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I inherited a non-running Murray Select lawn tractor (model 465306x8B). It's not in bad shape. Hasn't run in a few years and the word is it may need a starter. 2006 battery is at 5 volts. Just ordered a key for it and took some of it apart to clean. Drained the old fuel and pulled the plugs. I haven't done much mechanical work in my day, but if I knew what might need replacing, I'd have a better chance at getting it running. Is there anything that typically brakes on this particular machine that would prevent it from starting? I will plan on replacing fuel, plugs, air filter, and maybe oil (although doesn't look bad or low).

I'm aware of how ethanol in gas has been destorying small engines. Didn't see an easy way to take off carb to clean. Is this an issue.

Thanks.

Carburetor will undoubtedly need disassembly and a thorough cleaning.

Get rid of every trace of old gas from tank and lines.

New battery and spark plug(s). Plugs are cheap.

Check oil to make sure crankcase is not over full due to carburetor leakage. If it is, drain and replace oil.

That's enough to find out whether or not it's going to run.

If you do get it running, get new oil, oil filter and air filter and you should be set for a season.

cpurvis said:

Check oil to make sure crankcase is not over full due to carburetor leakage.

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Could you explain this in more detail. How do I go about doing this. What am I looking for. Thanks.

You would be looking for an overfull situation and the smell of gasoline.

Just change it and be on the safe side.

edit: I didn't see the comment in your original post about not being able to remove the carburetor. I would say, yes, that would be a problem but I am about 100% confident it can be removed.

cpurvis said:

You would be looking for an overfull situation and the smell of gasoline.

Just change it and be on the safe side.

edit: I didn't see the comment in your original post about not being able to remove the carburetor. I would say, yes, that would be a problem but I am about 100% confident it can be removed.

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I'm sure it can be removed. I'll figure it out.

Find your engine numbers on your engine and post them ... Model & Type will be enough ..(see my info on this post page )
Actually you have the same mower as I do ...EXCEPT for a few minor differences..

use this link for help...


https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na/en_us/support/need-help.html

The third most important thing is to replace the fuel lines.
If they have been sitting with old fuel in them for a long time good chance they will be gooey inside so all the good work in cleaning will be to no avail.

The test is generally do involves fitting an inline spark tester then squirting some starter fluid down the carb and giving the mower a spin.
AS you have a dubious starter you would find following this proceedure I wrote some time ago useful.

Before you start, pull the spark plug & try to rotate the engine by hand.
No use checking the electrics if you have a hydraulic lock, seized engine or jambed belt overloading the stater motor.
Assuming the engine turns freely.

I like to start from the starter motor and go backwards .
Do the following 5 tests, regardless of the results from any or all of them as there can be more than one problem and you want to isolate where the problem lies.
Elimination of individual parts is important so you know by the end, the battery, solenoid & heavy power circuits are all in good order.

1) try to jump the starter motor directly from your car or truck.
Starter turns = starter good

2) do the same directly from the mowers battery
Starter turns = mower battery good
No turn = duff battery, recharge it & try again.

3) check for voltage ( + 12V ) at the solenoid trigger wire with the key in start position
3a) same with ground trigger wire ( 4 wire solenoid ) or body of solenoid ( 3 wire solenoid)
( I like to test V from the battery hot terminal to ground terminal rather than ohms as they give funny readings )

4) leave ground jumper in place ( from step 2 ) & try key start.
Starter turns = power connection good but ground connection suspect ( most common )
Confirm it by trying again, extra ground removed
I run a secondary ground from the grounding bolt to one of the starter mounting bolts & paint over both with liquid electrical tape.

5) Remove the trigger ( thin ) wire / wires from the bottom of the solenoid.
Ground one & bridge from the hot terminal to the other.
Starter cranks = solenoid good.
Solenoid is not polarity sensitive, BUT THE WIRING IS so make sure you remove the thin control wires.
Note a thinner wire on the hot terminal is not a control wire. It is the main power feed to the mower.


From here on things become very mower dependant as starting circuits are getting changed all the time.
Basically the power goes in a loop from the hot side of the solenoid ( saves wire, no other reason ) through the fuse to the B terminal on the key switch then to the PTO switch then to the parking brake switch then to the solenoid trigger switch , easy peasy after you grow the 3rd arm. Use a test lamp and follow the power.
However a lot of mowers with a 4 pole solenoid, run a secondary ground control circuit to the ground solenoid wire through the lap bars.
Then to stop this interfearing with the normal safety function of the ground kill, it goes to a relay with the ground as the switched connection.
These are a PIA as the + control wire to the relay comes from the power loop above and the ground side of the control comes via the normal cut out functions of the lap bars.
Be very careful because if you have a system like this and accidentally send 12V down the ground loop you can fry the magnetos on some circuits.

Larry...
A few of us guys here are friends with this "Kangaroo-Kicker" ..( from Australia..down under)..He's sort of like a GURU to some of us and we hold him in high esteem & deep respect ... Bertsmobile1 is always there helping ...Boobala

Also.. go to top of THIS page ..
click on Albums (in the light gray bar under the FIRST green bar)
click on album gallery ... enter in the search bar .. my project ....check it out ... Boobala

Boobala said:

Find your engine numbers on your engine and post them ... Model & Type will be enough ..(see my info on this post page )
Actually you have the same mower as I do ...EXCEPT for a few minor differences..
use this link for help...
https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na/en_us/support/need-help.html

Click to expand...

Thanks. Here's my engine info. It's a craftsman v-twin. The mower also came with the shute and clippings collection system that attaches to the back end. It has three large plastic bins for clippings. 21hp.

Oh, having trouble removing one of the blade retention nuts. Put heat to it, no luck. It's now soaking in wd40. Is one of them reverse threaded.

Untitled by Larry Johnson, on Flickr

LarryJohnson said:

Thanks. Here's my engine info. It's a craftsman v-twin. The mower also came with the shute and clippings collection system that attaches to the back end. It has three large plastic bins for clippings. 21hp.

Oh, having trouble removing one of the blade retention nuts. Put heat to it, no luck. It's now soaking in wd40. Is one of them reverse threaded.

Untitled by Larry Johnson, on Flickr

Click to expand...

Blade nut is standard rotatation ...(righty..= TIGHTY ...lefty ..= loosey )..PATIENCE & using an "impact" wrench is the best way to remove ... AFTER a good soaking with ( P-B Blaster ) penetrant oil ( get @ auto-supply stores)
send me your e-mail address in a PM ... and I will send You an owners guide ( pdf-manual )
Murray NEVER made any service manuals that I've heard about ...Owners guide has limited info & parts lists but its all you really need ..... IF you look at the pics in my albums you can see these mowers are pretty simple and easy to work on ...

1 more item for you ...https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6NaqjIxWV1ySkZjTTA5TGltZEE/view

Oh yeah GREAT pic you posted !!! I forgot to say ..TAKE TONS of pics of whatever you work on ..REMEMBER :
these pics become YOUR manual and reference material.. it has saved me hundreds of hours in research and countless headaches ..you can always delete ... but if you dont have the info you face what you are going through RIGHT NOW !!!

Boobala said:

Larry...
A few of us guys here are friends with this "Kangaroo-Kicker" ..( from Australia..down under)..He's sort of like a GURU to some of us and we hold him in high esteem & deep respect ... Bertsmobile1 is always there helping ...Boobala

Also.. go to top of THIS page ..
click on Albums (in the light gray bar under the FIRST green bar)
click on album gallery ... enter in the search bar .. my project ....check it out ... Boobala

Click to expand...

Enough Boo.
I am just a bloke who tries to make a living fixing mowers and lurks here to gain the knowledge that years of experience have taught others.

LarryJohnson said:

Thanks. Here's my engine info. It's a craftsman v-twin. The mower also came with the shute and clippings collection system that attaches to the back end. It has three large plastic bins for clippings. 21hp.

Oh, having trouble removing one of the blade retention nuts. Put heat to it, no luck. It's now soaking in wd40. Is one of them reverse threaded.

Untitled by Larry Johnson, on Flickr

Click to expand...

If it has a side chute with a tube running up to the bagger then std right hand threads.
If it is a rear discharge with the chute running under the seat from between the two blades then one side had a left hand thread.

The bolts tighten in use and it is SOP to grind them off.
Once the head is gone thus relieving the clamping force on the threads they usually undo with your fingers ( inside gloves of course because it will be sharp )

Boobala said:

.PATIENCE & using an "impact" wrench is the best way to remove ...
send me your e-mail address in a PM ... and I will send You an owners guide ( pdf-manual )
Murray NEVER made any service manuals that I've heard about ...Owners guide has limited info & parts lists but its all you really need ..... IF you look at the pics in my albums you can see these mowers are pretty simple and easy to work on ...

Oh yeah GREAT pic you posted !!! I forgot to say ..TAKE TONS of pics of whatever you work on ..REMEMBER :
these pics become YOUR manual and reference material.. it has saved me hundreds of hours in research and countless headaches ..you can always delete ... but if you dont have the info you face what you are going through RIGHT NOW !!!

Click to expand...

bertsmobile1 said:

If it has a side chute with a tube running up to the bagger then std right hand threads.
The bolts tighten in use and it is SOP to grind them off.

Click to expand...

Boo, My goal is to get the mower running and functioning, that's it. I don't plan on making this a "project" or doing mods, so I won't be spending hundreds of hours working on it. I've got basic tools. I was using a cordless impact driver and breaker bar. May have to grind it off as Bert suggests. I own a grinder.
Thanks for offering to send the owner's manual, but I already have one. I'm old and understand the value of consulting such info.
The pic I posted was taken with my iPhone. If you want to see some of my better photos, go to the image that I posted and click on my name and it will take you to my Flickr page. Wildlife photography is my hobby.
I'm not "going through" anything right now other than just getting started evaluating this mower. My problem isn't lack of info, it's lack of experience.

Bert, It's a side chute. I've got a grinder, so may resort to it as suggested.

Got it Larry... If & when ya need help, ... just holler !

LarryJohnson said:

Boo, My goal is to get the mower running and functioning, that's it. I don't plan on making this a "project" or doing mods, so I won't be spending hundreds of hours working on it. I've got basic tools. I was using a cordless impact driver and breaker bar. May have to grind it off as Bert suggests. I own a grinder.
Thanks for offering to send the owner's manual, but I already have one. I'm old and understand the value of consulting such info.
The pic I posted was taken with my iPhone. If you want to see some of my better photos, go to the image that I posted and click on my name and it will take you to my Flickr page. Wildlife photography is my hobby.
I'm not "going through" anything right now other than just getting started evaluating this mower. My problem isn't lack of info, it's lack of experience.

Bert, It's a side chute. I've got a grinder, so may resort to it as suggested.

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Yep they tighten in use.
I have a 1/2" 3/4" & 1" air impact gun and there are still some I just have to cut off.
Hell them buggers can get tight
The 1" has to be secured because I am not strong enough to hold against it and still they don't come loose.
On site I have a 2' 4' & 10' length of rectangle steel tube I use to lock the blades and a 1" drive socket with a couple of breaker bars that can go 6' and again the same problem, they can get real tight.
The only ones that did not undo with my fingers once the heads were off were the World Lawn mowers and I no longer service any Word Lawn product as the owners bought them because they are the absolutely lwers price ZTR on the market and seem to think the servicing price should reflect the purchase price.

bertsmobile1 said:

Yep they tighten in use.
I have a 1/2" 3/4" & 1" air impact gun and there are still some I just have to cut off.
Hell them buggers can get tight
The 1" has to be secured because I am not strong enough to hold against it and still they don't come loose.
On site I have a 2' 4' & 10' length of rectangle steel tube I use to lock the blades and a 1" drive socket with a couple of breaker bars that can go 6' and again the same problem, they can get real tight.
The only ones that did not undo with my fingers once the heads were off were the World Lawn mowers and I no longer service any Word Lawn product as the owners bought them because they are the absolutely lwers price ZTR on the market and seem to think the servicing price should reflect the purchase price.

Click to expand...

The last nut came off easy after a couple of raps with a BFH. I'd like to treat the underside of the deck with something to prevent any further rusting. Any recommendations. I recall using a product many years ago that was supposed to do just that; it turned the rust black and prevented further rusting. I don't recall it's name.

Just to update everyone on my progress, here's what I've done so far. Changed the oil and filter, new plugs, removed, emptied and wiped out gas tank, new fuel filter, removed carb with manifolds(?), removed carb bowl and cleaned with carb cleaner, removed air breather housing and sprayed cleaner in choke area. Will pick up a new battery today.
As soon as the new key arrives in the mail, I'll give it a try.

Hey there Larry ...
BFH ... YOU had to be in military too!! Bet ya got an LFSD in that toolbox also ... ( LOL )

I think the product you are in question about is .. POR-15

www.por15.com

I used this on my 46" deck I'm happy with it after 2+ yrs.

https://www.pettitpaint.com/fileshare/product_pds/Rustlok.pdf

Boobala said:

Hey there Larry ...
BFH ... YOU had to be in military too!! Bet ya got an LFSD in that toolbox also ... ( LOL )

I think the product you are in question about is .. POR-15

www.por15.com

I used this on my 46" deck I'm happy with it after 2+ yrs.

https://www.pettitpaint.com/fileshare/product_pds/Rustlok.pdf

Click to expand...

Thanks for the link. That product doesn't look familiar. I recall a one-step process, just spray it on.
I wasn't in the military, just heard that acronym somewhere. Don't know LFSD.

I wasn't in the military either but I know what a BFH is. As far as LFSD, I'm going to guess "long....screwdriver."

Use a smoke wrench when all else fails.

cpurvis said:

I wasn't in the military either but I know what a BFH is. As far as LFSD, I'm going to guess "long....screwdriver."

Use a smoke wrench when all else fails.

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AHhhh yes ... smoke-wrench,= Torch ...?? ...also called flame wrench !

I have to be careful ... I don't want this thread to go off-track as like we got carried away in the
MTD Forum thread .... ( MTD YardMan Transaxle Rebuild ) THAT thread is on-going since LAST Oct. ....(our-Man-Cave ) ( LOL )

Boobala said:

AHhhh yes ... smoke-wrench,= Torch ...?? ...also called flame wrench !

I have to be careful ... I don't want this thread to go off-track as like we got carried away in the
MTD Forum thread .... ( MTD YardMan Transaxle Rebuild ) THAT thread is on-going since LAST Oct. ....(our-Man-Cave ) ( LOL )

Click to expand...

OK, I'll get us back on track. Are there any stores that typically stock replacement blades. I've checked the local big box stores and walmart, no luck. I hate ordering and waiting.


Untitled by Larry Johnson, on Flickr

Sears does, for their mowers.

edit: My mistake. I thought we were talking about a Craftsman.

edit 2: How about a local dealer? Input your zip code--> https://www.murray.com/na/en_us/support/find-dealer-support/dealer-locator.html

Might be easier to get the Oregon replacement blades. Part number 97-017. Or the Stens blades, # 335-050.

primerbulb120 said:

Might be easier to get the Oregon replacement blades. Part number 97-017. Or the Stens blades, # 335-050.

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I broke down and ordered from Jack's Parts. They're just a state away.

My goal is to get the mower running and functioning, that's it. I don't plan on making this a "project"

I have dealt with Jacks ...good place ,fair prices ...but was slow for me ...it all depends if the Co. is using a drop-shipper or a distributor in your area I live in Central Fl. and deal with (SJMparts.com) which has a distributor in Jacksonville ( about 1 hr away ) so I get my parts next day .. they have distributors all over the country and are praised for QUICK delivery & flat-rate ( was $9.95 ) ship rate ... great for many parts ..sucks for low-cost or few items ...BUT !! Check with LOCAL mower shops & hardware stores ..some ACE & TRU-VALUE stores carry mower items ( Generic ) but right in town ..?? It's the B/S Ship n Hand. charges that kill ya !!

Jack's doesn't use drop shippers (at least they never have with me) but they sometimes have to wait for parts to be shipped into their warehouse before they can ship them out to the customer. Common parts ship faster because Jack's has them in stock. Uncommon parts have to be backordered. If you call before you order, they can tell you which parts they have and which ones they would need to order.

Parts places I deal with and have good results ..

1. (jackssmallengineparts.com)
2. (equipatron.com)
3. ( sjmparts.com) ........ My FAV.
4. (ereplacementparts.com)
5. (partstree.com)

I have dealt with a few others with which I was less than happy ...but I will not bad-mouth a business in case they were having an "off-day" !! I just don't deal with them anymore !

Boo, you need to consider adding two others to your list:

Mowers4u.com

GreenDadeOutdoor.com

Boobala said:

My goal is to get the mower running and functioning, that's it. I don't plan on making this a "project"

I have dealt with Jacks ...good place ,fair prices ...but was slow for me ...it all depends if the Co. is using a drop-shipper or a distributor in your area I live in Central Fl. and deal with (SJMparts.com) which has a distributor in Jacksonville ( about 1 hr away ) so I get my parts next day .. they have distributors all over the country and are praised for QUICK delivery & flat-rate ( was $9.95 ) ship rate ... great for many parts ..sucks for low-cost or few items ...BUT !! Check with LOCAL mower shops & hardware stores ..some ACE & TRU-VALUE stores carry mower items ( Generic ) but right in town ..?? It's the B/S Ship n Hand. charges that kill ya !!

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What's the purpose of quoting me above. What point are you trying to make.

LarryJohnson said:

What's the purpose of quoting me above. What point are you trying to make.

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Well Larry SOMETIMES on this forum you get bombarded with suggestions (blades, oil).. for instance ... I thought
by posting that statement it would notify other members you just want to get the machine running as fast & cheap as possible .. at least that was my take in one of YOUR earlier postings ...Boobala ..

primerbulb120 said:

Boo, you need to consider adding two others to your list:

Mowers4u.com

GreenDadeOutdoor.com

Click to expand...

Thanks .. " Clyde "