I have a 2007 turf tigger with 27hp Kaw engine on it,will not start with switch but can jumper the the solenoid and will start. I have done the following replaced modgule and relay, checked all 4 safety switches and they are ok. I checked the switch and have a circut when i hold it in the start position. I am at witts end as to what the problem is any help or suggestion would be appreciated.
turf tigger want start
- Thread starter bartrak1
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sgkent
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first get the volt meter out and watch the battery voltage when you try to start it. Then check the voltage at the solenoid to see what it reads when you turn the key. If you have the proper voltage there then look to see if the ground circuit works right. If you don't have the proper voltage work backwards until you find where it is being lost. Someone last week had the same problem on their mower and it was a bad ground connection in an electrical coupling. Someone else had a similar issue on another mower and it was a broken, chewed ground wire. Get the volt meter out, get a wiring diagram and test to see where the voltage is being lost.
bertsmobile1
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Jumpered where to where ?
Try jumping from the + to the small terminal on the solenoid that has the blue wire on it
If the engine does not crank then either the + battery cable is bad or the solenoid on the starter is bad .
If that works then go one step back , pull the relay and jump battery + to the blue output wire
No crank = broken wire or bad connection
Next jump from the relay power supply ( terminal 30 ) to the blue wire
No crank = bad power supply to the relay
If terminal 30 connection is a plain red wire then it should be always live & you are looking at a bad connection fuse box to relay
If it is orange / yellow or red with a stripe then the wire is switched at the ket switch & either the switch is bad or wiring in that section is bad
If all this checks out good then the module or any of the feed wires going into it are bad .
My SOP is to patch ( fancy name for jumping ) each one of the safety switch sockets one at a time till the engine cranks .
The first one that allows the engine to crank will identify the bad switch
Try jumping from the + to the small terminal on the solenoid that has the blue wire on it
If the engine does not crank then either the + battery cable is bad or the solenoid on the starter is bad .
If that works then go one step back , pull the relay and jump battery + to the blue output wire
No crank = broken wire or bad connection
Next jump from the relay power supply ( terminal 30 ) to the blue wire
No crank = bad power supply to the relay
If terminal 30 connection is a plain red wire then it should be always live & you are looking at a bad connection fuse box to relay
If it is orange / yellow or red with a stripe then the wire is switched at the ket switch & either the switch is bad or wiring in that section is bad
If all this checks out good then the module or any of the feed wires going into it are bad .
My SOP is to patch ( fancy name for jumping ) each one of the safety switch sockets one at a time till the engine cranks .
The first one that allows the engine to crank will identify the bad switch
bertsmobile1
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Triple check that it is not the power supply to the switch rather than the switch itself .
I have been caught out by a broken terminal on the feed wire at the fuse box end more than once
I have been caught out by a broken terminal on the feed wire at the fuse box end more than once