Troy-Bilt/Briggs Won't Start/No Spark

[NeedAFix]

I don't know how many times I have to report that I unplugged what I now believe is called the WIRE STOP from the coil. As I wrote earlier today, I first unplugged it from the coil on Oct 17. And, although I "should have had spark", I did not have spark until today and that occurred only after I completely removed the WIRE STOP from the engine.

About plugging the spade plug (?), I did not do anything to either end of the two wires. They were always connected as they had been from the factory. The only thing I repeatedly did when suggested was pull the connector from the coil.

 

[ILENGINE]

I see what you mean now by a run side...... Where does that spade plug go to ????? The bare end goes to the lil hook on the kill brake assembly..

If you are plugging the spade plug to a ground somewhere then that is a direct ground to kill the spark on the coil.....

It seems to me that spade plug is going to something the has a isolator washer or bushing that is worn out and making contact with the metal.......

Most versions have only 1 wire coming from the coil and it hooks to the kill brake assembly and when you release the handle the brake moves and then makes ground contact and kills spark to the coil.....

I would look real good at what that spade plugs to... That's where your problem was all this time.......

Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!

Most push mower engines only have the single bare end wire to the tab kill. I have seen the two wire setup on horizontal more than vertical. The bare wire goes to the familiar kill tab, and the spaded end goes to a tab held on with a bolt embedded in a square plastic push in insert near the throttle lever. More common on the old horizontal flat head engines with the tank below the carb, but was used on a lot of rear engine snappers with the vertical 8 hp engine. that tab/wire is used for remote on/off switch. When you replace the ignition module they will come with that two wire system, but only one is normally used, and I clip the other wire close to the connector for the coil to avoid possible ground issues.

 

[Boudreaux In Eunice La.]

Most push mower engines only have the single bare end wire to the tab kill. I have seen the two wire setup on horizontal more than vertical. The bare wire goes to the familiar kill tab, and the spaded end goes to a tab held on with a bolt embedded in a square plastic push in insert near the throttle lever. More common on the old horizontal flat head engines with the tank below the carb, but was used on a lot of rear engine snappers with the vertical 8 hp engine. that tab/wire is used for remote on/off switch. When you replace the ignition module they will come with that two wire system, but only one is normally used, and I clip the other wire close to the connector for the coil to avoid possible ground issues.

I agree with IL Engine... I have seen the 2 wire systems also and they are mostly on the engines you can increase and decrease the throttle and then all the slow is the kill area on the cluster...

I just made a video on the one wire system sinse I have an engine off the frame and on a temporary inside work table....

It's a overhaul job to do for a friend.... It amazes me how far a spark can jump... I have seen plug wires off the plug 3 inches away and it still runs.... You may have been jumping from the wire to the coil.....

When the video uploads I will post the link so you can watch it......

Plus Tard.........

 

[NeedAFix]

"the spaded end goes to a tab held on with a bolt embedded in a square plastic push in insert near the throttle lever", excellent description of what I was referring to, most probably wrongly, as the ground lead.

I'm thinking that tomorrow I will to reinstall the WIRE STOP to see if I'll be able to use the bail release to stop the mower. However, I will not connect "the spaded end". I'll tape that end so that it makes no contact. I will then connect what you described "the bare wire goes to the familiar kill tab" and see what happens.

 

[Boudreaux In Eunice La.]

OK the video finally up loaded.....

https://youtu.be/NbQxSWs85x8

 

[NeedAFix]

Success! All along the problem was not with the coil but with that second wire with the spaded end. I now know that the original OEM coil and the used (but known to be good) coil both work. And I learned that the aftermarket coil (from China) also works because I installed it today. I only connected the one wire to the kill switch and brake assembly and I taped the other wire and tucked it out of the way. So, the mower is running.

Thanks to everyone that assisted.

 

[Boudreaux In Eunice La.]

Glad you got it finally............. Now you have a lifetime supply of coils............. Just buy a mower that has the same type coil on it and you in great shape......