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Trouble finding a good 10w40 full synthetic oil.

#1

F

Fastrak1972

Owners manual calls for 10w40 but 10w30 is acceptable within certain temps. I've seen the Kawasaki oil but it is semi-synthetic and most other 10w40 full synthetic is of the high mileage variety. And other Full synthetic oil of 10w40 is motorcycle specific. I'm not sure either of the Motorcycle or high mileage is suitable for lawn mower use. So I'm thinking of just using 10w30 if I can't find 10w40.. Can anyone here tell me what they are using.


#2

sgkent

sgkent

what is your location as to city and country?


#3

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

What engine does your hustler have on it?
i think ams oil sells a 10w40 air cooled engine oil.


#4

7394

7394

Avoid Hi Mileage oils.. Bad .

Motorcycle oils are more appropriate for lawn mowers, as they are air cooled as well.

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#5

M

MParr

There’s nothing wrong with a semi-synthetic oil. The Kawasaki oil has high levels of zinc and phosphorus and better for your air cooled engine than regular automotive engine oil.
Some 15W40 heavy duty diesel oils have high zinc and phosphorus content. Shell Rotella T5 and Motorcraft Super Duty are two that stand out. Mobil 1 15W50 is a full synthetic that has high zinc and phosphorus content.
Kawasaki also allows for 20W50 in extreme temperatures.
In the end, it doesn’t really matter if you use conventional, semi-synthetic, or full synthetic oil. What counts is regular oil and filter changes along with good air filter maintenance.


#6

7394

7394

Kawasaki also allows for 20W50 in extreme temperatures.
That's all we run here on the new mowers..


#7

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

🍿🍿 Brought some for you, @Hammermechanicman


#8

shurguywutt

shurguywutt

You can get 4 qts full synthetic Shell Rotella 5w-40 at any big box store for $30. Should be more than sufficient if that is what your inclination is.


#9

shurguywutt

shurguywutt

Avoid Hi Mileage oils.. Bad .
Please explain?


#10

7394

7394

Hi-mileage oils have ingredients in them to swell oil seals & over time the seals harden & leak....

I won't touch them , that's for sure..


#11

B

bertsmobile1

Would you know what a "good oil" was if you slipped on it on your garage floor.
If you do then you are a rare beast indeed because 99.999999% of people have less than no idea about lubrication .
It is a lawn mower
Every aftermarket parts company gets a mower blend made for them
Every oil company makes a mower blend
The best oil is the oil you just replaced and the more often you replace it the better it is
Mower engines are lazy, low power low output low reving engines and quite frankly any oil would be fine if changed at the end of each season.
I use stens 30 for everything other than Honda push mowers that get 10w 40 and 4 stroke hand helds that also get the house brand 10W40 mower blend from my wholesaler
Even now most stationary engines have no oil filter and the same applies for the bottom end ride ons
I am yet to see a mower engine suffering from excessive wear due to using a low spec oil
The only oil caused problems I regularly see is because there was none in there not because what was in there was not good enough .
Most of the mower companies are now specifing synthetic oil in exactly the same engines that ran standard oil 5 years ago for no reason other than to comply with emission regulations not because the engine will blow up if standard oil is used


#12

sgkent

sgkent

I must be an idiot. First thing I thought of is where this guy is depends what brands he can buy and where.


#13

M

MParr

@Fastrak1972
This link is just a guide. It shows Kawasaki’s oil recommendations chart. The brand oil, whether it’s conventional, semi-synthetic, or full synthetic doesn’t really matter. What matters is that the oil is changed every 100 hours or at the end of the season. And, that the proper oil level is maintained. SAE30HD used to be the standard and is still a good choice. If you choose a SAE 30 HD, pick a designated small engine oil or SAE 30 Diesel engine oil. Air filtration is very important as well.
Kohler oils: https://resources.kohler.com/power/kohler/enginesUS/pdf/Oil_Sellsheet.pdf
Just a reminder; newer passenger car motor oil and heavy duty engine oil have been stripped of their zinc and phosphorus content. This was done to protect catalytic converters and Diesel particulate filters.


#14

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

🍿🍿 Brought some for you, @Hammermechanicman
Thanks. Appreciate it👍


#15

StarTech

StarTech

Currently I am using Mobile One 15W50 in all of the engines I service that have oil pumps. Or I use Kawasaki's 15W50. Both which have anti agents and are Full Synthetic oils.


#16

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

"My oil is better than your oil"

Just saying.


#17

StarTech

StarTech

"My oil is better than your oil"

Just saying.
Maybe but the semi synthetic with Moly that I used in my 2000 S1500 really increased the oil pressure as the moly heal the bearing wear. Now of course I have over 330,000 miles on the engine too.


#18

shurguywutt

shurguywutt

I only use purple oil cuz it looks cool and makes the rpms higher cuz it lubes better so my grass gets cut straighter. I can also go a decade between oil changes. Its $$$ but saves me alot in the end.

😆


#19

7394

7394

I can also go a decade between oil changes. Its $$$ but saves me alot in the end.
Whatever you think is best in your world.


#20

B

bertsmobile1

Way back when I occasionaly had to present technical papers I quickly learned that the less some one actually understands about something the more they argue about it
Oils and filters being the perfect example


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