Export thread

Toro MX5060 Oil Change Mess

#1

B

Brucebotti

I have a 2013 Toro MX5060 with the 23hp Kawasaki motor. Changing the oil is always a disaster. The supplied plastic hose doe little to alleviate the problem. Is there anything like the oil changing aid shown below that will fit the Kawasaki motor? Thanks in advance!
Bruce


https://www.amazon.com/Drainzit-Oil-Changing-Aid-STAN1438-C-DRA/dp/B000PDN3HY?tag=viglink22747-20


#2

M

mechanic mark

Oil change aid is on my B&S Vanguard. I purchased a small round plastic oil drain pan that I drain engine oil into as well as oil filter then pour into larger oil drain container & take to local auto parts store to drain, they have it recycled & do not charge for bringing in oil, fuel, antifreeze etc.


#3

B

Brucebotti

mechanic mark said:
Oil change aid is on my B&S Vanguard. I purchased a small round plastic oil drain pan that I drain engine oil into as well as oil filter then pour into larger oil drain container & take to local auto parts store to drain, they have it recycled & do not charge for bringing in oil, fuel, antifreeze etc.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. I have no issues with disposal (our town accepts it). I just need to get the correct "oil change aid" to fit a Kawasaki motor. Maybe I should ask on the Kawasaki Engine portion of the forum.
Bruce


#4

B

bertsmobile1

I use a pump and now would not be without it.
Mower shops charge a small fortune for them but boat shops will have the best range & price.
They vary from a syringe on steroids to electronic automatic vaccuum pumps.
Very clean ,very easy.


#5

B

Brucebotti

bertsmobile1 said:
I use a pump and now would not be without it.
Mower shops charge a small fortune for them but boat shops will have the best range & price.
They vary from a syringe on steroids to electronic automatic vaccuum pumps.
Very clean ,very easy.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I have one of those but I am not comfortable that it is getting any of the nasty stuff on the bottom of the crankcase.

The reason I bought it is for a walk behind mower that I have. To drain the oil, you have to either take the motor off of the deck to get to the drain plug, or tip the mower upside down to drain it out of the fill tube (this is what is recommended in the owner's manual).

Bruce


#6

B

bertsmobile1

I use mine to suck oil off the shop floor.
The reason why you change the oil hot is to have all that crud in circulation.
Trick is to mow as normal then drive into the shop and suck the oil strait out.
If you really want to be anal about it you can run off side of mower up onto a brick or block of wood to encourage the oil under the pump.
No matter what you do you can never drain an engine spotless there will always be oil sitting on top of cams, gears etc.

The Oliver has a 10 gallon sump.
The recommended oil change proceedure is to replace 1/3 of the oil every 100 hours operation.


#7

B

Brucebotti

bertsmobile1 said:
I use mine to suck oil off the shop floor.
The reason why you change the oil hot is to have all that crud in circulation.
Trick is to mow as normal then drive into the shop and suck the oil strait out.
If you really want to be anal about it you can run off side of mower up onto a brick or block of wood to encourage the oil under the pump.
No matter what you do you can never drain an engine spotless there will always be oil sitting on top of cams, gears etc.

The Oliver has a 10 gallon sump.

The recommended oil change proceedure is to replace 1/3 of the oil every 100 hours operation.
Click to expand...

You obviously have a good one...:smile:. Mine is cheap plastic, and if I were to use it when the oil is hot, it would likely melt, and / or scald me..:laughing:.

I think I'll try on the Kawasaki Engine Forum.

Thanks again,
Bruce


#8

B

bertsmobile1

Mine is plastic too , isn't everything ?
The syringe ones are HDPE (plastic) and they handle hot oil quite well although my customers say it get uncomfortable to hold for much longer then 5 minutes or so.
Mine is a 6.5 L vaccuum job and when Stens had them on special for $ 80 ( wholesale ) I bought 5, 1 spare for me and 3 for my BSA riding friends as they are perfect for a motorcycle oil tank.

And there is really only 1 forum so don't be surprised if you don't get a response there.


#9

7394

7394

You have the same Kaw engine as my 4260 has. Oil Change is easy, Once heated up good, run the gas tank side rear wheel up on a 2" or so block to get oil tipping towards the drain plug. I then place plastic garbage bag on the deck below the drain & filter (just extra insurance). Attach the clear tubing & place a container down below, remove fill cap & cover opening with clean rag to allow air into crankcase, & drain the oil.

The oil filter has a lip / ledge under it cast into the engine. I used a small plastic round bottle (4 inch), that I cut to just fit under the lip below filter, once in place remove filter, the cup I cut catches any filter oil.

Wipe down any excess & close drain & install new oil filter, I like to pour about 1/2 the filter full of oil, however you need to be quick on install.. :laughing:
Fill engine with 2 qts of with oil.

Start & let run for a few minutes, shut down, & check oil level, & make sure no leaks. It ain't rocket science.


#10

B

Brucebotti

bertsmobile1 said:
Mine is plastic too , isn't everything ?
The syringe ones are HDPE (plastic) and they handle hot oil quite well although my customers say it get uncomfortable to hold for much longer then 5 minutes or so.
Mine is a 6.5 L vaccuum job and when Stens had them on special for $ 80 ( wholesale ) I bought 5, 1 spare for me and 3 for my BSA riding friends as they are perfect for a motorcycle oil tank.

And there is really only 1 forum so don't be surprised if you don't get a response there.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. If I don't hear anything I will just wait until the next time I change the oil and figure out what thread size I have.

Bruce


#11

B

Brucebotti

7394 said:
You have the same Kaw engine as my 4260 has. Oil Change is easy, Once heated up good, run the gas tank side rear wheel up on a 2" or so block to get oil tipping towards the drain plug. I then place plastic garbage bag on the deck below the drain & filter (just extra insurance). Attach the clear tubing & place a container down below, remove fill cap & cover opening with clean rag to allow air into crankcase, & drain the oil.

The oil filter has a lip / ledge under it cast into the engine. I used a small plastic round bottle (4 inch), that I cut to just fit under the lip below filter, once in place remove filter, the cup I cut catches any filter oil.

Wipe down any excess & close drain & install new oil filter, I like to pour about 1/2 the filter full of oil, however you need to be quick on install.. :laughing:
Fill engine with 2 qts of with oil.

Start & let run for a few minutes, shut down, & check oil level, & make sure no leaks. It ain't rocket science.
Click to expand...

I like your plan, and I agree it ain't rocket science:laughing: My big issue is the mess it makes and the effort it takes to alleviate it. I will keep looking for some sort of an extension kit, and if I can't find one, I'll make one.
Thanks,
Bruce


#12

BlazNT

BlazNT

Bruce lets think for just a moment. At your next oil change remove plug and take to hardware or auto parts store and let them figure out what thread and size it is. Then it will be easy to find part or make yourself.


#13

B

Brucebotti

BlazNT said:
Bruce lets think for just a moment. At your next oil change remove plug and take to hardware or auto parts store and let them figure out what thread and size it is. Then it will be easy to find part or make yourself.
Click to expand...

Thanks. That is my backup plan when I change the oil for winter storage.
Bruce


Footer Links 1

Top