I have a toro MX5060 zero turn. Twice now it has powered off when I move the handles to the neutral position and will not restart. The first time I let it sit for a while, checked the battery for voltage which was okay, pulled the seat safety switch plug off and blew it clean, plugged it back in sat on it and it started and ran fine after that for a week. Today I used it on a job. It ran fine until I drove it up on my trailer and put the handles in neutral (out). The brake did not engage, and the motor immediately started to quit. I quickly pulled the handles in, and the motor. My trailer is not level and slants toward the gate ramp, so it was backing (rolling) off the trailer when in the neutral position (i.e., the brake would not engage). I drove it back up to the front while my son shut the gate and then I put the handles in neutral where it immediately killed the engine, rolled back to the gate and now will not restart. Could it be one of the safety switches?
Toro shuts down and brake won't engage when handles are in Neutral
- Thread starter zcmurray
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It is likely the 121-3017 brake control module assy. Water tends to get the MX150 electrical housing and corrode the terminals. Supposed to be water proof but it is not. This corrosion shorts out the controller. The controller, terminals, and connector housing must be replaced. Now Toro will say the wiring harness needs replacing in order for them to warranty the module. Also no dielectric grease is to be used either. Now of course I have the tools to just the connector and terminals on the harness so I save my customer the expense of the complete harness.
I even seen brand new controller to go bonkers on their own just sitting parked.
I even seen brand new controller to go bonkers on their own just sitting parked.
Thanks Star Tech!. I checked the continuity of the seat switch and the mower engage switch and they are good. Was going to check the Single pole safety switches on each arm but was pretty sure they are probably good too. I assume the control module unplugs from the harness without special tools? If not what would I need. I have a BUNCH of tools but few specialty.
The mower is at least 12 years old with no electrical issues so I was due to replace something expensive. lol.
Does the 121-3017 assembly include the controller, terminals, and connector housing? I can get one online for $116.
The mower is at least 12 years old with no electrical issues so I was due to replace something expensive. lol.
Does the 121-3017 assembly include the controller, terminals, and connector housing? I can get one online for $116.
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Just the control module and is simple to unplug once you can get to it. As I said for a layman the wiring harness is what is recommend. Since I am a shop and have purchase the proper terminal crimps and the terminal extractors along the instruction of how to disassemble the MX150 12 pin connector I go that route here for my customers.
Now Mouser does have the terminals and housings available and even the terminal extractor.
The last time I brought the extractor it was $27.83, the housing was $3.33, and the female terminals were $0.14 ea (you need up to 12 of them). Then of course you would the open barrel crimper which was $70+ the last I brought it. Most likely all these will higher today.
So the wire harness is one piece for everything then and not just the controller? (121-5652)
If so, I think I'll just change out the controller if the harness connector plug to it looks clean.
If so, I think I'll just change out the controller if the harness connector plug to it looks clean.
sgkent
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I haven't done one but normally one needs both the insertion and/or extraction tool(s) and the special crimper tool on specialty connectors. I had a friend that used to make insertion and extraction tools used in that type stuff. And... one wire in the wrong spot can ruin a month.
about the same as the harness.
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All depends on where you get the 136-9184 harness but for me it the one off eBay if it was an one time repair. You just cant hap hazard crimp the terminals with those el cheapo crimper from Tram-law.
And a simple mistake of crossing up a couple wires can destroy the controller. Must document the wire current positions before starting the replacement.
I am not responsible for any costly mistakes you make in doing this but here the info on the connector housing. Drop the Prefix "MLX-". Also note the housing must be in the unlocked position to remove and insert terminals and cavity plugs.
There is also specify instructions on the disassembly and re-assembly of these units that must be followed or damage can occur. Available from Molex.
And a simple mistake of crossing up a couple wires can destroy the controller. Must document the wire current positions before starting the replacement.
I am not responsible for any costly mistakes you make in doing this but here the info on the connector housing. Drop the Prefix "MLX-". Also note the housing must be in the unlocked position to remove and insert terminals and cavity plugs.
There is also specify instructions on the disassembly and re-assembly of these units that must be followed or damage can occur. Available from Molex.
Got new controller installed and it works fine. The old controller gears were locked up and wouldn't allow the motor to move the brake arms.
Thanks for all your help!
Thanks for all your help!