troy-bilt 19hp engine will not turn over.
- Thread starter funddy
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Edwards saw service
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reddragon said:
Oh yeah I definitely agree makes me look like an idiot when I mess up a post :-D
Edwards Saw Service in Glen Mills PA
What you have should be a Kohler Courage 19 HP inverted cylinder engine. The correct valve lash is .005 intake and .007 exhaust. These are set with the engine set at Top Dead Center of the compression stroke.
To be honest though it sounds like you have a broken ACR ( automatic compression relief ). This mechanism is a cam that is mounted to the exhaust cam and bumps the exhaust valve open at speeds less then 700 RPM or cranking speeds. Once the engine starts and the RPM increases the centrifical force keeps the ACR out of the picture.
Fortunately the cylinder opens from the top and only requires removal of the covers and flywheel to gain access. Try valve lash adjustment first then look to ACR. Hope this helps.
JIM
To be honest though it sounds like you have a broken ACR ( automatic compression relief ). This mechanism is a cam that is mounted to the exhaust cam and bumps the exhaust valve open at speeds less then 700 RPM or cranking speeds. Once the engine starts and the RPM increases the centrifical force keeps the ACR out of the picture.
Fortunately the cylinder opens from the top and only requires removal of the covers and flywheel to gain access. Try valve lash adjustment first then look to ACR. Hope this helps.
JIM
originalswampfox
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I agree with everything said about the compression release but are you sure it's not a battery/electrical issue. When I've had compression release problems in the past I could bump the starter several times in a row and it would finally get over the top and then crank. Just a thought.:smile:
Sure it could be a electrical issue. If you have a dc voltmeter do a voltage drop test. Start with the battery voltage, write it down, then check the voltage futher down line say the solenoid, it should be the same or very close. Then work your way to the starter, you shouldn.t see any sudden drops in voltage if you do you have found the source of resistance, like a corroded connection or broken wire.
If that all checks out you may have a weak starter. You never said if this was a new battery only you had it on a charger. Even a battery that shows a good voltage reading may still have a bad cell or be weak in amps. Take it to a shop that has a load tester or someplace that can test it on a load tester for you like Autozone etc.
Have you also eliminated the possibility of a parasitic load, if your drive or deck belts aren't suppose to be turning and they are thats too much load.
If that all checks out you may have a weak starter. You never said if this was a new battery only you had it on a charger. Even a battery that shows a good voltage reading may still have a bad cell or be weak in amps. Take it to a shop that has a load tester or someplace that can test it on a load tester for you like Autozone etc.
Have you also eliminated the possibility of a parasitic load, if your drive or deck belts aren't suppose to be turning and they are thats too much load.
reddragon
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on top of that good advise...i would reiterate about checking your battery cables for any nicks or insulation damage...ive had very tiny nicks in both cables touch to ground and cook a brand new battery:frown: