Hi - I was given a nice HRB216hXA (SN 1050962) mower by a friend. He said the self propel stopped working. He is not very mechanically inclined so he gave it to me and bought a new mower.
Before assuming I need a new (expensive) trans is there anything common that goes wrong I can rebuild on the cheap? I have yet to take it a part. I don't mind spending time on it and I hope to fix it on my own.
With the HXA designation, that's got a hydro transmission, right? You might try looking into the adjustment of the cables or the condition of the drive belt. I don't believe the hydro transmission on the HRB is rebuildable, but it is possible to take the transmission out, drain the old hydro oil, and fill it with new. If you do that, use Honda oil, and see if your Honda dealer will sell you only what you need as it's pretty pricey stuff to be buying a full liter bottle when you only need a portion of it.
#4
robert@honda
Here's the troubleshooting chart for the HX (hydrostatic trans) for "Mower Does Not Move" and a few more detailed pages from the shop manual.
There are no service parts for the internal bits of the hydrostatic transmission. If there's an internal fault, the whole transmission must be replaced. P/N is 20011-VE5-710 ($266.64)
You can check the fluid level of the transmission, but if it is low, why? Is there a leak?
With luck, it may just be a failed/out-of-spec cable, worn or disconnected belt...?
Thanks for those schematics Robert@Honda. Good stuff to have.
I just picked up an HBR216HXA used. Everything works great except the drive. What I see is the cable does not retract when the handle is released. Huge loop of slack for a cable. When the handle is engaged there is still slack in it and the adjuster is at full so no room to take up slack there. The return/tension spring is not broken. Any ideas on this one brother? Thanks.
Thanks for those schematics Robert@Honda. Good stuff to have.
I just picked up an HBR216HXA used. Everything works great except the drive. What I see is the cable does not retract when the handle is released. Huge loop of slack for a cable. When the handle is engaged there is still slack in it and the adjuster is at full so no room to take up slack there. The return/tension spring is not broken. Any ideas on this one brother? Thanks.
Thanks to your great schematics and tech info I felt confident enough to disassemble and inspect without worry of parts flying loose.
It turns out the cable at the trans end had worn of the connector. Found the OEM part (#54630-VE1-W000) for my HXA model on ebay today for $20.00 with free shipping.
So far the only hard part of the job was the bolt in the recessed hole of the scroll skirt. The whole thing spun and I ended up having to grind the head off the grade 8 bolt using a tungsten bit in a dremel tool. WARNING: If you choose this method be sure to allow cooling periods so the bolt does not melt through the plastic composite material. Replacing with stainless steel nut and bolt with a nylock.
Of course I took the opportunity to sharpen up those blades and give her a good cleaning under there.
No to figure out why it wants to stall if you engage the blade drive too fast.
Thank you again for your assistance and the fast reply.
Hi - I was given a nice HRB216hXA (SN 1050962) mower by a friend. He said the self propel stopped working. He is not very mechanically inclined so he gave it to me and bought a new mower.
Before assuming I need a new (expensive) trans is there anything common that goes wrong I can rebuild on the cheap? I have yet to take it a part. I don't mind spending time on it and I hope to fix it on my own.
Thanks to your great schematics and tech info I felt confident enough to disassemble and inspect without worry of parts flying loose.
It turns out the cable at the trans end had worn of the connector. Found the OEM part (#54630-VE1-W000) for my HXA model on ebay today for $20.00 with free shipping.
So far the only hard part of the job was the bolt in the recessed hole of the scroll skirt. The whole thing spun and I ended up having to grind the head off the grade 8 bolt using a tungsten bit in a dremel tool. WARNING: If you choose this method be sure to allow cooling periods so the bolt does not melt through the plastic composite material. Replacing with stainless steel nut and bolt with a nylock.
Of course I took the opportunity to sharpen up those blades and give her a good cleaning under there.
No to figure out why it wants to stall if you engage the blade drive too fast.
Thank you again for your assistance and the fast reply.