what chainsaw to get?

Lawnranger

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Since you stated your intended purpose for a chainsaw, just keep the cutters sharp and the MS 170 w/16" bar should serve you quite well. Don't expect it to rip right through 14" logs but let it do the work and you will be amazed at what a little saw can accomplish. There are some good videos on youtube demonstrating the MS 170's capabilities and some folks push it beyond but that is not recommended.

I owned a McCulloch 3214 for years and that little saw out-cut many of the larger saws simply because I knew how to keep a chain sharp. I stepped up to a MS 250 when I was able to buy it 20% off and that translates to $60.00 off retail on a $300.00 saw.
 

m&p45

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Oh trust me I've been stalking the YouTube videos :biggrin:, but since my original post I've found out that I may drop a few trees (what happens when your buddys find out your getting a chainsaw) nothing to huge probably about 16" pines. I imagine the 170 can handle felling and bucking a couple trees. That kinda had me thinking about the poulan as well but I'm probably still better off getting the stihl since I'll probably never drop another tree with it after that.

Btw my friend that I'm dropping the trees for will be the one sharpening chains :laughing:
 

Popeye

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Soon as you get comfortable with it and learn to keep your head from directly over the saw. Get another chain or two. I have three. The chain the saw came with is probably a low kickback chain with a green link in it. Get one with the yellow link it cuts faster but will kickback. If you have to force the saw to cut or it starts smoking in the cut it is way too dull to cut with. You can ruin either the bar or the chain if you continue. As others said, sharp chains are your friend. My indicator on when the saw is cutting right is that I feel just a little pull on the saw as it cuts. Don't force it let the saw do the work.
My .02
 

Lawnranger

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Soon as you get comfortable with it and learn to keep your head from directly over the saw. Get another chain or two. I have three. The chain the saw came with is probably a low kickback chain with a green link in it. Get one with the yellow link it cuts faster but will kickback. If you have to force the saw to cut or it starts smoking in the cut it is way too dull to cut with. You can ruin either the bar or the chain if you continue. As others said, sharp chains are your friend. My indicator on when the saw is cutting right is that I feel just a little pull on the saw as it cuts. Don't force it let the saw do the work.
My .02

Another good indicator of chain cutter sharpness is what the cut chips look like. If the saw is expelling dust the chain cutters are dull but if there are distinct chips the cutters should be good to go.
 

m&p45

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Thanks for all the good info guys I really appreciate it! I've decided I'm going to go with the little stihl I'll let yall know how it works out.
 

m&p45

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Outstanding. Enjoy your new saw.

Thanks lawnranger! I'm sure I will enjoy it. I used it for about twenty minutes yesterday and it is perfect for what I need. I had to stop cutting cause I had to much stuff to burn :laughing: can't wait to get home today and start a fire and keep cutting!
 

m&p45

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Figured I'd give a bit of an update on my little saw. I went over to a buddy of mines house today and we dropped about 9 trees, 3 little oaks and 6 pines small to medium size biggest one was about 16" it was quite the workout... for me not the saw it ran flawlessly never skipped a beat. If anyone is in the market for a small "occasional use" saw I highly recommend the 170 :thumbsup: The best part is after all that as I was flushing off the stumps the chain was still sharp as new spitting out huge chunks

Here's most of the wood
 

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Rivets

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If you only use the saw occasionally, I recommend you purchase the Stihl MotoMix as your fuel. This stuff will eliminate carb problems if it sits for a while. Talk to your Stihl dealer about it. If you use it more offen, please use no ethynal fuel.
 
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