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Troy-Bilt 4 cycle backpack leaf blower has no high rpm
#1
Richie F
Richie F
Bought a TB4BPEC blower off of Facebook market place that looks new.
Starts and idles but that's it.
Came with a new carb (Ebay junk) and same thing.
On the OEM carb drilled out the main jet from .013 to .017 and I can get high rpm but not to spec.
Doing research I see MTD upgraded the carb number. It was #75305676A and now #75308025.
A dealer told me there was a problem with this blower but couldn't remember what it was.
Anybody have any in site to this?
Thanks
Starts and idles but that's it.
Came with a new carb (Ebay junk) and same thing.
On the OEM carb drilled out the main jet from .013 to .017 and I can get high rpm but not to spec.
Doing research I see MTD upgraded the carb number. It was #75305676A and now #75308025.
A dealer told me there was a problem with this blower but couldn't remember what it was.
Anybody have any in site to this?
Thanks
#2
StarTech
StarTech
First AC4 engine poorly designed engine. Tends to have oiling problems especially when used as string trimmer engine.
I would try adjusting the valves to see if that helps.
I would try adjusting the valves to see if that helps.
#3
Richie F
Running at high idle after drill main jet it sounds like ignition is erratic. Has the original plug, going to buy a replacement and test.
I bought this unit for $40 and found another one for $50.
There is a common problem with this engine that I would like to correct.
Seeing that this did run well when new and after X amount of hours it acted up, as others do also, could there be a loss of compression problem?
I'll have to check compression. Wish I had a leak down tester also.
Richie F
Have done that already, they weren't that far off to begin with.First AC4 engine poorly designed engine. Tends to have oiling problems especially when used as string trimmer engine.
I would try adjusting the valves to see if that helps.
Running at high idle after drill main jet it sounds like ignition is erratic. Has the original plug, going to buy a replacement and test.
I bought this unit for $40 and found another one for $50.
There is a common problem with this engine that I would like to correct.
Seeing that this did run well when new and after X amount of hours it acted up, as others do also, could there be a loss of compression problem?
I'll have to check compression. Wish I had a leak down tester also.
#4
Tiger Small Engine
Tiger Small Engine
A Troy Bilt 4-stroke backpack blower is a cheaply built unit. I no longer work on Ryobi, Troy Bilt, Craftsman, Poulan, etc. handheld equipment because it is hit or miss with getting it running correctly. Try to find a date of manufacture or ANSI year, that will help with how old unit is. May be down in compression.Have done that already, they weren't that far off to begin with.
Running at high idle after drill main jet it sounds like ignition is erratic. Has the original plug, going to buy a replacement and test.
I bought this unit for $40 and found another one for $50.
There is a common problem with this engine that I would like to correct.
Seeing that this did run well when new and after X amount of hours it acted up, as others do also, could there be a loss of compression problem?
I'll have to check compression. Wish I had a leak down tester also.
#5
StarTech
StarTech
Loss of compression is what killing most the AC4 engines here which causing by the oiling issue. I had them to run good cold and then fail hot.
#6
Tiger Small Engine
Almost without exception, every piece of handheld equipment (chainsaws, trimmers, blowers, etc. ) I have that are dead, are low/no compression. These are units that customers brought in. Low/no compression can account for 3-5% of equipment I look at. That number will drop considerably next year because I am no longer working on the cheap equipment.
Tiger Small Engine
Loss of compression is what killing most the AC4 engines here which causing by the oiling issue. I had them to run good cold and then fail hot.
Almost without exception, every piece of handheld equipment (chainsaws, trimmers, blowers, etc. ) I have that are dead, are low/no compression. These are units that customers brought in. Low/no compression can account for 3-5% of equipment I look at. That number will drop considerably next year because I am no longer working on the cheap equipment.
#7
Richie F
Richie F
Loss of compression is what killing most the AC4 engines here which causing by the oiling issue. I had them to run good cold and then fail
I'm confused here. I have a TB4BPEC but you use AC4. Are we talking apples to apples?Loss of compression is what killing most the AC4 engines here which causing by the oiling issue. I had them to run good cold and then fail hot.
#8
Richie F
Richie F
This unit isn't dead, it does run.Almost without exception, every piece of handheld equipment (chainsaws, trimmers, blowers, etc. ) I have that are dead, are low/no compression. These are units that customers brought in. Low/no compression can account for 3-5% of equipment I look at. That number will drop considerably next year because I am no longer working on the cheap equipment.
#9
StarTech
StarTech
Yes we talking about the same engine. The engine is just part of the blower.
And just because it runs does not mean it is not worn out. As I said oiling issues these MTD AC3 and AC4 engines is what killing most of them. I cringe everytime one comes into the shop as I know I will likely be wasting my time trying to fix them. One first thing I look for is if a lot is in the air cleaner which is blow-by of the piston rings.
And just because it runs does not mean it is not worn out. As I said oiling issues these MTD AC3 and AC4 engines is what killing most of them. I cringe everytime one comes into the shop as I know I will likely be wasting my time trying to fix them. One first thing I look for is if a lot is in the air cleaner which is blow-by of the piston rings.
#10
Richie F
Richie F
OK so an MTD engine is a AC4. Now if I need parts, like rings, I should ask MTD for part numbers?Yes we talking about the same engine. The engine is just part of the blower.
#11
StarTech
You won't find rings separately as MTD only sells the shortblock pn 753-08026. Again because oiling damage. Even with buying from my MTD distributor it still costs me nearly $100. And the time add some of my labor (I mean less half my time) it still cost the customer as much as a new machine so I just tell them go by another blower.
BTW it would be nice if we could get just the PNC but MTD won't sell the parts that way.
StarTech
Troy-bilt machines are built by MTD.OK so an MTD engine is a AC4. Now if I need parts, like rings, I should ask MTD for part numbers?
You won't find rings separately as MTD only sells the shortblock pn 753-08026. Again because oiling damage. Even with buying from my MTD distributor it still costs me nearly $100. And the time add some of my labor (I mean less half my time) it still cost the customer as much as a new machine so I just tell them go by another blower.
BTW it would be nice if we could get just the PNC but MTD won't sell the parts that way.
#12
Richie F
You talk of an oiling problem. Can you explain that more?
Richie F
I just got off the phone with Troy Bilt a.k.a. MTD and found out the same thing.Troy-bilt machines are built by MTD.
You won't find rings separately as MTD only sells the shortblock pn 753-08026. Again because oiling damage. Even with buying from my MTD distributor it still costs me nearly $100. And the time add some of my labor (I mean less half my time) it still cost the customer as much as a new machine so I just tell them go by another blower.
BTW it would be nice if we could get just the PNC but MTD won't sell the parts that way.
You talk of an oiling problem. Can you explain that more?
#13
StarTech
StarTech
Yes, the oil problem is caused by OEM using a dipper system and when you only have 2-3 tablespoons full oil the oil dipper is not always dipping into the oil especially when these are tilled a fair amount during operations. Other 4 cycle hand held engines uses a pressurize like system like the Matika and Shindaiwa engines. And of course there is the Stihl 4-Mix setup that just use a 2 cycle fuel mix to lube the engine. None of these three brands I ever seen oil failure problems.
Any who, I Got go to work in the shop as is Monday morning here.
Any who, I Got go to work in the shop as is Monday morning here.
#14
Richie F
Richie F
So a replacement short block won't solve the problem then?Yes, the oil problem is caused by OEM using a dipper system and when you only have 2-3 tablespoons full oil the oil dipper is not always dipping into the oil especially when these are tilled a fair amount during operations. Other 4 cycle hand held engines uses a pressurize like system like the Matika and Shindaiwa engines. And of course there is the Stihl 4-Mix setup that just use a 2 cycle fuel mix to lube the engine. None of these three brands I ever seen oil failure problems.
Any who, I Got go to work in the shop as is Monday morning here.
#15
dougand3
dougand3
It may run factory new if carb & fuel lines are good....for a while. Then you use it with an engine tilt and oil slinger/dipper doesn't splash oil. P, R & C are oil starved and start scoring - compression drops. I'm just a hobby mechanic but I've learned to steer clear of tiny MTD 4 strokes. Neighbors try to give me a non-runner - I say "Nope". Like Star says - if you want a 4 stroke in a tiny multiple positions engine, get pressurized lube. Stihl has the 4 mix but I don't see the advantage of 2 stroke fuel in a 4 stroke with the added weight & complexity of valves & oil sump. I've had good luck with Stihl & Echo 2 stroke - quality is there. I'v got 4 of them and they just run when carb is clean. Get one with carb trouble for free-$10.So a replacement short block won't solve the problem then?
#16
StarTech
StarTech
Doug, if you ever had you hand on the Stihl FS90, or FS130 (4180 engine) you know they are just about the same weight as the 2 cycles. Now I hated the old Ryobi 725R I had and it last exactly one year before it failed; plus weight a lot more.
#17
dougand3
dougand3
If weight not increased - great. I have 2x FS55 and run them hard. They just scream.
#18
Richie F
This does run to a point and since the answer is a piston/ring/cylinder problem I'm going to first use an additive like Lucas or STP in the oil and see if the engine "starts" to come alive.
This is just for my curiosity.
I'll take the engine apart later to get measurements off of the rings and see if I can retrofit something or maybe not.
I did find a seller on Ebay that sells a short block for $109 w/free shipping also.
Richie F
Thanks for your reply.It may run factory new if carb & fuel lines are good....for a while. Then you use it with an engine tilt and oil slinger/dipper doesn't splash oil. P, R & C are oil starved and start scoring - compression drops. I'm just a hobby mechanic but I've learned to steer clear of tiny MTD 4 strokes. Neighbors try to give me a non-runner - I say "Nope". Like Star says - if you want a 4 stroke in a tiny multiple positions engine, get pressurized lube. Stihl has the 4 mix but I don't see the advantage of 2 stroke fuel in a 4 stroke with the added weight & complexity of valves & oil sump. I've had good luck with Stihl & Echo 2 stroke - quality is there. I'v got 4 of them and they just run when carb is clean. Get one with carb trouble for free-$10.
This does run to a point and since the answer is a piston/ring/cylinder problem I'm going to first use an additive like Lucas or STP in the oil and see if the engine "starts" to come alive.
This is just for my curiosity.
I'll take the engine apart later to get measurements off of the rings and see if I can retrofit something or maybe not.
I did find a seller on Ebay that sells a short block for $109 w/free shipping also.
MTD,TROY-BILT,YARD-MAN,BOLENS,REMINGTON OEM 753-08026 SHORT BLOCK BKPK | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for MTD,TROY-BILT,YARD-MAN,BOLENS,REMINGTON OEM 753-08026 SHORT BLOCK BKPK at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
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#19
StarTech
StarTech
Now the FS55 (34mm, 27.2cc, 0.9 bhp) is a light weight unit and the FS90R (38mm, 28.4cc, 1.3 bhp) is a commercial grade unit (beefier components) that only is 1.3 heavier IE 10.8 vs 12.1 lbs. plus the FS55 only a 330cc fuel tank vs the FS90 530cc fuel tank, so course it weigh a little more.If weight not increased - great. I have 2x FS55 and run them hard. They just scream.
#20
Richie F
Richie F
Being this blower is a splash system are there ways to prevent the problem from happening?
This is a back pack blower and I would think not much tilting goes on compared to a trimmer.
This is a back pack blower and I would think not much tilting goes on compared to a trimmer.
#21
Tiger Small Engine
The term, “polishing a turd” comes to mind with this unit. You paid $40-$50 bucks initially, and are talking about possibly a short block for another $110. The unit is worth probably about $75-$100 all in used running 100% correct. If you want to satisfy your curiosity and experiment, have at it. If you want a good solid blower that will perform great, and run virtually trouble free for years to come, buy a Stihl, Echo, or Husqvarna.
Tiger Small Engine
Being this blower is a splash system are there ways to prevent the problem from happening?
This is a back pack blower and I would think not much tilting goes on compared to a trimmer.
The term, “polishing a turd” comes to mind with this unit. You paid $40-$50 bucks initially, and are talking about possibly a short block for another $110. The unit is worth probably about $75-$100 all in used running 100% correct. If you want to satisfy your curiosity and experiment, have at it. If you want a good solid blower that will perform great, and run virtually trouble free for years to come, buy a Stihl, Echo, or Husqvarna.
#22
Richie F
If you know anyone I need the air filter cover gasket and outside cover for it.
Richie F
I have a Husqvarna 150BT I've been piecing together also. It does run but spark plug hole needs a heli coil (which I have).The term, “polishing a turd” comes to mind with this unit. You paid $40-$50 bucks initially, and are talking about possibly a short block for another $110. The unit is worth probably about $75-$100 all in used running 100% correct. If you want to satisfy your curiosity and experiment, have at it. If you want a good solid blower that will perform great, and run virtually trouble free for years to come, buy a Stihl, Echo, or Husqvarna.
If you know anyone I need the air filter cover gasket and outside cover for it.
#23
Richie F
Richie F
OK here's what I did to make this Troy -Bilt run.
Changed out the oil to 10W40 that I had on hand and did the math of adding STP to it.
That's 3oz of oil to .6oz (one tbsp) of STP. Really wanted to use Lucas but at $17 a quart, nope.
The original main jet (Walbro #76) is .013 I had an extra carb so I drill that jet to .014.
Put in a new Champion plug #RDZ4H/979, had an original plug (Chinese?) #794-00082.
Let it warm up and it runs low and high like it should. No oil smoke and doesn't fowl the plug.
I hope this helps someone.
Changed out the oil to 10W40 that I had on hand and did the math of adding STP to it.
That's 3oz of oil to .6oz (one tbsp) of STP. Really wanted to use Lucas but at $17 a quart, nope.
The original main jet (Walbro #76) is .013 I had an extra carb so I drill that jet to .014.
Put in a new Champion plug #RDZ4H/979, had an original plug (Chinese?) #794-00082.
Let it warm up and it runs low and high like it should. No oil smoke and doesn't fowl the plug.
I hope this helps someone.
#24
Tiger Small Engine
So you drilled out a carburetor jet .001” (one thousandth of an inch), through in some thicker oil, and changed out the cheap Chinese spark plug to a Champion, and now everything is great. Hard to believe, but glad you got it running.
Tiger Small Engine
OK here's what I did to make this Troy -Bilt run.
Changed out the oil to 10W40 that I had on hand and did the math of adding STP to it.
That's 3oz of oil to .6oz (one tbsp) of STP. Really wanted to use Lucas but at $17 a quart, nope.
The original main jet (Walbro #76) is .013 I had an extra carb so I drill that jet to .014.
Put in a new Champion plug #RDZ4H/979, had an original plug (Chinese?) #794-00082.
Let it warm up and it runs low and high like it should. No oil smoke and doesn't fowl the plug.
I hope this helps someone.
So you drilled out a carburetor jet .001” (one thousandth of an inch), through in some thicker oil, and changed out the cheap Chinese spark plug to a Champion, and now everything is great. Hard to believe, but glad you got it running.
#25
Richie F
Richie F
Me too.So you drilled out a carburetor jet .001” (one thousandth of an inch), through in some thicker oil, and changed out the cheap Chinese spark plug to a Champion, and now everything is great. Hard to believe, but glad you got it running.
#26
StarTech
StarTech
Now I am confused.
First you drilled out the jet in post #1
"On the OEM carb drilled out the main jet from .013 to .017 and I can get high rpm but not to spec."
And then you said you drilled out a second carb jet.
"The original main jet (Walbro #76) is .013 I had an extra carb so I drill that jet to .014."
Why would only now going from .013 to .014 works when going to .017 didn't work?
First you drilled out the jet in post #1
"On the OEM carb drilled out the main jet from .013 to .017 and I can get high rpm but not to spec."
And then you said you drilled out a second carb jet.
"The original main jet (Walbro #76) is .013 I had an extra carb so I drill that jet to .014."
Why would only now going from .013 to .014 works when going to .017 didn't work?
#27
Richie F
.013 I had idle but no high idle.
.014 Was the jet size to run without fowling the plug and get full high idle RPM.
Adding a fresh plug helped also.
Putting in thicker oil with a little STP, more than likely helped with compression, though I didn't confirm that.
Richie F
.017 over jetted the carb, plug was black and couldn't get full RPM.Now I am confused.
First you drilled out the jet in post #1
"On the OEM carb drilled out the main jet from .013 to .017 and I can get high rpm but not to spec."
And then you said you drilled out a second carb jet.
"The original main jet (Walbro #76) is .013 I had an extra carb so I drill that jet to .014."
Why would only now going from .013 to .014 works when going to .017 didn't work?
.013 I had idle but no high idle.
.014 Was the jet size to run without fowling the plug and get full high idle RPM.
Adding a fresh plug helped also.
Putting in thicker oil with a little STP, more than likely helped with compression, though I didn't confirm that.
#28
StarTech
StarTech
This is why you don't get to aggressive resizing jets. You have sneak up on the right mixture.
Normally jet are in hundredth of a millimeter. But it sound Walbro might using a different system as #76 would had been .0299" if they were using a standardized system.
I would like to know the Walbro carb model number so I can contact Walbro about the jet sizing.
But would have thought MTD would be using a Ruixing carb clone of a Walbro.
Normally jet are in hundredth of a millimeter. But it sound Walbro might using a different system as #76 would had been .0299" if they were using a standardized system.
I would like to know the Walbro carb model number so I can contact Walbro about the jet sizing.
But would have thought MTD would be using a Ruixing carb clone of a Walbro.
#29
Richie F
The letters on the carb are WYLB. There is a number 413 and letters THAI or THA1 on it.
Larger Walbro carbs on say mopeds might relate to a #76 jet that is .0299
I'm a retired auto mechanic of 52 years and am familiar with jet sizing on different carbs, but I could not find a chart for jets for this carb.
I did find the Walbro original carb was a 75205676A and was updated to 753080025, these are MTD carb numbers.
Richie F
I've contacted Walbro and they were no help.This is why you don't get to aggressive resizing jets. You have sneak up on the right mixture.
Normally jet are in hundredth of a millimeter. But it sound Walbro might using a different system as #76 would had been .0299" if they were using a standardized system.
I would like to know the Walbro carb model number so I can contact Walbro about the jet sizing.
The letters on the carb are WYLB. There is a number 413 and letters THAI or THA1 on it.
Larger Walbro carbs on say mopeds might relate to a #76 jet that is .0299
I'm a retired auto mechanic of 52 years and am familiar with jet sizing on different carbs, but I could not find a chart for jets for this carb.
I did find the Walbro original carb was a 75205676A and was updated to 753080025, these are MTD carb numbers.
#30
StarTech
StarTech
Hmm it looks Walbro has change their website for the worst. It only list six WYLB carbs going from -1-1 to -6-1 and no ipls. Companies just keep trying to shove stuff down the good techs throats.
I was once to look up about everything for these carbs. Now it a major guessing game.
I was once to look up about everything for these carbs. Now it a major guessing game.
#31
Richie F
Funny I contacted Troy-Bilt to ask about parts for this and they said I could only get a short block.
Contacted MTD and it was the same place but a different phone number.
Richie F
You got that right.Hmm it looks Walbro has change their website for the worst. It only list six WYLB carbs going from -1-1 to -6-1 and no ipls. Companies just keep trying to shove stuff down the good techs throats.
I was once to look up about everything for these carbs. Now it a major guessing game.
Funny I contacted Troy-Bilt to ask about parts for this and they said I could only get a short block.
Contacted MTD and it was the same place but a different phone number.
#32
StarTech
StarTech
Don't you like how we are being treated as idiots? They get caught every once when the same person the phone although they claim to working for the other company.
And lately my sales reps have been lying to me too. Gardner changed their system back at the first week of the month. They said they didn't change my password, yet I could not login. After two weeks I finally got a reply from their support and they indeed changed my password but then I already used a password cracker to get in, And my Gardner sales rep is a Space Cadet too. On top of that they no longer have me set up as a Hydro Gear warranty center. Although don't matter other than they will not warranty any of the HG parts now.
Plus I no longer can download the current price files as the new system don't have them loaded for us that buy from them.
I beginning to wonder if it is worth the headaches dealing the distributors anymore.
And lately my sales reps have been lying to me too. Gardner changed their system back at the first week of the month. They said they didn't change my password, yet I could not login. After two weeks I finally got a reply from their support and they indeed changed my password but then I already used a password cracker to get in, And my Gardner sales rep is a Space Cadet too. On top of that they no longer have me set up as a Hydro Gear warranty center. Although don't matter other than they will not warranty any of the HG parts now.
Plus I no longer can download the current price files as the new system don't have them loaded for us that buy from them.
I beginning to wonder if it is worth the headaches dealing the distributors anymore.
#33
T
TobyU
It is complete waste of time to fix one of these when you have to take the entire thing apart and take the cylinder off and then replace the ring or whatever because you won't get that many hours from it before something else will fail again because they are low quality little turds.
So even if it's not a complete waste of time, it's not like you're going to get two or three years out of it and even that's being optimistic if you do fix it and get it running properly..
There are simply time bombs and you don't want to be the one having to deal with it or own it when it fails next time.
T
TobyU
Before you ever consider buying any parts for it like piston ring etc you should just wipe it down nicely and sell it on marketplace and take the first decent amount which I would say would be 25 to $50 from it and put that towards buying another used piece of equipment that's better or a new one.OK so an MTD engine is a AC4. Now if I need parts, like rings, I should ask MTD for part numbers?
It is complete waste of time to fix one of these when you have to take the entire thing apart and take the cylinder off and then replace the ring or whatever because you won't get that many hours from it before something else will fail again because they are low quality little turds.
So even if it's not a complete waste of time, it's not like you're going to get two or three years out of it and even that's being optimistic if you do fix it and get it running properly..
There are simply time bombs and you don't want to be the one having to deal with it or own it when it fails next time.
#34
T
TobyU
T
TobyU
It will only temporarily fix the machine now. It will not solve the problem as you will never solve the problem with these cheap Troy-Bilt backpack blowers.So a replacement short block won't solve the problem then?
#35
T
TobyU
That very common newer black plastic top Troy-Bilt 4 cycle carburetor with no mixture adjustments at all does not tolerate being drilled or even having a wire run through it..
You may get by if you carefully use a single strand or of copper wire to go through it but I have even had that make the jet too large and then it was over rich on the mixture like you mentioned it was the first time.
I have come to the conclusion that you should not touch the Jets in these carburetors other than blowing carb cleaner through them and compressed air.
Normally that's all you have to do anyways and it often isn't even the jet but just other gunk in the carburetor in the little check valve fuel pump action part of the metering block or the screen etc.
I use wires and clean out jets pretty much every day on larger engines let's say three and a half horsepower and up with no problems but the one that Troy-Bilt uses for these blowers and string trimmers etc is very delicate so I don't recommend touching it with any wire or metal at all.
T
TobyU
I will have to say for future reference, you should never drill the Jets in these at all.OK here's what I did to make this Troy -Bilt run.
Changed out the oil to 10W40 that I had on hand and did the math of adding STP to it.
That's 3oz of oil to .6oz (one tbsp) of STP. Really wanted to use Lucas but at $17 a quart, nope.
The original main jet (Walbro #76) is .013 I had an extra carb so I drill that jet to .014.
Put in a new Champion plug #RDZ4H/979, had an original plug (Chinese?) #794-00082.
Let it warm up and it runs low and high like it should. No oil smoke and doesn't fowl the plug.
I hope this helps someone.
That very common newer black plastic top Troy-Bilt 4 cycle carburetor with no mixture adjustments at all does not tolerate being drilled or even having a wire run through it..
You may get by if you carefully use a single strand or of copper wire to go through it but I have even had that make the jet too large and then it was over rich on the mixture like you mentioned it was the first time.
I have come to the conclusion that you should not touch the Jets in these carburetors other than blowing carb cleaner through them and compressed air.
Normally that's all you have to do anyways and it often isn't even the jet but just other gunk in the carburetor in the little check valve fuel pump action part of the metering block or the screen etc.
I use wires and clean out jets pretty much every day on larger engines let's say three and a half horsepower and up with no problems but the one that Troy-Bilt uses for these blowers and string trimmers etc is very delicate so I don't recommend touching it with any wire or metal at all.
#36
T
TobyU
T
TobyU
Glad you got it running satisfactory but enjoy it while it lasts or better yet sell it and make some good money.
You will not get years of good enjoyable trouble for use from this equipment or at least there is like an 85% chance against it rather than for it.
I have no desire to try to beat the odds with equipment like this so I would rather put my money into things that have a proven track record of dependability and longevity.
You will not get years of good enjoyable trouble for use from this equipment or at least there is like an 85% chance against it rather than for it.
I have no desire to try to beat the odds with equipment like this so I would rather put my money into things that have a proven track record of dependability and longevity.
#37
Richie F
I drilled the main jet because you can't buy jets from Walbro (I asked them directly).
You can adjust low idle mixture with a micro D tool.
And yes, if I could/can buy rings, I would do so to fix a problem. Oh the trudgery of taking something apart to fix it.
Being that I bought this unit for $40 and fixed it with a quality sparkplug and my time is a small investment to ask $175 on market place.
If it doesn't sell at that price I'll drop it, as I'm still ahead of the game.
Richie F
Sir I'm a retired mechanic of 52 years and just changing parts is not my style if need be.Glad you got it running satisfactory but enjoy it while it lasts or better yet sell it and make some good money.
You will not get years of good enjoyable trouble for use from this equipment or at least there is like an 85% chance against it rather than for it.
I have no desire to try to beat the odds with equipment like this so I would rather put my money into things that have a proven track record of dependability and longevity.
I drilled the main jet because you can't buy jets from Walbro (I asked them directly).
You can adjust low idle mixture with a micro D tool.
And yes, if I could/can buy rings, I would do so to fix a problem. Oh the trudgery of taking something apart to fix it.
Being that I bought this unit for $40 and fixed it with a quality sparkplug and my time is a small investment to ask $175 on market place.
If it doesn't sell at that price I'll drop it, as I'm still ahead of the game.
#38
T
TobyU
I too, cannot stand replacing parts and I was not aware because I didn't have a picture of the carburetor that it was a walbro so I did not know it had the adjustment screws. Those are far better carburetors than the newer plastic bodied ones that come on most of the newer 4-cycle Troy-Bilt products that have no fuel mixture adjustment screws at all and they don't really have a jet well I guess they kind of do but it's a little soft metal maybe brass looking but I doubt it's really brass cone like thing.
They are very soft and if you so much just touch them on the inside with anything you will make the hole too big so that's why I recommend people leave them alone.
All you really need to do is blow them out with the plastic straw on the carb cleaner can and compressed air.
So I agree with fixing things instead of just replacing parts and throwing parts at things but there are a lot of people out there who like to mess with things that don't need to be messed with.
I probably shouldn't tell you this but if you run into a situation on one of these cheap machines where you have the cylinder apart and wish to replace a ring... You can get them because there's a guy, at least there used to be on eBay that makes his own and sells them.
You can't get them from Troy-Bilt or MTD just like you can't get certain parts from walbro and it is a waste of time to ever call these companies.
I have this discussion often with people too or more or less my mostly irritated comments after they talk about calling companies and not getting anywhere because I could have told them that in the first place. Lol
So, it's not really that you can't get rings it's that it's just not worth the time to take one apart and put a new ring and something because even if you do get it running perfectly, it probably failed with under 10 or 11 hours of use on it in the first place so there's very little chance of it lasting long term even after you put the time into it to fix it.
It's one of those things like they say in life, pick your battles....
Well with some of this cheap equipment out there especially the handheld things, they aren't a battle worth picking or winning because there is no long-term win - but rather continuing to live with an annoying, problematic, troublesome, not durable, piece of equipment.
I simply call things like I see them and I've seen too many of these to think messing with them is anything more than beating a dead horse.
A better analogy would probably be propping it up on steroids but it's really never going to be a good racer again.
T
TobyU
I just hope you sell it and move on because it's not worth the time to do the repeated repairs that will be needed on that machine at least not for the amount of hours of you she will get from it.Sir I'm a retired mechanic of 52 years and just changing parts is not my style if need be.
I drilled the main jet because you can't buy jets from Walbro (I asked them directly).
You can adjust low idle mixture with a micro D tool.
And yes, if I could/can buy rings, I would do so to fix a problem. Oh the trudgery of taking something apart to fix it.
Being that I bought this unit for $40 and fixed it with a quality sparkplug and my time is a small investment to ask $175 on market place.
If it doesn't sell at that price I'll drop it, as I'm still ahead of the game.
I too, cannot stand replacing parts and I was not aware because I didn't have a picture of the carburetor that it was a walbro so I did not know it had the adjustment screws. Those are far better carburetors than the newer plastic bodied ones that come on most of the newer 4-cycle Troy-Bilt products that have no fuel mixture adjustment screws at all and they don't really have a jet well I guess they kind of do but it's a little soft metal maybe brass looking but I doubt it's really brass cone like thing.
They are very soft and if you so much just touch them on the inside with anything you will make the hole too big so that's why I recommend people leave them alone.
All you really need to do is blow them out with the plastic straw on the carb cleaner can and compressed air.
So I agree with fixing things instead of just replacing parts and throwing parts at things but there are a lot of people out there who like to mess with things that don't need to be messed with.
I probably shouldn't tell you this but if you run into a situation on one of these cheap machines where you have the cylinder apart and wish to replace a ring... You can get them because there's a guy, at least there used to be on eBay that makes his own and sells them.
You can't get them from Troy-Bilt or MTD just like you can't get certain parts from walbro and it is a waste of time to ever call these companies.
I have this discussion often with people too or more or less my mostly irritated comments after they talk about calling companies and not getting anywhere because I could have told them that in the first place. Lol
So, it's not really that you can't get rings it's that it's just not worth the time to take one apart and put a new ring and something because even if you do get it running perfectly, it probably failed with under 10 or 11 hours of use on it in the first place so there's very little chance of it lasting long term even after you put the time into it to fix it.
It's one of those things like they say in life, pick your battles....
Well with some of this cheap equipment out there especially the handheld things, they aren't a battle worth picking or winning because there is no long-term win - but rather continuing to live with an annoying, problematic, troublesome, not durable, piece of equipment.
I simply call things like I see them and I've seen too many of these to think messing with them is anything more than beating a dead horse.
A better analogy would probably be propping it up on steroids but it's really never going to be a good racer again.
#39
Glades Cat
Glades Cat
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