Weedeater friction disc and friction wheel - worn out or ok ?

[donnybegood]

Hi again, and thanks for reading.

I need advice from those who have replaced these parts.

I have the transaxle and also the friction drive wheel assembly on the bench. The differential and some bushes and bearings will be replaced with new. So at the moment, I have clear access to the friction disc/belt pulley on the bottom of the engine .

The problem for me is I have never seen what these 2 x friction drive parts look like new. I have no reference point as to whether these have a reasonable service life still left in them.

Please check out the photos. The rubber -like compound on the friction wheel has a flat spot (looks like a bit got 'chunked' out of it at some stage) , but otherwise the surface looks like it has life left in it.

The friction disc on the bottom of the belt pulley looks shiny and feels smoother than I expected.

Could I please have some advice on this. I will replace both if necessary, but as these are much easier to get at than the differential removal was, I don't want to spend the money if these 2 friction drive parts are just showing normal wear.

Thank you.

 

[bertsmobile1]

It is stuffed toss it out.
Did not know they brought them in.
It will vibrate and make cracks in the bodywork everywhere and if there is a heavy load, just jamb & slide.

Considering the excellent friction drive Cox & Greenfields mowers that are made locally so have full parts back up and last forever, what made you get one of those things ?

 

[Rivets]

Please post the weed eater numbers.

 

[tom3]

I would replace that rubber friction disc, the steel plate disc will mate up real quick with use. But I suspect that rubber disc will cost some serious money, are you sure it's worth it? What is this machine actually?????

 

[donnybegood]

Please post the weed eater numbers.

Thanks for reading and offering assistance.

Its the Weedeater 1, (called a Mowcart McCulough in Australia). I misread this Weedeater Forum , as a Weedeater 1 forum . Probably dizzy from too much Googling on the matter.

The Friction Wheel is #532 43 72 -81 and the Friction Disc forming the bottom of the belt pully is # 532 42 83 - 01.

The machine is for a small level block for my Crohns sufferer son to be able to use, as the push mower is too much for him now. He's situated on an offshore Island which logistically makes my doing of any major repairs difficult, so I'm overdoing what's probably necessary in my mainland workshop before it goes over to the Island. Hopefully, it will only need regular minor adjustments, and keeping the chains tight (i.e replaced), as from what I've read, when a chain comes off and jams, things can break, like the differential shaft.....

regards,

 

[donnybegood]

I would replace that rubber friction disc, the steel plate disc will mate up real quick with use. But I suspect that rubber disc will cost some serious money, are you sure it's worth it? What is this machine actually?????

Have done so above, thanks tom3.
Regards,

 

[bertsmobile1]

Your last post worries me even more.
They are not a particularly good or robust.
On the up side there are lots of them on Gumtree for next to nothing so you might be able to pick up a few locally for parts.

It was designed to be a cheap mower for home owners on 1 acre or less, particularly old or obese people who have troubles mounting a regular mower.
Most RER ( Rear Engine Riders ) will also suit this purpose .
The Stiga is even worse and should be avoided.

Best of luck with it but don't hold any high expectations.

Do not sell the self propelled.
If you bought a good one they can be coupled with a sulky and make excellent units .
SP + sulkies are a lot more comfortable to drive as well.