What's this part on the carb?

[LarryJohnson]

Trying to figure out why the mower won't start. It's getting spark. Looking into carb and noticed the unfilled hole on and the small black piece I'm pointing to. Is something missing or broken. I've got a parts manual but no real good drawing showing linkages.
B&S 31R907 0007 G1 code 140924ZD
Thanks.

 

[Hammermechanicman]

Limiting cap. It is not broken.

 

[Fish]

See if the solenoid makes a "click" when the key is turned to the "on" position.
The solenoid is #947.

 

[LarryJohnson]

See if the solenoid makes a "click" when the key is turned to the "on" position.
The solenoid is #947.
View attachment 66932

The solenoid was a little sticky, so gunked it clean. It responds well now.
Uhhh, how does the "slide trombone" linkage connect to the flat plate with the hole. Did I lose a spring.

 

[StarTech]

No you didn't lose the spring as it is on the choke shaft. BTW the choke shaft should freely rotate when you push the link to the left and when you let go the link should spring back to the right until the lever its limit.

 

[LarryJohnson]

No you didn't lose the spring as it is on the choke shaft. BTW the choke shaft should freely rotate when you push the link to the left and when you let go the link should spring back to the right until the lever its limit.

OK, found a video that showing how the auto choke linkage floats in the slot.
Gapped the plugged. It was way tight. Checked spark and magneto. Getting good spark. Backfired when tried to start, then started at half power for a couple rotations, but won't stay running. Gas running out of choke side of carb during these attempts. Does that indicate a bad float. Flooding out?
BTW - I'm doing this while "working at home", LOL!

 

[StarTech]

Hopefully you got your grits and gravy together more than the customer service rep that called me a few days ago that sounded like she was recovering from an all-nighter and hadn't full sobered up.

Ruixing Carb.

Either needle seat needs cleaning, needle valve tip is heavily worn, stuck open or a combination of these. Either the float is unable to fully shut off the fuel flow when the carburetor bowl is full.

 

[Fish]

You need to disassemble and clean your carb, do it on a clean table, so you do not lose anything. That scum on your solenoid tip, has also scummed up your carb.

 

[LarryJohnson]

Hopefully you got your grits and gravy together more than the customer service rep that called me a few days ago that sounded like she was recovering from an all-nighter and hadn't full sobered up.

Ruixing Carb.

Either needle seat needs cleaning, needle valve tip is heavily worn, stuck open or a combination of these. Either the float is unable to fully shut off the fuel flow when the carburetor bowl is full.

The saga continues. New carb gaskets installed, now carb is no longer leaking. Still can't get engine to start. It ran briefly with choke engaged but was only a "half-assed" attempt and shut off immediately when throttle put in run position. I don't know what to check next. To recap: carb is clean, solenoid is quick to open, spark is visible at plug, gas is gravity flowing, and flywheel is fully spinning. I also shot a bit of carb cleaner into cold carb, but didn't help it fire.

 

[woodstover]

The saga continues. New carb gaskets installed, now carb is no longer leaking. Still can't get engine to start. It ran briefly with choke engaged but was only a "half-assed" attempt and shut off immediately when throttle put in run position. I don't know what to check next. To recap: carb is clean, solenoid is quick to open, spark is visible at plug, gas is gravity flowing, and flywheel is fully spinning. I also shot a bit of carb cleaner into cold carb, but didn't help it fire.

Did you actually disassemble the carburetor fully and clean the jets and passages with carb cleaner?