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Hi,
My terrific old Toro Wheel Horse 212-H, Model 3212 OE 03 (Fitted with Eaton 751 transaxle) has recently developed a worrying problem - its transport (top) speed has suddenly reduced to about the speed that I would cut the lawn at - no faster. Forward & reverse still work, with no hesitation. Mower deck cuts well. Its just the "transport" speed that is not happening.

I have replaced the drive belt & tensioning spring.
Checked all the linkages - look just fine
Hydraulic oil looks & smells okay (was replaced with a straight 30 grade a few years back) and there is plenty in the reservoir.
No hydraulic leaks
Engine (not the original Onan) is running very well.
Everything is clean & free from grass "chaff"

I would be grateful for any suggestions as to what might be the problem.

Go to this website, you can be a service manual for your tranny which may help. If not post back with everything you have tried. https://www.toro.com/en/parts/partdetails/?id=2672

Hi Rivets,

Have already perused that web site - the very small/short trouble shooting guide, concentrates on complete failures . Makes no mention of a slow speed transmission. I have already listed everything that I have tried/inspected.
Lay in bed last night and thought may be something has dropped onto the top of the transaxle, limiting the full movement of the actuation mechanism - will check that out today.

Ok, I tried. Since you have no more to tell us, I’ll just take a couple of guesses, maybe I’ll get lucky. My first guess wrong belt. Toro part number 114433, or did you use an aftermarket belt. Did the problem show up suddenly or over slowly get worse. Second, pulleys worn. You don‘t say if you ever replaced either of them, If they are original probably worn. You changed the engine, which could result in the need to change the size of the drive belt. Moving the engine 1/4” closer could mean needing a belt 1”-2” smaller depending on the size of the pulley. Worn pulleys and engine position could mean an even greater belt size change. Also, you say the problem is top end speed, is the cutting speed ok? I’ll get out of this thread now as those guesses are about all I can contribute from your description.

Your efforts are appreciated, my thanks.

Cutting speed acceptable but not great and no option to increase for light cutting.

Engine, B&S Intec 15.5 hp, replaced the warn out Onan, has been doing a great job for about 8 years. There was no problem in centering the crankshaft in the same position as the Onan.

Pulleys all look good. Belt tensioner, has an adjustment cam for additional tension, works as expected.

Linkages all in place & adjusted correctly .

The problem as, described, started befor the belt change. My wife, who is the main user, complained of slow transport speed. When I got on to try it, all was okay. Next time it was used, the problem came again. This time my arse made no difference. I guess this means the problem has arisen quit quickly - not progressive.

My local (non Toro) mower shop, suggested starting with the cheapest/easiest potential fixes - the drive belt. Unfortunately the correct Toro belt is not available, in Australia, at the moment, so have reluctantly gone with a non genuine. The original Toro belt PN114433 is not a typical A cross section however the non genuine is a typical A section.

The new belt has not made any change to problem.

I also tried for a replacement idler tensioning spring - again genuine Toro not available, so made up a replacement, using an of the shelf spring of slightly larger diameter (stronger spring), same length and a piece of HT fencing wire - again no change to problem.

Drove mower around for 30 minutes doing some very steep climbs/descents, reversing and flat operation - no hesitation, slowing or lack of motivation, just slow. Transaxle got warm to touch, reservoir oil remained cool.

If the belt was slipping I would expect slowing/hesitation on the steep slopes but this is not happening. Forward/reverse engagement is sharp (not gradual) again suggestive of no slip. moving rapidly between forward & reverse is jarring/instant again no belt slip.

Have now drained oil (was straight 30 grade). Old oil looked clean. had no burnt odour and with no visible particles of metal or other contaminants. Will open transaxle to check for filter contamination (not sure that this model has an internal filter) and refill with a 10W40 synthetic oil in the hope of something coming unstuck.

I am beginning to suspect an internal problem with transaxle - but what? and are parts still available?

Gates list their alternative as the A-81 from the High power II range it is a bit wider than the standard 12.5 mm A section at 14 mm
Remember this is a USA size, not an Australian size.
The rough & ready tranny test is to put the mower on a reasonable hill If it locks the wheels when you ty to push it the motor & pump are fine
If you can push it with difficulty then it has a bit of wear
If it races down the hill like Mulga Bill's bicycle then the motor & / or pump are toast

Over tim the kidney plates wear tracks in them so the oil short circuits from the high pressure side to the low pressure side bypassing the pump or motor as the case may be .
Eaton got out of mowers quite some time ago & there are no transmission parts available because there were not enough buyers like you & me willing to pay for top quality long life equipment .

However most hydraulic workshops can machine the offending parts then shim them up back to servicable condition.
The rough & ready test for wear is to use a heavier weight oil like 20W 50 .
Problem goes away = wear in the oil paths.

Wow! have you been knighted yet Bertsmobile1?

I will track down the Gates A-81.

Haven't tried to push on a hill test but is certainly impossible to push on the flat.

Currently have the front of the transaxle open, have cleaned the filter, (that wasn't supposed to be there according to the Eaton workshop instructions), asked Toro if a replacement Filter Gasket (PN 88-2500) is available in Au. If not will make do with old unit but will take a bit of good quality gasket goo to put back.

I am planning to refill hydraulics with a synthetic 10W-40 (which I have on hand).

Thanks for the tip on the hydraulic workshop - that will be the last resort

There is a bloke at Eagle Vale Creek up here in Sydney who does nothing but hydros
He machines the kidney plates and the cylinder chest to the required surface finish ( they are not dead smooth ) then shims them out for less than the trade price of a rebuild kit so it has become a no brainer for me.
I am yet to see a hydro that does not have a fan so if I were a betting man my money would be on over heating causing the oil to thin too much.

I am about 35 minutes west of Camden, so Eagle Vale would not be a problem - are you allowed to give contact details?

Fan good, cooling fins always kept clean. Mower meticulously blown clean, using high pressure air, after every use.

Problem starts as soon as I move of forward. Reverse has always been slower so doesnt appear to be effected. So unlikely to be temperature related.

I never give out exact addresses or phone numbers on an open public forum , way too many web bots collecting data .
However this is his ebay add . Contact him
Looks like he has now set up a factory at Smeaton Grange or is using this as a depot
I have been going to his home address .

Thanks Bert - I should be able to find him from that.

Good news! - As stated: Drained all the old 30W oil. Opened front end of transaxle (a lot more oil came out) found and removed "filter gasket". Cleaned filter ( new one not available in AU). Put everything back together as was. Refilled axle with a 15W-50 oil. Note: took a very long time for system to fill. Encouraged filling by lifting rear wheels clear of ground & running system at slow speed.
When system no longer took oil - test drive showed great improvement in forward speed. Tested system by repeatedly going up down very steep slope - all good! Transmission will "hold" in neutral on slope. Very pleased. This great old Toro will continue on for a few years yet. My thanks to my two helpers/friends Bert & Rivets for their great suggestions.

Congratulations, glad to hear the problem has been solved.

I would not go so far as to say "solved" - thicker oil is probably just taking up the wear, so I would expect the problem to appear again. I really like this old mower, so hopefully have put off the next transmission problem for some time.

As mower in great condition, I wonder (for the future) has anyone done a hydro transaxle transplant on this model?

Depending upon just how bad the trans had gotten before the owner thinks it might possibly need a service , an oil change to 20W 50 has worked from 1/2 season to 4 years & counting .Glad to hear it is up & running .
We had a full foot of grass growth this last week so you would not want to be without it for too long right now

Hi Bert,

Transaxle oil changes - must confess I dont recall seeing this on the service schedule (have I missed it?)

Another confession - in the 10 + years I have owned this mower, I have only changed the trans oil (30W) once and that was when she had a heart transplant (from Onan to B&S) about 8 years back.

From your comments above, it would seem I have been very neglectful - will now schedule a trans oil change very 2 years (sound okay ?)

As for the grass growth - you will probably not be surprised to hear that I have a small stable of pre loved mowers, from 60 in down, so the T 212-H (my wife's favorite) is not critical to our maintenance activities.

It will depend upon the makes recommendations .
Some stipulate 200 hours and other up to 1000 hours.
Residentials have no service intervals for trans oil changes.
Our Kubota says 2000 hours for oil & 500 hours for filters.
Most times you do more damage by introducing dirt into the system when changing the oil than you do running on dirty oil.

No hour metre on my 212-H - she gets a thorough service (no short cuts) once very 12 months (more often if we have a great grass growing season)

According to Eaton their 750/751 hydros are non serviceable and have no service maintenance schedule.

Well there you go - a throw away job! Well mine has had,what I would call a basic servic, in that the filter has been cleaned (would have replaced it it they were still available) and oil changed. The "boss" mowed the lawns last night with it and pronounced it as good as ever (high praise indeed)

FYI -

Opening the drain plug on the lower right side of the transmission only allows about 2/3 of the oil to drain. The remainder of the oil only came out when I removed the transmission front plate & "filter gasket".

Note Take note of the position of the adjusting bolt cam on the bracket, in front of the trans front plate - this must be put back in the same position when reassembling and later used to "fine tune" the hydraulic movement control.

Exercise care when removing the filter gasket, a thin blade/scraper should be gently manoeuvred all round, front & back, and into the centre, otherwise the complex shaped rubber gasket (no longer available) will be damaged.

Using your favorite hydrocarbon solvent, wash the filter until clean, blow or air dry befor replacing. Use a good quality oil resistant gasket paste to reassemble. When assembling with gasket past/goo, I like to only clamp to finger tight - leave for 6-24 hrs befor final even tightening.

Refilling the transmission with oil is a time consuming process.
Isolate the seat safety interlock, so that you can run the engine & engage the drive without stalling. Lift the back wheels off the ground, Fill the reservoir with oil (I used a 15w-50). allow a few minutes for some oil to drain from the reservoir into the transmission.
Start the engine. Run at idle speed. Maneuver the forward/ backing lever slowly from neutral to full forward/back to full back - as you pass through neutral a large bubble will rise into the reservoir, showing that oil is draining into the mechanism.
NOTE: the wheels will not turn until sufficient oil has entered the transmission to do so.
This action must be repeated for many minutes - toping up the reservoir as the level drops and befor more air is sucked into the trans. Eventually the wheels will start to turn in response to the control lever movements. Keep going until there is no appreciable drop in the oil level.
Place drive lever in neutral. Lower back to ground. Replace seat interlock safety system. Top up reservoir to near full.
Drive mower for 30 minutes or so, checking reservoir level as you go and topping up as required.
Check for transmission leaks

Note: Although there were several times when I thought that no more oil was entering the transmission, the reservoir oil level continued to fall slightly over the next 2 days. The aim is to have the reservoir level static at about 1/2 full (do not fill to top of reservoir, as heat expansion will cause spillage/wastage).

I hope this will help others with a similar transmission