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I have had the MX5060 for a little over a year and I absolutely love it. I have religiously followed the maintenance schedule. Actually I do oil changes and lubrication much more often than the recommended intervals. My only concern is the front wheel uprights. I can lube the wheel itself, but there is no provision for the upright (the part that swivels like a caster). Is there any way to lube this, or is it a lubed-for-life part? I don't want to take it apart and ruin anything. Any ideas / advice?
Thanks,
Bruce

Hello,
I have the same mower and had the same concerns until I looked at the parts manual and saw that there were sealed bearings in there! A great improvement over the older models! In fact I wish they would do the same on the wheels and then there would be no grease fittings at all on the mower!
Enjoy,
Flywindy

flywindy said:

Hello,
I have the same mower and had the same concerns until I looked at the parts manual and saw that there were sealed bearings in there! A great improvement over the older models! In fact I wish they would do the same on the wheels and then there would be no grease fittings at all on the mower!
Enjoy,
Flywindy

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More and more manufacturers are going to the sealed bearings(wheels and blade spindles) and it sometimes stirs up quite a controversy. There have been significant advances in the design and materials used in sealed bearings over the last few years and their longevity greatly increased. I, too, was accustomed to a lawn tractor that had greases zerks in the blade spindles and I religiously lubed them every 25 hours. When I began shopping ZTR's in the summer of 2012 I found that MANY of the higher quality(Commercial) ZTR's had sealed bearings and was quite disappointed that you could not perform maintenance on something so important(especially on such expensive mowers). I asked almost every dealer why and the resounding response was that not only were the sealed bearings just as good....but that for years some manufacturers were actually adding grease zerks on spindles that contained "sealed bearings". The Gravely dealer mechanic actually showed me a spindle that they had rebuilt and indeed the original bearings that were removed were completely sealed and the grease zerks only filled the spindle cavity around the bearings and never touched an actual bearing. He told me the manufacturers were doing that because the consumers demanded grease zerks and that the addition of them was nothing more than a placebo to satisfy consumers who insisted on maintaining their spindles. And I got this same story from 4-5 different dealers as well as on forums like this. The more I researched this the more I was convinced that sealed bearings were not a concern. The Gravely mechanic assured me that the life expectancy on the sealed bearings used on my Pro-Turn was easily 2,500-3,000 hours and were very much good for the expected lifetime of most ZTR's. And yes...the improvements to sealed bearings were propagated by professional landscapers who needed the time they had to devote to maintenance reduced.

flywindy and djdicetn,
Thanks for the info. I can breathe easier, knowing that there is no maintenance required on the uprights / spindles. I was afraid that it might just have some sort of nylon bushing for a bearing surface. I guess I should have just looked in the parts manual.
Thanks again!
Bruce

Brucebotti said:

flywindy and djdicetn,
Thanks for the info. I can breathe easier, knowing that there is no maintenance required on the uprights / spindles. I was afraid that it might just have some sort of nylon bushing for a bearing surface. I guess I should have just looked in the parts manual.
Thanks again!
Bruce

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Djdicetn is right, more and more manufacturers are using sealed bearings. I always said the samething that they needed zerks so I could grease thing and maintain the bearings but since I purchased the GS I've found the sealed bearings are better to use than the others. Just about everything on my GS is sealed and I have between 5 and 600 commercial hours on the mower and have never had an issue with any bearings.

Brucebotti,

We have a lot in common in that I'm a maintenance fanatic.

That said, how often do you change out your air filter and do you slip on a foam pre-filter over it? My yard is dusty in some sections.

I'm going by the time the manual states to change it out, but I'm beginning to think that's not often enough, but what do I know...?

I keep 2 pre-filters, one to slip over the big air filter (after I gently tap out what dust I can...) after I wash the one I pull off which is about every third/fourth mowing my 1 1/2 acres.

Thanks!

Brucebotti

I forgot to ask what sort of oil you use in your MX5060? And, do you change oil filters with every change though the manual says every other change is good enough?

Me, Mobil 1 synthetic 10W30, but perhaps I should switch to Mobil 1 straight 30, however the I'm not using any oil between changes.

Zeroturner said:

Brucebotti,

We have a lot in common in that I'm a maintenance fanatic.

That said, how often do you change out your air filter and do you slip on a foam pre-filter over it? My yard is dusty in some sections.

I'm going by the time the manual states to change it out, but I'm beginning to think that's not often enough, but what do I know...?

I keep 2 pre-filters, one to slip over the big air filter (after I gently tap out what dust I can...) after I wash the one I pull off which is about every third/fourth mowing my 1 1/2 acres.

Thanks!

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Zeroturner,
First off, let me apologize for being so lame and taking so long to answer you. I've been so busy with work, honey-do lists, and three Grandbabies.

I have 56 hours on it now and I haven't changed the air filter yet. I do lightly blow it out every month or so. I plan on changing it at the end of the season at about 65 hours. I haven't tried a foam pre-filter, but I probably should. Normally it's not dusty here in CT, but this year has been really dry and dusty.

I think we are better off being maintenance fanatics as opposed to ignoring our equipment.

Take care,
Bruce

Zeroturner said:

Brucebotti

I forgot to ask what sort of oil you use in your MX5060? And, do you change oil filters with every change though the manual says every other change is good enough?

Me, Mobil 1 synthetic 10W30, but perhaps I should switch to Mobil 1 straight 30, however the I'm not using any oil between changes.

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Zeroturner,
I use non-synthetic Castrol GTX 10w30. I have been using Castrol for 40 years and have had good luck (read, no bad luck:smile.

I changed the oil and filter at about 7 hours and then again at the end of last season at about 35 hours. I will change both at the end of each season which is about every 35 hours. It's probably over-kill, but at worst I'm throwing away a little money to get some peace-of-mind.

Being really fanatical, I also changed the oil and filters for the hydro drives. I've been told that this was a total waste, but at least it made me feel better.....:laughing:.

Bruce

fwiw: The oils designed for auto use have to have a much lower Zinc content, to protect the catalytic converters on autos.
Zinc is very effective friction reducer..

There are oils designed for pre cat- converter autos that have much higher Zinc content..

PS: I have the Pre-Filter on my 4260 & it really helps..

7394 said:

fwiw: The oils designed for auto use have to have a much lower Zinc content, to protect the catalytic converters on autos.
Zinc is very effective friction reducer..

There are oils designed for pre cat- converter autos that have much higher Zinc content..

PS: I have the Pre-Filter on my 4260 & it really helps..

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7394,
That's interesting. What oil brands would you recommend that have the higher Zinc content.
Thanks,
Bruce

Oils have greatly improved over time.. In my Bikes & last mower I used Valvoline VR1 Valvoline.com > FAQs > Motor Oil Car FAQs > Racing Oil

Now with my new Toro w/ Kawi engine, I will use the recommended "Kawi-oil" till out of warranty, it also has higher levels of Zinc..

Most auto parts stores have various brands listed as Racing Oil & not for Street use.. These should also have higher levels of Zinc (ZDDP)

Brucebotti said:

Being really fanatical, I also changed the oil and filters for the hydro drives. I've been told that this was a total waste, but at least it made me feel better.....:laughing:.

Bruce

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Does the MX5060 have commercial hydros vs the SS5060? I'm the guy that just got the SS5060. I'm pretty sure that mine are supposed to be no-maintenance. Maybe you have the ZT-2800 hydros.

7394 said:

Oils have greatly improved over time.. In my Bikes & last mower I used Valvoline VR1 Valvoline.com > FAQs > Motor Oil Car FAQs > Racing Oil

Now with my new Toro w/ Kawi engine, I will use the recommended "Kawi-oil" till out of warranty, it also has higher levels of Zinc..

Most auto parts stores have various brands listed as Racing Oil & not for Street use.. These should also have higher levels of Zinc (ZDDP)

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. I'll check that out at the auto parts store. That's a good idea about using the Kawi oil. I don't know how expensive it is, but for the amount I would use its not a big deal
Bruce

wbw said:

Does the MX5060 have commercial hydros vs the SS5060? I'm the guy that just got the SS5060. I'm pretty sure that mine are supposed to be no-maintenance. Maybe you have the ZT-2800 hydros.

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The MX5060 does have the "serviceable" ZT2800 hydros. I don't believe they would be considered commercial. I would call them high-end residential....:smile:
Bruce

:thumbsup: Bruce- yes the info I studied show only the MX5060 has the ZT2800 hydros (due to the fab. deck extra weigh) & an oil filter on each hydro.

PS: The Kawi oil is a straight 30wt dino-oil, & cost me $5.99 per qt. at my local dealer... About what something decent from auto parts would cost as well.

It is listed for commecial use Kawi engines & recommended for Res. Kawis too..

7394 said:

:thumbsup: Bruce- yes the info I studied show only the MX5060 has the ZT2800 hydros (due to the fab. deck extra weigh) & an oil filter on each hydro.

PS: The Kawi oil is a straight 30wt dino-oil, & cost me $5.99 per qt. at my local dealer... About what something decent from auto parts would cost as well.

It is listed for commecial use Kawi engines & recommended for Res. Kawis too..

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7394,
Thanks for the Kawi oil info. At $5.99 per quart, its not outrageously priced. I think I'll go with it for the next change.

Those oil filters on the hydro units were a bear to change. i had an oil filter socket and got one off easily. On the other side, I ended up having to pierce it with a screwdriver to get it off. You can imagine how much I was rethinking my decision to change out the oil & filters before the recommended interval....:laughing:!
Bruce

Bruce- That sounds like that one hydro filter didn't want changed...Yeoww !! I bet you were rethinking your plan.. But you got her done.. :thumbsup: Should be easier next time..

I have had to pierce a filter or two on trucks of mine, but they were old...


PS: When I did my 8 hour 'break-in' oil & filter change, the drain screw/hex was only finger tight.. That was an eye-opener..

7394 said:

Bruce- That sounds like that one hydro filter didn't want changed...Yeoww !! I bet you were rethinking your plan.. But you got her done.. :thumbsup: Should be easier next time..

I have had to pierce a filter or two on trucks of mine, but they were old...


PS: When I did my 8 hour 'break-in' oil & filter change, the drain screw/hex was only finger tight.. That was an eye-opener..

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7394,
I've only had to pry a feww off in my day. It was usually after bringing it somewhere to have it changed. That's why I always do all the maintenance myself. Then I have no one else to blame, except the "nut" with the wrench?.

When I changed the oil for the first time, my drain screw wasn't loose, but it was too messy for my liking. I guess that's the price we have to pay.
Bruce

Brucebotti said:

7394,
I've only had to pry a few off in my day. It was usually after bringing it somewhere to have it changed. That's why I always do all the maintenance myself. Then I have no one else to blame, except the "nut" with the wrench.

When I changed the oil for the first time, my drain screw wasn't loose, but it was too messy for my liking. I guess that's the price we have to pay.
Bruce

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Bruce- Yes, I prefer doing my own wrenching as well (other than any covered warranty work) & agree about only me to blame if I screw it up..:laughing:

Good that your drain screw was tight, mine certainly is now... I also cut down a plastic small round can, I made it to fit under the oil filter ledge.. The smaller lid I used was not quite adequate on capacity (eyes roll).. Good thing I put down heavy layer of plastic covering the deck area there ..

And for the drain, I notched the smaller lid (mentioned above) & it will now easily fit under the drain, so I should be better prepared for next oil change..:biggrin:

And about my drain screw, I dug around & found a rubber plug that fits perfectly over the drain housing, I cut down the depth so it bottoms on the drain screw head..

Now I don't have to obsess about that drain coming loose while mowing..

Buddy