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Toro Wheel Horse model 244-5
#1
C
CajunMan89
C
CajunMan89
Toro Wheel Horse model 244-5 will not start with key
I have a 1993 Toro Wheel Horse Model 244-5, model number 72040. I am using it for a project, not for yard work. I removed the seat and deck because I will not be needing them, plus, they're in the way for what I'm using this machine for. I am having trouble with the electrical and suspect it is a safety switch that needs to be disabled. The mower has a 14HP Onan OHV engine. When I turn the key to start, nothing happens. In order for it to start, I have to jump the solenoid with a screwdriver. When I want to turn it off, I have to pull the boot off of the spark plug. I am getting 12.18 Volts to everything except the blue wire that connects to the prong on the bottom of the solenoid. This wire goes to a relay in the fuse box and not to the ignition.
Again, I suspect this to be a safety switch issue. How do I disable the safety switches on this mower?
Any help is greatly appreciated!
I have a 1993 Toro Wheel Horse Model 244-5, model number 72040. I am using it for a project, not for yard work. I removed the seat and deck because I will not be needing them, plus, they're in the way for what I'm using this machine for. I am having trouble with the electrical and suspect it is a safety switch that needs to be disabled. The mower has a 14HP Onan OHV engine. When I turn the key to start, nothing happens. In order for it to start, I have to jump the solenoid with a screwdriver. When I want to turn it off, I have to pull the boot off of the spark plug. I am getting 12.18 Volts to everything except the blue wire that connects to the prong on the bottom of the solenoid. This wire goes to a relay in the fuse box and not to the ignition.
Again, I suspect this to be a safety switch issue. How do I disable the safety switches on this mower?
Any help is greatly appreciated!
#2
reynoldston
I had one in my shop this pass spring with the same problem. As I recall there is more then one fuse in that area and is located not too far from the battery. The problem on the one I worked on, the wires to the fuses were corroded bad. I also had another one but with the Kohler engine the wiring harness was bad down by the frame. They must of made that model tractor with two different brand engines??
reynoldston
I have a 1993 Toro Wheel Horse Model 244-5, model number 72040. I am using it for a project, not for yard work. I removed the seat and deck because I will not be needing them, plus, they're in the way for what I'm using this machine for. I am having trouble with the electrical and suspect it is a safety switch that needs to be disabled. The mower has a 14HP Onan OHV engine. When I turn the key to start, nothing happens. In order for it to start, I have to jump the solenoid with a screwdriver. When I want to turn it off, I have to pull the boot off of the spark plug. I am getting 12.18 Volts to everything except the blue wire that connects to the prong on the bottom of the solenoid. This wire goes to a relay in the fuse box and not to the ignition.
Again, I suspect this to be a safety switch issue. How do I disable the safety switches on this mower?
Any help is greatly appreciated!
I had one in my shop this pass spring with the same problem. As I recall there is more then one fuse in that area and is located not too far from the battery. The problem on the one I worked on, the wires to the fuses were corroded bad. I also had another one but with the Kohler engine the wiring harness was bad down by the frame. They must of made that model tractor with two different brand engines??
#3
C
CajunMan89
I guess they did, but mine is stock with a 14HP Onan. There are 4-5 fuses on mine, and they are located near the battery. I changed them all since they were blown. The previous owner told me that was the only problem he had with it....it would blow the fuse every time the PTO blades were engaged. The switch was broken also, so I disconnected the wires and removed the deck. There is one spot that a fuse went to, but the prongs appear to be removed since the fuse will not fit snugly like the others and stay in. I guess he had it removed. Everything was working fine until I removed the seat. So I tried connecting the wires together to disable the seat safety, but that hasn't done any good.
Any suggestions?
C
CajunMan89
I had one in my shop this pass spring with the same problem. As I recall there is more then one fuse in that area and is located not too far from the battery. The problem on the one I worked on, the wires to the fuses were corroded bad. I also had another one but with the Kohler engine the wiring harness was bad down by the frame. They must of made that model tractor with two different brand engines??
I guess they did, but mine is stock with a 14HP Onan. There are 4-5 fuses on mine, and they are located near the battery. I changed them all since they were blown. The previous owner told me that was the only problem he had with it....it would blow the fuse every time the PTO blades were engaged. The switch was broken also, so I disconnected the wires and removed the deck. There is one spot that a fuse went to, but the prongs appear to be removed since the fuse will not fit snugly like the others and stay in. I guess he had it removed. Everything was working fine until I removed the seat. So I tried connecting the wires together to disable the seat safety, but that hasn't done any good.
Any suggestions?
#4
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Go to this website and select PARTS. From that you can input your model number and download a service manual and parts manual. In the parts manual you will find a wiring diagram. Hope this helps.
Toro | Lawn Mowers, Golf & Grounds Equipment, Commercial Landscape, Irrigation
Toro | Lawn Mowers, Golf & Grounds Equipment, Commercial Landscape, Irrigation
#5
C
CajunMan89
Thanks for the link, but I already have a copy. I couldn't read those diagrams to save my life!
C
CajunMan89
Go to this website and select PARTS. From that you can input your model number and download a service manual and parts manual. In the parts manual you will find a wiring diagram. Hope this helps.
Toro | Lawn Mowers, Golf & Grounds Equipment, Commercial Landscape, Irrigation
Thanks for the link, but I already have a copy. I couldn't read those diagrams to save my life!
#6
C
CajunMan89
C
CajunMan89
Re: Toro Wheel Horse model 244-5 will not start/shut off with key
Any other suggestions?
Any other suggestions?
#7
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
If wiring diagrams are confusing, this is going to be way more difficult. Try this troubleshooting procedure. I hate to say this but, this does not work, you'll have to take it to the shop.
Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
#8
EngineMan
EngineMan
Take that wire off and make a new one from (S) on the key switch to where you have taken the wire off the solenoid, that should work, if not if you have a wiring diagram post it up, I or we here should be able to help you out.
#9
C
CajunMan89
C
CajunMan89
Here is the wiring diagram. As soon as I can get assistance, I'll go through the suggested steps and report back.
Thank you.
View attachment Toro Manual.pdf
Thank you.
View attachment Toro Manual.pdf
#10
reynoldston
reynoldston
I have found that they used two different engine brands, Onan and Kohler. I also found they are wired different which makes the wiring diagrams confusing. It sounds to me like someone bypassed some fuses which will make it more confusing. The one I repaired with the wiring harness problem the frame rubbed through the harness shorting out the fuses. This was between the right side of the engine and frame. I also find no two repair jobs alike so I will say look for some worn through wires that are shorting out the fuses.
#11
C
CajunMan89
C
CajunMan89
Any idea how to disable all of the safety switches? I took the deck and seat off (seat had a broken switch and the deck wiring was always blowing a fuse anyway). Plus, for the purpose of what I'm using it for, I will only be able to use the clutch, not the break and will have to make a lever to engage the clutch. I have a plywood cab that I will place on the mower to make my project, so the pedals won't be accessible once it it on.
I have tried disabling the seat switch by connecting the bottom two wires together, but apparently, there is another issue....
I completely understand the importance of safety switches, but for what I'm using this old thing for, I simply do not need or want them.
I have tried disabling the seat switch by connecting the bottom two wires together, but apparently, there is another issue....
I completely understand the importance of safety switches, but for what I'm using this old thing for, I simply do not need or want them.
#12
reynoldston
reynoldston
Just rewire the tractor. A on off switch to the kill wire. Just install a Ford style solenoid to the starter with a push button. Simple with no problems.
#13
EngineMan
If you don't understand a wiring diagram there is very little help I can give you now, sorry..!
EngineMan
Thanks for the link, but I already have a copy. I couldn't read those diagrams to save my life!
If you don't understand a wiring diagram there is very little help I can give you now, sorry..!
#14
C
CajunMan89
I have gone through your suggested steps in troubleshooting the problem. I will try my best to be specific in what I have done with each step.
1) All fuses and connections are good. (except for one that had been removed by the previous owner....I tried installing one, but there are no fuse "prongs" to seat the fuse in) I assume that one was removed because of the faulty PTO blade switch.
The battery is showing 12.78 Volts.
2) My meter is showing 12.77 Volts on the solenoid terminal that connects directly to the battery.
3) My meter is not showing any voltage to the small terminal on the solenoid that is supposed to be energized when the key is turned to the on/crank position.
4) My meter is not showing any power to the other terminal of the solenoid.
5) My meter is not showing power at the terminal that connects to the starter when the key is turned to the on/crank position.
6) my ground circuit back to the battery is good.
SIDE NOTES: The seat safety switch is broken ( One wire was completely pulled out of the black plastic plug-in of the switch. So I twisted the two wires together that come from underneath the tractor to disable it)
I used bricks to depress both the clutch and brake pedals.
If I have the voltage regulator plugged in, I do not get fire to the spark plug. In order for it to fire, I have to unplug it.
I can only crank the mower by jumping the solenoid with a screwdriver. When I touch the terminal on the solenoid that is connected directly to the battery to the small terminal that the blue wire is supposed to connect to in order to energize the solenoid when the ignition it turned to the on/crank position, the engine cranks and starts just fine.
I hope that my steps are detailed and clear.
C
CajunMan89
If wiring diagrams are confusing, this is going to be way more difficult. Try this troubleshooting procedure. I hate to say this but, this does not work, you'll have to take it to the shop.
Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
I have gone through your suggested steps in troubleshooting the problem. I will try my best to be specific in what I have done with each step.
1) All fuses and connections are good. (except for one that had been removed by the previous owner....I tried installing one, but there are no fuse "prongs" to seat the fuse in) I assume that one was removed because of the faulty PTO blade switch.
The battery is showing 12.78 Volts.
2) My meter is showing 12.77 Volts on the solenoid terminal that connects directly to the battery.
3) My meter is not showing any voltage to the small terminal on the solenoid that is supposed to be energized when the key is turned to the on/crank position.
4) My meter is not showing any power to the other terminal of the solenoid.
5) My meter is not showing power at the terminal that connects to the starter when the key is turned to the on/crank position.
6) my ground circuit back to the battery is good.
SIDE NOTES: The seat safety switch is broken ( One wire was completely pulled out of the black plastic plug-in of the switch. So I twisted the two wires together that come from underneath the tractor to disable it)
I used bricks to depress both the clutch and brake pedals.
If I have the voltage regulator plugged in, I do not get fire to the spark plug. In order for it to fire, I have to unplug it.
I can only crank the mower by jumping the solenoid with a screwdriver. When I touch the terminal on the solenoid that is connected directly to the battery to the small terminal that the blue wire is supposed to connect to in order to energize the solenoid when the ignition it turned to the on/crank position, the engine cranks and starts just fine.
I hope that my steps are detailed and clear.
#15
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Ok, we now have a place to start. With your limited experience this is going to be slow, but if you have patience and take it slow, we should be able to get to the problem. All voltages we will check should be 12V. A second set of hands will make this easier. First we need to check for voltage at the B terminalon the key switch. Second, we check for voltage at the S teminal of the key switch with the key turned to the start position. If you have voltage at both these terminals we know that the switch is working properly. If no voltage at the S terminal keyswitch is bad. If the switch is good, we now start the hard part. You will have to slowly trace each wire from the switch to the small terminal on the solenoid. Test the voltage at every connection and when you find that you drop voltage you will have found the problem. Remember that you need to go slow and never assume that any wire or part is good until you test it. If you have one, a test light will be easier to use testing each point than a multimeter. Go slow and take breaks when things don't go right. Remember that the cold beer is going to taste great when you find the problem.
#16
reynoldston
Am I missing something here?? It looks like you are striping the tractor so why are you going through all the trouble of trouble shooting and saving everything? If you are removing all the safety switches, this tractor is wired through them. This tractor also has a diagnose light system that is wired into this system that the switches and start system go's to. You will be getting way over your head if you know nothing about electric. This is the reason I said start over and strip out the wires. Just make things simple with a two place on and off switch and two place push button. Are we talking about the same Wheel horse model that I am? Yes you can save all the wiring but you will need to know how to read a wiring diagram because some switch's will say normally on (NO) and some will say normally off (NF) and you will have to know the different. I am getting out of this one seeing you have a lot of helper here and hope you the best of luck.
reynoldston
Any idea how to disable all of the safety switches? I took the deck and seat off (seat had a broken switch and the deck wiring was always blowing a fuse anyway). Plus, for the purpose of what I'm using it for, I will only be able to use the clutch, not the break and will have to make a lever to engage the clutch. I have a plywood cab that I will place on the mower to make my project, so the pedals won't be accessible once it it on.
I have tried disabling the seat switch by connecting the bottom two wires together, but apparently, there is another issue....
I completely understand the importance of safety switches, but for what I'm using this old thing for, I simply do not need or want them.
Am I missing something here?? It looks like you are striping the tractor so why are you going through all the trouble of trouble shooting and saving everything? If you are removing all the safety switches, this tractor is wired through them. This tractor also has a diagnose light system that is wired into this system that the switches and start system go's to. You will be getting way over your head if you know nothing about electric. This is the reason I said start over and strip out the wires. Just make things simple with a two place on and off switch and two place push button. Are we talking about the same Wheel horse model that I am? Yes you can save all the wiring but you will need to know how to read a wiring diagram because some switch's will say normally on (NO) and some will say normally off (NF) and you will have to know the different. I am getting out of this one seeing you have a lot of helper here and hope you the best of luck.
#17
C
CajunMan89
I went to test at the ignition's B terminal, but there is no wire there for some reason, and I don't see any evidence that it was pulled out or cut off. It is a 5 prong switch and harness, so I don't know why it would have only 4 wires on it. What should I do next?
C
CajunMan89
Ok, we now have a place to start. With your limited experience this is going to be slow, but if you have patience and take it slow, we should be able to get to the problem. All voltages we will check should be 12V. A second set of hands will make this easier. First we need to check for voltage at the B terminalon the key switch. Second, we check for voltage at the S teminal of the key switch with the key turned to the start position. If you have voltage at both these terminals we know that the switch is working properly. If no voltage at the S terminal keyswitch is bad. If the switch is good, we now start the hard part. You will have to slowly trace each wire from the switch to the small terminal on the solenoid. Test the voltage at every connection and when you find that you drop voltage you will have found the problem. Remember that you need to go slow and never assume that any wire or part is good until you test it. If you have one, a test light will be easier to use testing each point than a multimeter. Go slow and take breaks when things don't go right. Remember that the cold beer is going to taste great when you find the problem.
I went to test at the ignition's B terminal, but there is no wire there for some reason, and I don't see any evidence that it was pulled out or cut off. It is a 5 prong switch and harness, so I don't know why it would have only 4 wires on it. What should I do next?
#18
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
You should have a wire going between the large terminal on the solenoid where the positive battery wire is connected and the B terminal on the key switch. This wire will supply 12V to start your engine. Going to have to install one.
#19
C
CajunMan89
What would be the safest way to do this? I have a solderless terminal kit. The ones that fit on the key switch terminals will not fit into the black plastic piece that the other ignition wires are in.
I will attach links to the owners manual as well as the page of the parts manual with the starter and solenoid.
From what I can tell, the red wire connected to the ignition is connected to the Magneto post on the ignition, not the Battery ignition post as the diagram illustrates. Why would it be this way?
C
CajunMan89
You should have a wire going between the large terminal on the solenoid where the positive battery wire is connected and the B terminal on the key switch. This wire will supply 12V to start your engine. Going to have to install one.
What would be the safest way to do this? I have a solderless terminal kit. The ones that fit on the key switch terminals will not fit into the black plastic piece that the other ignition wires are in.
I will attach links to the owners manual as well as the page of the parts manual with the starter and solenoid.
From what I can tell, the red wire connected to the ignition is connected to the Magneto post on the ignition, not the Battery ignition post as the diagram illustrates. Why would it be this way?
Attachments
#20
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Ignition switchs
You are going to have to look at the switch and see if it is the right one for your wiring harness? I suspect someone may have tried the replace it at some point and you don't have the correct one. This is not going to be quick and easy, so have patience. Below you will see a standard ignition switch, it is not the one for your unit, but it will help you understand what I am talking about. I am going to take a closer look at your wiring diagram andparts list and see if I can figure out what is going on. Have nothing to do for the next two hours, so I will try to get back to you this evening. In the mean time, if you have time, can you tell me which wires you have in your plug? The website shows you a picture of the switch I'm talking about.
G= Ground
M= Magneto
S= Starter
L= Lights or Accessories
B= Battery
G terminal will be connected to a good ground.
M terminal will be connected to the wire coming from the coil or magneto.
S terminal will be connected to the wire going to the small terminal on the solenoid.
L terminal will be connected to the lights.
B terminal will be connected to the large terminal on the solenoid, the same terminal which the large cable from the battery is connected.
HUSTLER ELECTRICAL PARTS
You are going to have to look at the switch and see if it is the right one for your wiring harness? I suspect someone may have tried the replace it at some point and you don't have the correct one. This is not going to be quick and easy, so have patience. Below you will see a standard ignition switch, it is not the one for your unit, but it will help you understand what I am talking about. I am going to take a closer look at your wiring diagram andparts list and see if I can figure out what is going on. Have nothing to do for the next two hours, so I will try to get back to you this evening. In the mean time, if you have time, can you tell me which wires you have in your plug? The website shows you a picture of the switch I'm talking about.
G= Ground
M= Magneto
S= Starter
L= Lights or Accessories
B= Battery
G terminal will be connected to a good ground.
M terminal will be connected to the wire coming from the coil or magneto.
S terminal will be connected to the wire going to the small terminal on the solenoid.
L terminal will be connected to the lights.
B terminal will be connected to the large terminal on the solenoid, the same terminal which the large cable from the battery is connected.
HUSTLER ELECTRICAL PARTS
#21
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
According to the schematic you should have four wires going to the switch, even though it has five terminals.
A red wire for power for B terminal
A black wire ground for the G terminal
An orange wire for accessories for the L terminal
A tan wire for starting for the S terminal
Go to the Toro website I posted, download the service manual with 12 pages. On the bottom of page 9 you will find a picture of how the back of the key switch should look and compare it to yours. Post back what you find.
A red wire for power for B terminal
A black wire ground for the G terminal
An orange wire for accessories for the L terminal
A tan wire for starting for the S terminal
Go to the Toro website I posted, download the service manual with 12 pages. On the bottom of page 9 you will find a picture of how the back of the key switch should look and compare it to yours. Post back what you find.
#22
C
CajunMan89
That's how it is! Only 4 wires.... it has a wire going to the M terminal, not the B terminal. The wires are connected like this: S terminal - red wire, L terminal - black wire, M terminal - tan wire, G terminal - orange wire, B terminal - no wire. All of them appear to go from the ignition to the fuse/relay box.
What I'm not understanding is that when I got the mower, everything electrical was working correctly. I removed the deck and seat, then after that is when I started having the problem with it. Plus, I noticed recently while trying to troubleshoot this thing, that when the voltage regulator is plugged, the spark plug will not fire.....Some people told me that was another safety......
C
CajunMan89
According to the schematic you should have four wires going to the switch, even though it has five terminals.
A red wire for power for B terminal
A black wire ground for the G terminal
An orange wire for accessories for the L terminal
A tan wire for starting for the S terminal
Go to the Toro website I posted, download the service manual with 12 pages. On the bottom of page 9 you will find a picture of how the back of the key switch should look and compare it to yours. Post back what you find.
That's how it is! Only 4 wires.... it has a wire going to the M terminal, not the B terminal. The wires are connected like this: S terminal - red wire, L terminal - black wire, M terminal - tan wire, G terminal - orange wire, B terminal - no wire. All of them appear to go from the ignition to the fuse/relay box.
What I'm not understanding is that when I got the mower, everything electrical was working correctly. I removed the deck and seat, then after that is when I started having the problem with it. Plus, I noticed recently while trying to troubleshoot this thing, that when the voltage regulator is plugged, the spark plug will not fire.....Some people told me that was another safety......
#23
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Rivets
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Rivets
Did you look at page 9 of the service manual I talked about in my last post? Were the wire color and wire location on the switch the same as on page 9?
#24
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CajunMan89
They're the same color, just in different locations....I don't know why....seems odd to me.
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CajunMan89
Did you look at page 9 of the service manual I talked about in my last post? Were the wire color and wire location on the switch the same as on page 9?
They're the same color, just in different locations....I don't know why....seems odd to me.
#25
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Rivets
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Rivets
If the unit worked before you started this project and you did not change the key switch, we are missing something in our communications. You say that the key switch has the terminals in the same location as the diagram shown on page 9? If that is true, then the only thing that be done is rewire the switch. Being a retired instructor I am very hesitant in giving you instructions on how to do this, given you limited ability to understand wiring diagrams. Safety is always number 1 for me and if you hook up a wire wrong we could cost big $$$$ in repairs or worse. I'm going ask you to take a close look at the wiring diagram one more time and see if you can trace each of the wires to the proper component to make sure that the only component which does not have the correct wires attached to it is the ignition switch. If you can not convince me that you are comfortable working with the diagram, for safety reasons I will have to back out of this thread. Sorry, but that's just the way I am.
#26
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CajunMan89
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CajunMan89
Perhaps it is best if I wait until I can get someone more experienced to look at it, then? Thanks for all your patience and advice, it is much appreciated! Once I get it figured out, I'll let you know what the problem was.
#28
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CajunMan89
Rivets, I got it going with a lot of help from an old family friend. We rewired the ignition according to the diagram. The hardest part was getting the wires to unlock from the plastic plug. Once we did that, the relays would engage, but nothing else would happen. If I remember correctly, we had to add another piece of wire in order to splice the red and tan wires together in order for the switch to start the engine. To make the ignition kill, we had to add a wire to the magneto post on the ignition, and splice it to the light blue wire that energizes the solenoid.
I think I'm telling you correctly as to what we did, but I'm not looking at it as I'm typing this. Anyways, it it finally working as it should, and very well to boot! All I have to do is turn the key to start for just half of a second and the engine starts right up!
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CajunMan89
I think that is a wise decision. If you need help in the future please post back.
Rivets, I got it going with a lot of help from an old family friend. We rewired the ignition according to the diagram. The hardest part was getting the wires to unlock from the plastic plug. Once we did that, the relays would engage, but nothing else would happen. If I remember correctly, we had to add another piece of wire in order to splice the red and tan wires together in order for the switch to start the engine. To make the ignition kill, we had to add a wire to the magneto post on the ignition, and splice it to the light blue wire that energizes the solenoid.
I think I'm telling you correctly as to what we did, but I'm not looking at it as I'm typing this. Anyways, it it finally working as it should, and very well to boot! All I have to do is turn the key to start for just half of a second and the engine starts right up!
#30
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CajunMan89
It sure did!
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CajunMan89
How was that beer when you got it started, I'll bet it really tasted good.
It sure did!