Troy Bilt Pony 2016 won't turn over

[Avman]

I usually work on push mowers but a friend needed help with his Troy built Pony
Model 13WM77KS011. With Briggs engine
331877 0142 B1. When I try to start it, it does nothing. I checked the ignition switch and it has continuity. No power at the starter. Found the start relay which was hard to get to, I pulled it loose and found a small red wire that was broken. See photo. I removed the relay and checked operation it works fine. What does the red wire go to and is that my problem? The fuse is good.

 

[StarTech]

Red goes the battery side of the starter solenoid and the other goes to fuse. Just verify it goes to fuse first.

 

[Avman]

So the small broken wire attaches to the solenoid on the battery side?

 

[Avman]

Red goes the battery side of the starter solenoid and the other goes to fuse. Just verify it goes to fuse first.

Ok attached red wire to battery side of solenoid, now it starts. But I have other problems. In my troubleshooting I found the intke valve Rocker arm bolt was backed out and Rocker was just hanging and the push rod guides were broken. Replaced the pushrod guides reinstalled Rockers and adjusted to specs. I cleaned the carburetor and installed a seal kit and installed a new jet as it was missing. New air filter and fuel filter. Started and it will idle, but only goes up to about 3/4 throttle before it bogs down and is running rich. Eventually got it to run at full throttle but as soon as you engage the blades it bogs down.

 

[Tiger Small Engine]

Ok attached red wire to battery side of solenoid, now it starts. But I have other problems. In my troubleshooting I found the intke valve Rocker arm bolt was backed out and Rocker was just hanging and the push rod guides were broken. Replaced the pushrod guides reinstalled Rockers and adjusted to specs. I cleaned the carburetor and installed a seal kit and installed a new jet as it was missing. New air filter and fuel filter. Started and it will idle, but only goes up to about 3/4 throttle before it bogs down and is running rich. Eventually got it to run at full throttle but as soon as you engage the blades it bogs down.

Remove carburetor and clean thoroughly and reinstall. Check to be sure choke is working properly.

 

[StarTech]

You did use the 796251 jet with its new o-ring and new bowl o-ring set assuming it is a Nikki carb? Unless you above 1500ft.

BTW those Nikki jets do get loose and disappear when an inexperience tech takes these carbs apart. Once they are dropped its nearly impossible to find them like tiny screws they love to hide.

 

[Avman]

You did use the 796251 jet with its new o-ring and new bowl o-ring set assuming it is a Nikki carb? Unless you above 1500ft.

BTW those Nikki jets do get loose and disappear when an inexperience tech takes these carbs apart. Once they are dropped its nearly impossible to find them like tiny screws they love to hide.yes

 

[Avman]

Yes new jet 796251 and o-ring kit. It is a Nikki carb and I have run it through my ultrasonic cleaner twice. I am in Oklahoma elevation about 675 feet

 

[slomo]

In my troubleshooting I found the intke valve Rocker arm bolt was backed out and Rocker was just hanging and the push rod guides were broken. Replaced the pushrod guides reinstalled Rockers and adjusted to specs.

Now, you need to ask WHY this occurred. Was this from plugged up cooling fins or simple threads backing out? Or both?

I cleaned the carburetor and installed a seal kit and installed a new jet as it was missing. New air filter and fuel filter. Started and it will idle, but only goes up to about 3/4 throttle before it bogs down and is running rich.

Do you have weak spark? Do a spark test AT NIGHT or very low light. Look for yellow spark, preferred blue or purple zaps. Rich running could be weak spark. Or someone been in there "cleaning jets" with an abrasive torch tip file. Spark should jump a 1/4" gap MINIMUM. Use an open gap style tester. NOT the Christmas light waste of time and money testers. Vary the RPM while testing for spark too. Might have okay spark at low revs. Then mid and high no spark or intermittent zaps.

 

[Avman]

Now, you need to ask WHY this occurred. Was this from plugged up cooling fins or simple threads backing out? Or both?

Do you have weak spark? Do a spark test AT NIGHT or very low light. Look for yellow spark, preferred blue or purple zaps. Rich running could be weak spark. Or someone been in there "cleaning jets" with an abrasive torch tip file. Spark should jump a 1/4" gap MINIMUM. Use an open gap style tester. NOT the Christmas light waste of time and money testers. Vary the RPM while testing for spark too. Might have okay spark at low revs. Then mid and high no spark or intermittent zaps.

Installed new plug and checked spark with pet-4000 tester. Nice blue/purple spark at 6mm gap although right at the tip of tester it was yellow. Re checked armature air gap at .010. Will run fine up to 7/8 throttle but at full it bogs down and exhaust is black like it is running rich. Choke is off