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Transmission grease Metro 36

#1

R

Rickcin

I need to check the grease level and the owners manual says you need to unbolt the upper half of the transmission to change or check the grease level!

Is this true, you need to remove the top of the housing ?

Also, does anyone know the weight or type of grease that needs to be used ?

Thanks,

Rick


#2

EngineMan

EngineMan

Yes you need to take off the top....and the grease is Peerless grease (Part No. 788067).
If you need the info on how to do it let me know.


#3

R

Rickcin

EngineMan said:
Yes you need to take off the top....and the grease is Peerless grease (Part No. 788067).
If you need the info on how to do it let me know.
Click to expand...

I did read the manual and It explains what has to be removed, the shift lever and all of the top bolts. It also explains where the grease level needs to be. If there is anything else I need to know, or any information for your experience that would help me, I would appreciate you letting me know.

First question, do the bolts need to be torqued when putting the case back together ?

Help always appreciated!

Thanks,
Rick


#4

EngineMan

EngineMan

No just pull them up even


#5

R

Rivets

If you are going to pull this apart, down load a service manual from this site.
http://www.smallenginesuppliers.com...eh/Tecumseh_Transaxle_Service_Information.pdf

Be careful that you get the bushings back in correctly and that the cover sits down flush before bolting it tight. This is not a hard job, but if you are not very careful you can cause yourself a big repair bill if you mess up.


#6

R

Rickcin

EngineMan said:
No just pull them up even
Click to expand...

Thanks man!


#7

R

Rickcin

EngineMan said:
Yes you need to take off the top....and the grease is Peerless grease (Part No. 788067).
If you need the info on how to do it let me know.
Click to expand...

I need to get this exact grease ?


#8

R

Rivets

The tecumseh grease part #788067 is Bentinite, which is what is recommend by Peerless for their transmissions. I have cleaning the parts that have spent years in it, it will stick to any and everything. The only thing good that I have to say about it, is that I have never had a failure to a tranny that I have rebuilt and used it in. Wicked but good stuff.

Why do you want to pull the tranny? Is there a specific problem you are trying to solve? This grease is so sticky that the only time I have seen it come out of a tranny, is when the seals have gone bad.


#9

R

Rickcin

Rivets said:
The tecumseh grease part #788067 is Bentinite, which is what is recommend by Peerless for their transmissions. I have cleaning the parts that have spent years in it, it will stick to any and everything. The only thing good that I have to say about it, is that I have never had a failure to a tranny that I have rebuilt and used it in. Wicked but good stuff.

Why do you want to pull the tranny? Is there a specific problem you are trying to solve? This grease is so sticky that the only time I have seen it come out of a tranny, is when the seals have gone bad.
Click to expand...

Very good question and perhaps I should leave it alone, you tell me.

The gears work, however the reverse does not work unless you pull the mower back slightly then it moves but has no power and if you try to turn, slightest resistance, it just stops.

Also, going forward it works but when going down a slope it picks up speed and slightly seems to slip going up a slope.

The grease may be a non factor ??


#10

R

Rivets

Can you post the model number for that unit. I'd like to see exact;y which transmission it uses.


#11

R

Rickcin

Rivets said:
Can you post the model number for that unit. I'd like to see exact;y which transmission it uses.
Click to expand...

Yes, it is M3615 KA with a serial number in the 384,000 range


#12

R

Rivets

http://www.wfmfiles.com/download/Te...m_-_Transmissions_&_Differentials(691218).pdf

Download this service manual. You have either a 500 or 700 series tranny. The only difference is the 500 is a 4 speed and the 700 is a 5 speed. One less set of gears.

From what you are saying, I would suspect that the keys or gears are worn. If the rest of the unit is in good shape I would recommend rebuilding it, especially if you can do the work yourself. Now I guess you are going to have to make a decision on what to do.


#13

R

Rickcin

Rivets said:
http://www.wfmfiles.com/download/Te...m_-_Transmissions_&_Differentials(691218).pdf

Download this service manual. You have either a 500 or 700 series tranny. The only difference is the 500 is a 4 speed and the 700 is a 5 speed. One less set of gears.

From what you are saying, I would suspect that the keys or gears are worn. If the rest of the unit is in good shape I would recommend rebuilding it, especially if you can do the work yourself. Now I guess you are going to have to make a decision on what to do.
Click to expand...

I guess there is no chance the belts could be slipping ?


#14

R

Rivets

I wasn't thinking last night on my last post. Yes I would definitely check the belts. After I slept on your problem, I think that the belts are a more likely cause of the problem and not the tranny. Sorry for the bad advice.


#15

R

Rickcin

Rivets said:
I wasn't thinking last night on my last post. Yes I would definitely check the belts. After I slept on your problem, I think that the belts are a more likely cause of the problem and not the tranny. Sorry for the bad advice.
Click to expand...

Great, I really appreciate your advice. Like you, when my mind is at rest it works best.

Thanks again - Rick


#16

R

Rickcin

Rivets said:
I wasn't thinking last night on my last post. Yes I would definitely check the belts. After I slept on your problem, I think that the belts are a more likely cause of the problem and not the tranny. Sorry for the bad advice.
Click to expand...

Now that we think I need to tighten the drive wheel belts, how is this done ?


#17

R

Rivets

First check to see the condition of the belt, it may be stretched or worn. How long have they been on? There is an idler under there to keep the belt tight. Make sure that it is free moving.


#18

R

Rickcin

Rivets said:
First check to see the condition of the belt, it may be stretched or worn. How long have they been on? There is an idler under there to keep the belt tight. Make sure that it is free moving.
Click to expand...

The two belts are brand new, we just installed them a few weeks ago. How do I go about checking the tension and then adjusting it ?


#19

R

Rivets

You have to get under the frame and find the idler pulley. This pulley puts the tension on the belt.


#20

R

Rickcin

Rivets said:
You have to get under the frame and find the idler pulley. This pulley puts the tension on the belt.
Click to expand...

How do you determine the correct tension ?


#21

R

Rivets

Normal belt defection of a 1/2" belt would be able 1/4".


#22

R

Rickcin

I took a look under the housing and a careful look at the drive belts and I do not see any way to adjust the tension. It appears the shafts come out of the transmission to the pulley and then the belt continues to a pulley that is attached to the axle and wheel.

How would I tighten the belt?


#23

R

Rivets

This service manual should help. Check section 3.8.5 3.8.6 and 5.2.14.
http://www.exmark.com/pdfs/850610.pdf


#24

R

Rickcin

Rivets said:
This service manual should help. Check section 3.8.5 3.8.6 and 5.2.14.
http://www.exmark.com/pdfs/850610.pdf
Click to expand...

You are good my friend, thank you so much and I will let you know how I make out. At least I am now on the right track, the belts, not the transmission!


#25

R

Rickcin

Rivets said:
This service manual should help. Check section 3.8.5 3.8.6 and 5.2.14.
http://www.exmark.com/pdfs/850610.pdf
Click to expand...
I read the manual and made adjustments as noted.
The travel gears seem to work fine however when going down a slope the mower picks up speed, so I believe that means tha belts are slipping?
I do not know how I could tighten the tension on the belts?


#26

EngineMan

EngineMan

Think you will find that on page 31


#27

R

Rickcin

EngineMan said:
Think you will find that on page 31
Click to expand...
I did read about the A,B,C bolt placements but while reading, I also have no extreme conditions, the yard is a very gentle slope. The bolt relocations are listed as more severe and most severe circumstances.

I guess I should try one of those ?


#28

R

Rivets

Those are the only adjustments left.


#29

R

Rickcin

Rivets said:
Those are the only adjustments left.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the confirmation, often times I feel like I am missing something!


#30

H

hokiefoursome

Gents,
I have this mower and have the same symptoms...the reverse is "designed" to make you pull it...supposedly it won't back over you...from day one I could never make it back up a hill, kinda did a half moon and used forward to go back up any hills...
and it indeed freewheels down hill...I bought this 10+ years ago but it was another 25% to get a tranny that was direct drive/ didn't free wheel...I am presently mulching oak leaves in the back yard, steep hill and mine has begun to seem like more a push mower than a walk behind! ...dust/ dirt on the DRIVE belts I suppose...
Check with your dealer, mine explained the freewheel and the back up part as cons to the Metro, with a much smaller price than the Hydro trannys being the pro.......
bob


#31

lawn mower fanatic

lawn mower fanatic

hokiefoursome said:
Gents,
I have this mower and have the same symptoms...the reverse is "designed" to make you pull it...supposedly it won't back over you...from day one I could never make it back up a hill, kinda did a half moon and used forward to go back up any hills...
and it indeed freewheels down hill...I bought this 10+ years ago but it was another 25% to get a tranny that was direct drive/ didn't free wheel...I am presently mulching oak leaves in the back yard, steep hill and mine has begun to seem like more a push mower than a walk behind! ...dust/ dirt on the DRIVE belts I suppose...
Check with your dealer, mine explained the freewheel and the back up part as cons to the Metro, with a much smaller price than the Hydro trannys being the pro.......
bob
Click to expand...

Thanks for your insight and WELCOME to LawnMowerForum, Bob! :smile: :welcome:


#32

R

Rivets

Did you look at the service manual posted in #23?


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