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I am sorry if this is in the wrong forum, or web site for that matter, but I don't know where else to ask it. This is still on the same project as the 11hp Briggs question, an old Heald Hauler 3 wheeler. Now that I have the engine going, i need to work on the old crusty (rusty) brake lines, but my question for you guys, is on the Torque Converter drive. I have looked the Heald manual over several times and see references to when the belt might be too loose or too tight, but nothing giving me an idea of an adjustment setting for starting tension. Should the belt be loose when the engines off, or slightly loose or what? Any suggestions?

Thanks again guys.

The belt sits pretty loose on most pieces if equipment when the engine is not running. I don't know about your piece of equipment directly, but It sits loose on 4 wheelers, gators, and go carts. which is basically the same system.

How does it pull when the engine is running. Smoothly, with good pull, or jumpy and slipping.

:smile: The belt should be loose and the driver free wheeling when starting. I would suspect, after sitting around the driver needs cleaned, as it may not be opening all the way to allow slack in the belt. Also when cleaning the driver make sure the brass bushing is turning free and do not use any oil or grease to lube the driver. You may want to replace the belt, as it is probably dry and brittle from sitting.

The first question would be what type of Torque converter do you have? CVT like on a ATV or snowmobile,
Hydraulic like in a car, mechanical like in a go-cart, There are different style torque converters which all work
different and would take different belt tension.

Its a mechanical, there are no hydraulics. The manual says to lube it periodically, and I have not done that just yet. It works like the one on my go kart but I wasnt sure they were all set up the same. I have the final drive chain off to soak in oil cause it was very rusted, so it was allowing the belt to spin with no load on it, thus spinning the gearbox as well. The belt thus far looks surprisingly good.

handirifle said:

Its a mechanical, there are no hydraulics. The manual says to lube it periodically, and I have not done that just yet. It works like the one on my go kart but I wasnt sure they were all set up the same. I have the final drive chain off to soak in oil cause it was very rusted, so it was allowing the belt to spin with no load on it, thus spinning the gearbox as well. The belt thus far looks surprisingly good.

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If it is a go cart type the drive is on the engine and as you bring the RPMs up weights move out and the clutch (small set of brake shoes) tighten agance a drum that drives the belt. The belt tension you would want tight all the time with about a 1/2 in. of flex in the belt.

reynoldston said:

If it is a go cart type the drive is on the engine and as you bring the RPMs up weights move out and the clutch (small set of brake shoes) tighten agance a drum that drives the belt. The belt tension you would want tight all the time with about a 1/2 in. of flex in the belt.

Click to expand...

This one sits on the engine, and drives a gear box (forward/reverse) that drives the rear axle with a chain.

Its all a guessing game as to what you have. If you have a way, sent some pictures? Would like to see the complete outfit also.

I will take some pics tomorrow and post them in the evening.

OK a day late, but not a dollar short :biggrin:, sorry a little attempt at humor.

I got the pictures, so I will post them now.

First is the Hauler rear sticker so you see the company logo.



Then the whole thing, with bed closed and seat down. The bed is a dump bed and the seat lifts up for engine access.



Next the torque converter from above. Hope this helps identify it.



A close up of the engine part of the converter



Next the whole drive train, minus the brakes. I took them off to TRY to repair them, but am not too optimistic. As you can see from the ever present rust on the truck, it sat outside for a LONG time. The drive belt IS cracked quite a bit on the inside, once I looked closer.

I took it for a spin today, sans brakes, and glad to report everything else works great. The belt actually is adjusted just fine as is, so when I replace the belt it will be adjusted like it is now.

I plan on doing some sanding and adding a coat of red spray paint to it before turning it back over to the owner.

:smile: I just noticed the pictures. that is a neat looking rig. How about some pictures after painting?

Will do, and I have found a source, I hope, for the brake parts needed Power Tec Replacement Parts | Kimball Hauler | Heald Hauler | Chi Products | Haulmaster Hauler | Pug | Super Bronc | Trail Bronc | Heald Hauler Parts | Super Bronc Parts | Super Tryke Parts | Haulmaster Hauler Parts, I will start the cleanup when the mechanicals are all complete.

The picture tells a lot for your torque converter. What you have is a continuously variable transmission (CVT). What you don't have is a mechanical torque converter which is used in a go-cart. This transmission is being used more all the time, in ATVs, snowmobiles, and modern cars. The reason they use them are because they are cheap to make, very little to go wrong in repairs, and they are very efficient. I can see them becoming the transmission of the future. I see you have a Comet torque converter which they still are making and selling today. There isn't too much as to belt adjustment other then pulley alignment. The belt tightens as the engine RPM come up. There are some very good Internet sites to look at if you want to know how this transmission works.

Well now I'm a bit (more?) confused. You call the Comet a torque converter, yet say it's a CVT, unlike gokarts. My Gokart torque converter works almost exactly the same way, in that the front (engine) pulley dia totally adjusts to engine speed, as it seems like this one does. Am I missing something? Maybe I am misunderstanding your meaning.

The gearbox that the belt drives, is a FWD/REV box only. It doesn't alter any speeds or change ratios.

Well now I'm a bit (more?) confused. You call the Comet a torque converter, yet say it's a CVT, unlike gokarts. My Gokart torque converter works almost exactly the same way, in that the front (engine) pulley dia totally adjusts to engine speed, as it seems like this one does. Am I missing something? Maybe I am misunderstanding your meaning.
The gearbox that the belt drives, is a FWD/REV box only. It doesn't alter any speeds or change ratios.

I will try my best to get through this but some times I'm not that good at explaining myself.


Comet is a company that makes CTV transmissions but calls them Comet torque converters, why I don't know. I don't know their history but for myself I have worked on Comet CTV transmissions in snowmobiles since in the early 60s and as far as I know they still are making them.

Now as for go carts. There has to be a lot of different set ups and different brands of go carts and seeing the only ones I ever worked on were my grandsons. which was like 15 years ago. What they had was just a simple single speed on and off torque converter. You may well have a CTV transmission in your go-cart. I don't know what you have???

As to what I can see in the picture you have a CTV transmission which is two pulleys that work just the opposite from each other which acts as a automatic transmission and this drives a FWD/REV gearbox. Like I said earlier this transmission is being used more all the time. A lot of car companies are using CTV transmissions now like Ford, Chrysler, Nissan. Most any ATV with a automatic transmission uses it now along with all snowmobiles and it sound like your go cart does.



If you would really like to know more on how this transmission works you can find a lot on the web which I am sure they would be better at it then me

I think you are right, about the kart, because it definitely has a variable front pulley diameter. The pulley compresses as the RPM's go up, thus increasing the drive ratio (higher gear ratio), it it makes a noticeable difference in performance. My brother in law has a kart with the straight centrifugal clutch and he has one HP more than mine. Mine will run circles around his. It's well worth the $200 or so that they cost.

The brand name on it is Torque A-Verter, that's on the cover anyway.

Thanks for the info.

Just an update for ya on this thing. It's all painted, except the bed. I will take some pics soon. I was just looking over my first posted pictures and even I cannot believe the difference. Two of the 3 wheels were rusted so bad I wasn't sure what color they were supposed to be. After about 30 min each with a power wire brush, I saw white paint.

You guys will not believe how much nicer this thing is looking. The center bolt on the torque converter was finger tight and was causing a knocking noise that had me, and my neighbor (he convinced me) that is was a rod knocking. Tightened the bolt and it got nice and quiet.

:smile: That is a series 40 comet torque converter, not a CVT.

Either way, all I was really worried about was the knocking noise. Problem solved.