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Need some advice.
Have a Turf Tiger Model STT61V-791DFI 61" deck Kawasaki.
About 480 hours.
I Have only owned the machine for about 30 of those hours.
Ok,
Today I had been mowing for several hours.
Maybe this is unrelated, but looking back now, I guess I started to notice what sounded like a rattling. I just thought I hadn't heard it before.
Wasn't real noticeable. Mowed like this for several hours.
All the sudden, the big black smoke came out of the rear of the machine & mowing was done for the day.

The deck drive belt that goes from the PTO Clutch pulley to the deck drive shaft pulley, was shredded.
At first I thought, "no big deal, just replace the belt."
I spun the drive shaft & I think that is ok, It's heavy to turn, but no binding or rough spots.
The PTO has me concerned.
With the key off,
I can turn the PTO pully, but it is rubbing & hard to turn, kind of like when you are adjusting drum brakes & the shoes are a little too tight.
So my question is, Should the PTO Pulley spin freely like a idler pulley, or should it have that resistance & scraping I am feeling.
No point putting a new belt on a bad PTO.
Thanks for the help.

http://www.scag.com/OPManuals/STT/2013STTOPMAN/STT_Book_03327.pdf PTO pulley should spin smoothly, no dragging, scraping, etc., sounds like bearings are worn out.

http://www.scag.com/OPManuals/STT/2013STTIPL/STT_IPL_Book_06255.pdf make sure your mower serial number is listed, otherwise search here:

http://www.scag.com/OPManuals/STT/STTOPMANTOC.html

http://ogura-clutch.com/files/pdfIMP/PTOinstallation.pdf just posted these last two for information, burnishing is very important on a new clutch.

http://ogura-clutch.com/pto-intro.php

Thanks mechanic mark,
That "how to install clutch" link looks helpful.
Answers my torque questions.

As far as removing the old part:
Is the center bolt normal right hand threads so lefty loosey righty tighty?
When I install, do I need to stop the crank from turning while tightening?
If so how?

Correct, right hand threads.

https://www.google.com/search?espv=...0.14.1027...0j0i22i30j33i21j30i10.CRuHzVzdZsY

or have a helper hold flywheel nut with socket & ratchet or socket & breaker bar.

Ok,
Job is done & I mowed last night for an hour & all seems well.
I did not torque the clutch nut.
My Ridgid strap wrench was not long enough to go around the Hydro drive pulley, so I just put some locktite on the bolt, & set my impact gun on the lowest setting & snugged it up.
I was concerned with snapping the bolt off from being too tight (nothing easy about easyouts..)
Time will tell If I found the sweet spot.

While mowing, I noticed it seemed quieter.
That bearing noise, must have been creeping up on me for a while.

While at Hollingers, I went ahead & bought a fuel filter which was the last thing maintenance wise I had to do on this new to me mower.
I took extra care to clean off the area on the hoses before pulling apart.
I like the fuel shutoff right after the tank, but a clamp pliers would work just as well.

3jakes said:

Ok,
Job is done & I mowed last night for an hour & all seems well.
I did not torque the clutch nut.
My Ridgid strap wrench was not long enough to go around the Hydro drive pulley, so I just put some locktite on the bolt, & set my impact gun on the lowest setting & snugged it up.
I was concerned with snapping the bolt off from being too tight (nothing easy about easyouts..)
Time will tell If I found the sweet spot.

While mowing, I noticed it seemed quieter.
That bearing noise, must have been creeping up on me for a while.

While at Hollingers, I went ahead & bought a fuel filter which was the last thing maintenance wise I had to do on this new to me mower.
I took extra care to clean off the area on the hoses before pulling apart.
I like the fuel shutoff right after the tank, but a clamp pliers would work just as well.

Click to expand...

Loc-Tite has it's place, but not there.

Don't forget that bolt will need to come off at some time.

John R said:

Loc-Tite has it's place, but not there.

Don't forget that bolt will need to come off at some time.

Click to expand...

Well,
There was some kind of goop on there from factory that I had to use a wire wheel to clean off before I re-assembled.
& I'm going to bet on my Snap-On MG725 to get it apart next time.
Time will tell right? :wink:

3jakes said:

Well,
There was some kind of goop on there from factory that I had to use a wire wheel to clean off before I re-assembled.
& I'm going to bet on my Snap-On MG725 to get it apart next time.
Time will tell right? :wink:

Click to expand...

Not saying that it won't come a part, just going to be a little tough. :smile:

Just like the blade bolts they will self tighten.
While the clutch dropping off will be expensive so will the bolt head breaking off inside the clutch.
Dammed both ways.