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what chainsaw to get?

#1

m&p45

m&p45

Im sure this question has been asked a 1,000 times but ive been searching alot and am still unsure what to get. First let me say what ill be using it for, I wont be dropping any trees that i know of, just trimming some trees and cutting up some stuff thats already on the ground nothing huge. it wont be used much, maybe alot at first but once i get caught up ill probably only use it a couple times a month at the most.

I did have my mind made up on a stihl ms170, but im worried it may be a little underpowered. The selling points on the stihl for me are that it does NOT have a tool less chain adjustment, price ($179), i have a stihl dealer about a mile from my house, and obviously the stihl name.

So i guess my question is should i go with a craftsman or a cheaper name so i can get a little more power and maybe a bigger bar, or do you think the stihl will fit just fine for what i need? id like to keep whatever i decide to get under the $200 mark.

Much thanks in advance for any input!:thumbsup:


#2

scott47429

scott47429

you wont find a much better saw then a Stihl or a Husqvarna although since your not going to be useing it alot then maybe just buy a cheaper saw like a reman homelite or just go with a craftsman


#3

P

possum

If you have alot of trimming to do and power is fairly close get an electric polesaw that the saw can be removed to use as a regular chainsaw. They are good little saws if you are careful with them. Most of the Craftsman saws I have looked at are Poulan. There is little difference between a Poulan and a cheap Stihl. The Stihl is close by, and has very good support with parts and repair, Craftsman has fair support with parts and repair. The difference in price is small, and the resale value of the Stihl is better. Buy the Stihl, but make sure you like the dealer first. My only gripe with folks that buy cheap Stihl saws are they get hung up on the name. Almost every guy I know who buys one for yard use ends up buying a Poulan or Craftsman for the dirty jobs they do not want to use that good Stihl for. So in the end they would have been better off to just buy a Poulan or some other cheap branded saw instead.


#4

Popeye

Popeye

I've got a Stihl MS250 and 75% at least of the stuff I have cut with it I could have used a smaller saw


#5

Parkmower

Parkmower

I have a small arsenal of saws including 2 stihl ms290, McCullogg Titan 57. Husq 345. Old big Sachs-dollar. A small top handle husq. And a poulan pioneer with 14" bar.
And though I love the stilhls and husqs. The poulan has never let me down. Ive dropped 10-12" trees with no problem. It's nice and light. And takes the abuse with only dull chains after. The chains are cheap for it so I have 2-3 to swap out and sharpen later.
Always sharpen by hand and every 3-4 sharpenings I'll hit the rakers too.


#6

m&p45

m&p45

Hmm you guys are not making this easy:laughing: as far as the electric saw goes I'm not going that route. I'll be getting a pole saw attachment for my craftsman trimmer for the tall stuff. One thing I really don't want is the tool less chain tensioner adjustment which seems to be prevalent on the cheaper saws :thumbdown:


Thanks again for the opinions keep em coming


#7

M

MBTRAC

I'd stick with Sthil or Husqvarna based on reliabilty/parts support/safety features- though I have no ownership experience with saws below 50cc - each are good brands, & each brand/moldel feels a little different in your "hand", so it all comes down to personal preference, dealer location/relationship etc ...IMO the Husky in small saws fire up far easier & their startup/shutdown controls & maintenance are more intuitive for operators, nothing against Stihl's it just seems small Husky's are just a tad marginally better in these areas (conversely I find in large saws the Stihl fitration system far better, staying cleaner in heavy all day applications)

As general recommendations, if possble buy a slightly bigger than smaller saw, don't be talked into too big a bar (with experience/thought you can cut at least double the bar length less c2inches without drama), make certain the chain oiler is adjustable,, for longevity get a bar with a greasable bar sprocket, dismiss any saw with a "quick twist" chain adjustment, nothing but trouble - stick with the proven screw/2 nut adjustment, run the saw on premium 2 Stroke @ 50:1 non-ethanol fuel/good bar oil/clean filters/& a sharp properly adjusted chain....& it should last at least c.10yrs+.........and if you are going to store for a month or more, empty the fuel from the tank & run the saw till out of fuel (2stroke fuel goes off very quckly & any aged fuel left in the saw will lead to starting woes longer term).

In trimming or any applications don't be tempted to cut from a ladder or above shoulder height, use a chainsaw only with both feet on the ground & if you need to go higher use a pole saw....the smallest chain saw is still capable of of inflicting serious injury just like their bigger brothers, & in some respects trimming with small saws you are more likely to encounter kickback, jamming ...etc...so take your time & use them wisely.

We own/operate many saws on our farms, & with 35yr+ professional rural chainsaw use & logging experience have tried most of the mainstream brands over the years & a few "throw aways" too....a sharp chain & a patient safe operator who plans their cuts will make up for most limitations of saw brands/models/size.

Good luck & let us what know you decide on, why & how you find the ownership experience


#8

Popeye

Popeye

This little saw right here is about perfect for everything but big trees. I should have bought one before they stopped making them and substituting plastic parts.

https://encrypted-tbn3.google.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQLaddOn6nYw-Ipf9QpO7RtMjq5wy1Ll5boSTpQWINP2MZwTDB15ZL-on8


#9

Popeye

Popeye

Re: The li polymer battery for your mower

Primo said:
Hi everyone , I am Primo. Our company is the supplier of li polymer battery supplier of China. You see, li polymer battery is the trend of battery market. Not only have smaller size, steady output ,but also the reliable quality. So it is the great alternative of acid battery.

To now, we have the ability to design and research any product you want. Wish a chance to cooperate with you.

Sincerely,
Primo
Jianlin Technology Co.,LTD
J-lin.tech1@hotmail.com
Click to expand...


This thread is not for advertisement purposes. If you want to offend some people this is the way to do it.


#10

lawn mower fanatic

lawn mower fanatic

Exactly.....he posted the same message in like 6 different threads having nothing to do with it!:mad:


#11

m&p45

m&p45

Yea I'm not finding the connection of gas powered chainsaws to batteries :confused:


#12

M

mullins87

MBTRAC said:
I'd stick with Sthil or Husqvarna based on reliabilty/parts support/safety features- though I have no ownership experience with saws below 50cc - each are good brands, & each brand/moldel feels a little different in your "hand", so it all comes down to personal preference, dealer location/relationship each ...IMO the Husky in small saws fire up far easier & their startup/shutdown controls & maintenance are more intuitive for operators, nothing against Stihl's it just seems small Husky's are just a tad marginally better in these areas (conversely I find in large saws the Stihl fitration system far better, staying cleaner in heavy all day applications)

As general recommendations, if possble buy a slightly bigger than smaller saw, don't be talked into too big a bar (with experience/thought you can cut at least double the bar length less c2inches without drama), make certain the chain oiler is adjustable,, for longevity get a bar with a greasable bar sprocket, dismiss any saw with a "quick twist" chain adjustment, nothing but trouble - stick with the proven screw/2 nut adjustment, run the saw on premium 2 Stroke @ 50:1 non-ethanol fuel/good bar oil/clean filters/& a sharp properly adjusted chain....& it should last at least c.10yrs+.........and if you are going to store for a month or more, empty the fuel from the tank & run the saw till out of fuel (2stroke fuel goes off very quckly & any aged fuel left in the saw will lead to starting woes longer term).

In trimming or any applications don't be tempted to cut from a ladder or above shoulder height, use a chainsaw only with both feet on the ground & if you need to go higher use a pole saw....the smallest chain saw is still capable of of inflicting serious injury just like their bigger brothers, & in some respects trimming with small saws you are more likely to encounter kickback, jamming ...etc...so take your time & use them wisely.

We own/operate many saws on our farms, & with 35yr+ professional rural chainsaw use & logging experience have tried most of the mainstream brands over the years & a few "throw aways" too....a sharp chain & a patient safe operator who plans their cuts will make up for most limitations of saw brands/models/size.

Good luck & let us what you decide on, why & how you find the ownership experience
Click to expand...

Good advice, especially on the operator that carefully plans out each cut - and subsequent path of retreat incase something unexpected happens. I now have a Stihl 041 with a 20" bar, but I've used a 16" Poulan to drop 28"-30" trees in the past.


#13

lawn mower fanatic

lawn mower fanatic

m&p45 said:
Yea I'm not finding the connection of gas powered chainsaws to batteries :confused:
Click to expand...
I know! Well it looks like "PRIMO" deleted his account!


#14

D

Dan_ZTR

Chainsaws....the most abused power tool to date!

It doesn't matter what brand you have. Keep the chain sharp, and out of the dirt! (Out of your leg for that matter!) A chain should shelf feed. No pushing, rocking, or leaning on it. If it's putting out dust, the chain is dull! A dull chain is tough on the saw! Chain tension is just as important. Too loose is just as bad as too tight!

Second. Don't expect it to run correctly if you leave fuel in it for months on end. After you're done using it, drain the fuel tank, start it up let it idle till it's out of fuel. Pull the choke and start it again.

Most saws are shipped from the factory running very lean! A two stroke running wide open without a load should have a burble sound in the exhaust. Once the chain hits the wood, it should clean up. Lots of YouTube vids on this. If you're running it lean, it's gong to burn up!

OIL. Use a good two stroke oil for air cooled engines. If you're only using the saw once or twice a year, buy the caned two stroke fuel. It will keep.

If you buy a cheep one, and follow the above words, it will last you a long time.

Check out www.arboristsite.com Good chainsaw forum.


#15

jimrs

jimrs

I have a Stihl and a Echo and both are great.


#16

m&p45

m&p45

Thanks everybody for the replies! but im still not sure what im going to do, so allow me to bump up this thread.

I have narrowed it down to

1. stihl ms 170 16" 30.1cc
2. poulan 20" 50cc

which one would you go with. i know there in different categories, but there close to the same price.
the pros on the poulan are big engine, 20" bar and it comes with a case. The down side on the poulan is its gas/oil mixture is 40:1 is it a big deal to run it on 50:1? im not wanting to have to different cans of mix. oh btw the reason for the big poulan is its the only one that dosent have the tool less chain adjustment. thanks again!


#17

Popeye

Popeye

Stihl 170 hands down. I would not run a 50:1 mix in a 40:1 machine. Some say you can get away with it by using Onemix brand premix oil but not me. Shop time and parts are expensive.


#18

R

Rivets

Stayed out of this thread until now because I didn't want to muddy the waters. Now that you are down to a Stihl or Poulan, I would say Stihl, but the synthetic oil, double the warranty. The little power you lose in the beginning will be made up in longevity and performance.


#19

L

Lawnranger

m&p45 said:
Thanks everybody for the replies! but im still not sure what im going to do, so allow me to bump up this thread.

I have narrowed it down to

1. stihl ms 170 16" 30.1cc
2. poulan 20" 50cc

which one would you go with. i know there in different categories, but there close to the same price.
the pros on the poulan are big engine, 20" bar and it comes with a case. The down side on the poulan is its gas/oil mixture is 40:1 is it a big deal to run it on 50:1? im not wanting to have to different cans of mix. oh btw the reason for the big poulan is its the only one that dosent have the tool less chain adjustment. thanks again!
Click to expand...

If you want a chainsaw that will last you a long, long time get the Stihl. If you like to buy chainsaws again and again, buy the Poulan. I call them Pull-on's when it comes to starting the engine.:laughing:

Another big factor is the weight of the saw. If you will use the saw for a few cuts here and there then weight will not be as great a factor but it you are felling, limbing and bucking, a heavier saw will fatigue you sooner compared to a lighter saw.

YMMV


#20

m&p45

m&p45

thats what i thought i would hear, i was starting to get swayed to the poulan for the bigger engine but you guys are right i dont want to buy another new saw unless its just because i want to not because i NEED to :laughing:


#21

L

Lawnranger

Since you stated your intended purpose for a chainsaw, just keep the cutters sharp and the MS 170 w/16" bar should serve you quite well. Don't expect it to rip right through 14" logs but let it do the work and you will be amazed at what a little saw can accomplish. There are some good videos on youtube demonstrating the MS 170's capabilities and some folks push it beyond but that is not recommended.

I owned a McCulloch 3214 for years and that little saw out-cut many of the larger saws simply because I knew how to keep a chain sharp. I stepped up to a MS 250 when I was able to buy it 20% off and that translates to $60.00 off retail on a $300.00 saw.


#22

m&p45

m&p45

Oh trust me I've been stalking the YouTube videos :biggrin:, but since my original post I've found out that I may drop a few trees (what happens when your buddys find out your getting a chainsaw) nothing to huge probably about 16" pines. I imagine the 170 can handle felling and bucking a couple trees. That kinda had me thinking about the poulan as well but I'm probably still better off getting the stihl since I'll probably never drop another tree with it after that.

Btw my friend that I'm dropping the trees for will be the one sharpening chains :laughing:


#23

Popeye

Popeye

Soon as you get comfortable with it and learn to keep your head from directly over the saw. Get another chain or two. I have three. The chain the saw came with is probably a low kickback chain with a green link in it. Get one with the yellow link it cuts faster but will kickback. If you have to force the saw to cut or it starts smoking in the cut it is way too dull to cut with. You can ruin either the bar or the chain if you continue. As others said, sharp chains are your friend. My indicator on when the saw is cutting right is that I feel just a little pull on the saw as it cuts. Don't force it let the saw do the work.
My .02


#24

L

Lawnranger

Popeye said:
Soon as you get comfortable with it and learn to keep your head from directly over the saw. Get another chain or two. I have three. The chain the saw came with is probably a low kickback chain with a green link in it. Get one with the yellow link it cuts faster but will kickback. If you have to force the saw to cut or it starts smoking in the cut it is way too dull to cut with. You can ruin either the bar or the chain if you continue. As others said, sharp chains are your friend. My indicator on when the saw is cutting right is that I feel just a little pull on the saw as it cuts. Don't force it let the saw do the work.
My .02
Click to expand...

Another good indicator of chain cutter sharpness is what the cut chips look like. If the saw is expelling dust the chain cutters are dull but if there are distinct chips the cutters should be good to go.


#25

m&p45

m&p45

Thanks for all the good info guys I really appreciate it! I've decided I'm going to go with the little stihl I'll let yall know how it works out.


#26

m&p45

m&p45

Well I pulled the trigger today and got the STIHL ms 170 I'm going outside right now to try her out :biggrin:

I'll let you guys know how i like it.
Here's a pic although I'm sure you've all seen one many times

http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums...-B761-3EB4102E95C2-20296-000013908C672C9F.jpg

Many thanks again for all the great input!:thumbsup:


#27

L

Lawnranger

Outstanding. Enjoy your new saw.


#28

m&p45

m&p45

Lawnranger said:
Outstanding. Enjoy your new saw.
Click to expand...

Thanks lawnranger! I'm sure I will enjoy it. I used it for about twenty minutes yesterday and it is perfect for what I need. I had to stop cutting cause I had to much stuff to burn :laughing: can't wait to get home today and start a fire and keep cutting!


#29

m&p45

m&p45

Figured I'd give a bit of an update on my little saw. I went over to a buddy of mines house today and we dropped about 9 trees, 3 little oaks and 6 pines small to medium size biggest one was about 16" it was quite the workout... for me not the saw it ran flawlessly never skipped a beat. If anyone is in the market for a small "occasional use" saw I highly recommend the 170 :thumbsup: The best part is after all that as I was flushing off the stumps the chain was still sharp as new spitting out huge chunks

Here's most of the wood

Attachments





#30

R

Rivets

If you only use the saw occasionally, I recommend you purchase the Stihl MotoMix as your fuel. This stuff will eliminate carb problems if it sits for a while. Talk to your Stihl dealer about it. If you use it more offen, please use no ethynal fuel.


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