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Troy Bilt Bronco lawn tractor won't turn over or click

#1

K

ky1324

Turn key and no noise-nothing. Cleaned battery cables and post and getting 12.4 volts. Cleaned ground to frame to battery with wire brush. Fuse good. Wires good to solenoid. Solenoid resistance 0. Solenoid wires to switches good.
Key switch 0 ohm good S to B. Wire to Starter good. Brake, seat and pto taken off test 0 ohm.
What am I doing wrong? Where else do I go?


#2

B

bertsmobile1

check for power on the B terminal of the key switch .
Jump from the battery cable on the solenoid to the trigger wire.
Should trip the solenoid & crank the engine.


#3

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

Like bert said check for batt voltage at B terminal. If you have that and you have a wiring diagram you can work through the circuit. Put a jumper wire between the B and S terminal of the switch. Have this where you can easily pull it out if engine starts cranking. Now work through the circuit. Go to each switch in order and see where you lose batt voltage. All this assumes that it passed the check bert suggested to jump the solenoid to test it. Don't know you model's wiring so there may or may not be a relay in the circuit.


#4

R

Rivets

Here is another procedure to follow if you need it. Let us know what you find.


Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.

Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.

First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*

Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*

Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*

Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position q(you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*

Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*

Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.

After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.

Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.


#5

Tinker Ty

Tinker Ty

Jump from the battery cable on the solenoid to the trigger wire
Both Hammer and Bert are correct. This should give you results and a diagnosis to fix. Good luck.


#6

S

srobin

Here is another procedure to follow if you need it. Let us know what you find.


Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.

Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.

First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*

Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*

Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*

Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position q(you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*

Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*

Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.

After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.

Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
Good morning. I found this post yesterday. Troybilt Bronco. While mowing with 1/2 tank of gas, mower just immediately stopped. Had already finished 1/2 ac.
Good battery, solenoid and starter. Fused did not appear blown, while pulling out of socket, 1 leg stayed in, replaced fuse. Bypassed brake switch. Check continuity of starter switch, OFF: G to M good, ON: B to L bad, B to A1 good, B to A2 bad, START: B to S good.

Note: The headlights (blue/green) wires are not connected, I did find the blue wire shorted and stuck/welded to the motor housing. Now capped and taped off and secure.

Still no start, clicking, nothing. Thoughts?

Thank you, Steve.


#7

R

Rivets

You may have found my procedure, but didn’t use it. I use voltage readings to diagnose electrical problems, while others use different methods. If you give me readings I might be able to help you. We have no idea where a blue wire would go, as the is no standard wiring color code for these units. Also, no where in the procedure does it talk about testing the ignition switch, as most of the time they are not the problem.


#8

S

srobin

You may have found my procedure, but didn’t use it. I use voltage readings to diagnose electrical problems, while others use different methods. If you give me readings I might be able to help you. We have no idea where a blue wire would go, as the is no standard wiring color code for these units. Also, no where in the procedure does it talk about testing the ignition switch, as most of the time they are not the problem.
Got ahead of myself...again.

Steps:
1 - 12.47v
2 - 12.47v / 0v
3 - 0v at both terminals
4 - 0v
5 - 0v
6 - 12.47v

Thank you, Steve.


#9

R

Rivets

0 VDC in step 3 tells me you are not getting any current going from the key switch to your solenoid. You are now going to have to trace the wire from the switch to the solenoid, through the safety switches to find out where you’re losing power. If you post the tractors model number, from under the seat, I’ll see if I can find a wiring diagram.


#10

S

srobin

Thank you, see attached

Attachments





#11

R

Rivets

You cut off the most important part of the model number, first few things digits.


#12

S

srobin

You cut off the most important part of the model number, first few things digits.
That is all that is on the sticker...Bronco Model 13WV78KS011


#13

R

Rivets

Sorry, but my pad would not expand it. Wiring diagram in this manual. https://apps.mtdproducts.com/manuals/769-09472.pdf


#14

S

srobin

Thank you! I will be back on it in the am.


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