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Hi, manual says for the two 14 mm bolts to tighten to 36-43 ft lbs when installing blades. Is a torque wrench necessary? Don't have much need for one other than this and perhaps when changing spark plugs. Any suggestions which torque wrench to purchase ... 3/8' or 1/2", brand, range? Assume don't want one with too high of an upper number as it may not be all that accurate at 40 ft lbs. Thanks

Get an inexpensive one in 3/8". With a 36-43 ft/lb variance, it does not need to be an accurate, high-end torque wrench.

Most DIYers around here go to the local auto parts store and get one for free. Put $20 down, take the wrench home and do the job. When they return it get their $20 back.

I found (in the last year) great deals on Used Snap-On Torque Wrenches (Ft-Lb) 3/8" and 1/2" drives on Ebay. GearWrench Torque Wrenches are good as well. If you are young and plan to have your Honda lawn mower for the rest of your life, why not buy a good quality Torque Wrench. I also bought a 3/8" drive GearWrench Torque Wrench in (In-Lb) because I rebuild Honda lawn mower engines.

PJS1 said:

Hi, manual says for the two 14 mm bolts to tighten to 36-43 ft lbs when installing blades. Is a torque wrench necessary? Don't have much need for one other than this and perhaps when changing spark plugs. Any suggestions which torque wrench to purchase ... 3/8' or 1/2", brand, range? Assume don't want one with too high of an upper number as it may not be all that accurate at 40 ft lbs. Thanks

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add never seize to the bolt threads and just put it good and tight until it stops turning, DO NOT TRY TO TIGHTEN IT SUPER TIGHT or you may not be able to get it off next time

i use an impact gun and it makes this job easy peasy, best money you ever spent and if you ever need to remove the crank pulley its mandatory to have one in my book

Once you've used a torque wrench a couple times to tighten a nut to 36 to 43 ft-lb, you won't need it again. Your arm will tell you. So don't waste your money on a good one unless you've got other uses for it.

PJS1 said:

Hi, manual says for the two 14 mm bolts to tighten to 36-43 ft lbs when installing blades. Is a torque wrench necessary? Don't have much need for one other than this and perhaps when changing spark plugs. Any suggestions which torque wrench to purchase ... 3/8' or 1/2", brand, range? Assume don't want one with too high of an upper number as it may not be all that accurate at 40 ft lbs. Thanks

Click to expand...

Only if you want things done right. Clicker Torque wrenches are not that expensive but you do need give up either a couple of cancer sticks or a couple six packs of beer. HFT has them for under $15 in the USA. Mine actually cost 9.95 ea when they were on sale. I got 3 LH (1/4", 3/8", and 1/2") and 4 RH (1/4", 3/8", 1/2", and 3/4"). And so far only had to replace one RH wrench. So far I haven't needed a 3/4 LH one.

Do you really want the blade to come off at full throttle because undertighten or overtighten them. Or you could as one customer did here, just duct tape the blade on.

You don't need a torque wrench, though that's an awful tight bolt! Most fasteners with a 14mm head (9/16") will require about 18 Ft/lbs. Me? I use a Ryobi 1/2" impact wrench for my blades and as someone mentioned earlier, I use anti-seize on the bolts.

Really no need for anti sieze, the bolt threads never ever rust tight.
In use the bolts self tighten which is what you want them to do so when it comes time to take them off they are overtightened.
Applying grease or never sieze to the threads will just allow the bolts to tighten even more
About 3 or 4 times a year I need to cut a head off.
Once gone the rest of the bolt always unscrews with fingers.

On this particular Honda it is a two bolt system so centripetal force would not be in play. But I do agree on not using antiseize as greatly reduces the torque values and if standard recommended torque is applied with antiseize the screw will be over torqued and possibly stretched to the breaking point.

bertsmobile1 said:

About 3 or 4 times a year I need to cut a head off.

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You've got me beat by "3 or 4 times a year". Yeah, anti-seize is good stuff. Either aluminum, lead or copper based, it does a superior job of preventing rust and/or galling.