sit then wipe off any excess. I like silicone spray as it is not a heavy lube. A very good one at the same time. Maybe compressed air to remove excess lube.

Think I have the same one in a 33" deck. Do NOT sell it. Your grandkids grandkids grandkids grandkids grandkids grandkids will be mowing with it.

Use ONLY Snapper 00 grade lube to fill the chain case and rear diff. Has a consistency of pudding. Tractor supply has it for like 5 bucks a quart or used to.

Just Don said:
Can someone help me, itseems like the clutch is loose like it needs another spring in there.
There is a spring there now. I can't find a diagrham showing this.
Click to expand...
Go to any mower site online. They will have a parts list for it showing all the parts she has. Remember the mower has numbers and the engine separately has parts/serial numbers. StarTech I bet has every IPL known LOL.

There is a spec distance from the driven disk to the drive disk. Drive disk is off the crankshaft directly. Other one has the rubber ring around it. Best drive system out there. If that distance is off, she will not pull hills and when towing leave you stranded. No forward drive power. Rubber driven disk needs good contact with the drive disk for forward propulsion.
Just Don said:
it is making anoise/squealing.
Maybe a metal rubing against each other. I don't know how long it set before we go it running.
Click to expand...
Probably all rusted up. Pull it apart. Clean it all up LIKE A NEW MOWER. She will run like new. Maybe missing parts? Poorly installed parts? Non OEM parts?

Take a drill to spin the engine over, NOT the engine. Put down a big piece of cardboard to protect the rear or carpet/rug. Put the front end in the air. Put in gear. Listen and LOOK at the drive components. Simulate the drive system. I've never done this. Might need a big 1/2" corded drill. Keep your battery toys in the tool box. See what you get.
 
Describe the one you need help with and what is happening without adding all the gibberish about all the other equipment you have.

AKA: "Get to the point"
 
Auto Doc's said:
Describe the one you need help with and what is happening without adding all the gibberish about all the other equipment you have.

AKA: "Get to the point"
Click to expand...
This should be automatically inserted after every new post is started.

We don't need hours on the worn out oil sucking mower. No need for it ran great last year now she sat all winter with E-85 gas in the carb, now she won't run. LOL Uncle Jim used it last and now it cuts funny. Or she doesn't crank now after I left the battery out in the frozen tundra all winter. What could it be???? ;)
 
slomo said:
You got it backwards. You meant to say older TANK like Snapper build. New mowers even Snappers are not comparable to the older Snappers by far.

Use OEM Snapper boot parts here. Ask me how I know. If you like buying two sets of boots and installing twice.......

Ah GENTLE my friend gentle. Grease will attract grit. I would wipe ALL the grease off immediately. Take a red rag and spray the hex shaft with silicone spray only. Let sit then wipe off any excess. I like silicone spray as it is not a heavy lube. A very good one at the same time. Maybe compressed air to remove excess lube.

Think I have the same one in a 33" deck. Do NOT sell it. Your grandkids grandkids grandkids grandkids grandkids grandkids will be mowing with it.

Use ONLY Snapper 00 grade lube to fill the chain case and rear diff. Has a consistency of pudding. Tractor supply has it for like 5 bucks a quart or used to.


Go to any mower site online. They will have a parts list for it showing all the parts she has. Remember the mower has numbers and the engine separately has parts/serial numbers. StarTech I bet has every IPL known LOL.

There is a spec distance from the driven disk to the drive disk. Drive disk is off the crankshaft directly. Other one has the rubber ring around it. Best drive system out there. If that distance is off, she will not pull hills and when towing leave you stranded. No forward drive power. Rubber driven disk needs good contact with the drive disk for forward propulsion.

Probably all rusted up. Pull it apart. Clean it all up LIKE A NEW MOWER. She will run like new. Maybe missing parts? Poorly installed parts? Non OEM parts?

Take a drill to spin the engine over, NOT the engine. Put down a big piece of cardboard to protect the rear or carpet/rug. Put the front end in the air. Put in gear. Listen and LOOK at the drive components. Simulate the drive system. I've never done this. Might need a big 1/2" corded drill. Keep your battery toys in the tool box. See what you get.
Click to expand...
Slomo I found out the problem it was the bushing that was wore out on right side, shaft was trash.
 
I apologize for being so long winded in my telling about my SR1433, and my other mowers. When I bought I didn't ask who's Uncle had it, and I don't care. I posted the other mowers seeing if I could use one for parts, thanks for not reading that part.
Thanks slomo for your help people like you are what makes a good forum, and I wonder about this forum forsure, and the troll auto doctor.
 
slomo said:
This should be automatically inserted after every new post is started.

We don't need hours on the worn out oil sucking mower. No need for it ran great last year now she sat all winter with E-85 gas in the carb, now she won't run. LOL Uncle Jim used it last and now it cuts funny. Or she doesn't crank now after I left the battery out in the frozen tundra all winter. What could it be???? ;)
Click to expand...
I don't really think I said any of this.
 
Just Don said:
I don't really think I said any of this.
Click to expand...
Same here. It does get frustrating we see the same stories everyday on here.

No offense Just Don. More like talking out loud with nobody listening LOL.

I like how T-Bone says on Raley's Small Engines, "This is your get to the point channel". Love it.......
 
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