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My uncle's Toro blower is defying all efforts. It will not turn over. It has a new plug and ignition module. I have tested the wires to the switch and the switch. I pulled the flywheel and checked the shear pin. The ignition module is grounding properly. I contacted my friend who has been in the repair business for years and he said " you covered all the bases that know ". I didn't do a full compression check. So I guess that could be an issue, but the compression does seem good. If anyone has an idea, please assist.

What is the model number?

By “won’t turn over” what do you mean? Are you able to check for spark? Are yo able to check if the carb is getting fuel? Are you able to determine if fuel is getting from the carb to the cylinder? We need to have more info from you, because we lost our ESP due to COVID and are not standing next to you with a strong drink in hand. You need to paint us a better picture of what you have, including model and serial numbers of the unit before we can help you. If you can’t help us, we can’t help you.

Model is 51988. The whole ESP and such...yeah that's cute and I've seen it repeatedly elswhere. Spraying starting fluid directly under the spark plug bypasses the fuel system. Serial number #290178029.

You’re really cute also. I asked you five things to give us and you only gave us ONE, model number 51988. For all others looking at this post, he is talking about a Toro PowerVac Gas PoweredBlower. The serial number he gave us is actually the part number for an ignition module. Because you really don’t want us to get to technical, or you can’t answer the other questions, I can only make the following assumptions. 1. You have fresh fuel, mixed properly at 50/1. 2. You have used the primer bulb when trying to start and the bulb fills with fuel. 3. You have tested the switch and have great spark with the new module and spark plug you installed. 4. You feel that you have good compression. 5. Because you have done all of these things you have reasonable mechanical skills. That being said I suggest you check both crankshaft seals for leakage, because any leakage will result in a lean mixture entering the crankcase and cylinder. There are two methods to check those seals. Best way is with a leak down tester. The other way is to remove the flywheel and blower fan and visually inspect the seals, looking for oil on the outside. This is the best I can come up with, with the limited and blurred picture you provided. I’ll back out of this thread, but I suggest that if you want more help, you loose the attitude and maybe someone smarter than me will respond. Shouldn’t take much to find someone smarter than the two of us. Bye, bye, bye.

Thank you for responding to the post. My mechanical skills are quite modest, but Lord willing, I will learn.

Can I be cute too?

Slomo, sorry to tell you “Like stupid somethings can’t be fixed”

Hey. I'm cute.
Old, but cute.

slomo said:

Can I be cute too?

View attachment 56961

Click to expand...

No.

Now before we end up in a cyber love in.
1) check you are getting a spark
if not remove the blower housing and disconnect the kill wire from the coil
2) get a can of carb cleaner and give the engine a short shot down the plug hole then replace the plug and pull the rope
goes bang proceed to # 3 does not go bang then you have a valve or timing failure
# 3 happens when we get an answer to # 1 & # 2

Bert, you didn’t catch that this is a 2-cycle hand blower.

Opps sorry must have been all that love in my eyes.
Will go back & modify thread # 11

Best post ever. I'm cute, I'm cute!! Gord is not cute. ? ?

slomo

If just saying, it was My blower. First thing I would do is pull muffler and see if mud doubler built a new home in it. Or other plugging thing's. See if it will try and run without muffler.

TDACT said:

My uncle's Toro blower is defying all efforts. It will not turn over. It has a new plug and ignition module. I have tested the wires to the switch and the switch. I pulled the flywheel and checked the shear pin. The ignition module is grounding properly. I contacted my friend who has been in the repair business for years and he said " you covered all the bases that know ". I didn't do a full compression check. So I guess that could be an issue, but the compression does seem good. If anyone has an idea, please assist.

Click to expand...

What brand is the ignition module?

How were the wires tested to the switch?

What about cleaning the OEM carb? Check for cracked fuel lines. Fresh fuel and 50:1 mix? Carb rebuild time?

What was the compression value?

You need to test the carb with one of these.



slomo