My brakes weren’t working well and they finally failed the other day while mowing. I just replaced the brakes, but the wheels still turn when the brake is applied.
I’ve tightened down the middle bolt on the brake assembly to make sure the pads were contacting the rotor, to the point while the rotor wouldn’t even turn, and the wheels still moved.
I haven’t put the second wheel on or taken the mower off the jack stands yet. Was trying to make adjustments first.
Not that I am aware of. Bought the mower used a couple months ago, so I am not positive. Worked ok for several cuts, but the brakes were never great. Ground drive belt broke, I replaced it and mowed the lawn. A few hours into the mow, the brakes completely stopped working.
As I am writing this, I think I may have rolled it down the driveway and put it in the garage after the brakes went. Embarrassed to say, I can’t remember if I tried driving it after it broke. I could throw the wheels back on and try driving it.
The brake on a lawnmower is on the layshaft not the axels.
As such it locks the diff, which is exactly how the P position works on an auto box.
In this condition each wheel can only turn in opposite directions.
Thus the brake does not stop the wheels from turning so no amount of adjusting will stop the wheels turning when the mower is on a stand.
With the wheels on the ground when the brake is applied if one wheel can only go forward and the other backwards then you come to an abrupt stop regardless of what direction you were traveling in.
Now because the brake & the clutch work on a single pedal, you adjust the brake so that the ROTOR is locked just as the dive belt gets enough slack to slip on the pulley.
There should be an adjustment on the brake rod which is usually sprung as well as the adjustment on the brake caliper itself.
Naturally you do not what the mower to be braking and clutching at the same time.
So first adjust the rod so the brake lever does not move till the belt has enough slack to JUST START TO SLIP / only just drives
next adjust the caliper so that with the pedal in the locked parking position you can just push the mower against the brake, then tighten another 1/2 turn.
Check again that the brake is not still on when the slack is taken out of the drive pulley.
Next find yourself the steepest hill on your property , with the engine running, apply the parking brake.
If it holds, all is well if not tighten the caliper nut in 1/6th turn increment till it does.
You need to have the engine running just in case you need to toss it into reverse to stop you imitating Mulga Bills Bicycle.
These tests need to be done both in the forward & reverse directions.
If you stop so abruptly your filling fly out of your teeth, loosen the spring adjustment on the clutch / brake rod and if the mower rolls before the drive kicks in tighten it a little.
Getting the brake/clutch balance right is a PIA trial & error job but once done can change a pig of a mower into a pleasure to use.
Bertsmobile1 - I appreciate the detailed response, it is much clearer now how the system is meant to work. I’ll jump on it after work and make the adjustments, then post up to let you know if I am still riding a pig.
That is what you get for angering the malevolent Mower gods :laughing:
Check the brake switch.
With all this mucking around it may have broken away or gone out of adjustment ( usually hidden under the dash )
