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1) changed air filter
2) cleaned out gas tank and filled with new fuel
3) changed oil
4) TEC 6.5 hp engine - rebuilt carb, cleaned jets in bowl bolt, cleaned jet in side of carb (under plastic cap), checked float, needle/seat, changed primer bulb
5) spark plug shows spark when electrode is grounded to engine
6) released safety handle and no spark, pulled safety handle and spark returns
7) sprayed new gas in head - still won't crank
8) doesn't even sound like it is attempting to start

I would appreciate any suggestions !!!

Steve

Please post the model and serial numbers for both the engine and the mower. When you say it does not crank, can we assume that you have an electric start unit? If that is right, have you charged the battery?

It's a Toro Recycler - 22" front drive, self -propelled
It is a pull start model
TEC 6.5 hp LV195EA 362089D
Also changed spark plug...

You've done everything I would have done. I don't want to insult you, but I would like to start over. Please loosen the bowl nut, not completely off, enough to see if we have fuel in the bowl. I will assume yes. Second, did you make sure that the idle jet, on the side, was open both vertically and horizontally. Fine wire should go down at least 3/8". Is the carb mounted tight to the block, no leaks. Are you sure that when you installed the new primer, you made sure that it was seated tightly? When you try to start the engine, does the plug come out wet. What brand and number spark plug did you install? Sorry for all the questions, but you are my eyes, and right now the picture is blurrly. With what you have done the engine should start????

I did everything that you mentioned above. I installed a J19LM spark plug in the head. Spark plug does not come out wet though so I still think there must be a carb problem...

If the plug is dry, I agree that you have a fuel problem. If you have a spray can of carb cleaner, try spraying straight into the carb with the air cleaner off and try to start. Also, try closing the plug gap to .020". Do you have someone available to put the engine over while you choke the engine by covering the engine with your hand? We need to get fuel into the cylinder to solve this problem and I'm looking for a wet plug.

I have carb cleaner and starting fluid. I can regap the plug, remove the air filter, spray starting fluid in it, cover it with duct tape, and give it a good yank or tow. I will message you back...

No starting fluid, too dry. Duct tape will work. If plug comes out wet remove duct tape and try to start with no priming.

Okay, removed plug and regapped to .020. Removed air filter and sprayed carb cleaner into carb, covered with duct tape. Also disconnected spade lug on magneto. Pulled several times, didn't make any difference. Checked plug and it was wet. Took spark plug wire off and hooked up spark tester. Good spark coming from coil wire. Replaced coil wire on plug, no difference.

when and why did it stop running in the first place? how long has it not run? check compression and flywheel key, also blade and adapter.

That's what I was going to ask next. I now would be looking at a sheared flywheel key. Did you hit something?

Your topic header states "rebuilt". Did you time the crank to the cam gear correctly when you re-assembled the engine?

Before I tell my story, THANKS FOR ALL OF THE SUGGESTIONS !!!

I checked compression today and I was at 30 lbs. Took the block apart and found:

a) piston must have hit something
b) one side of piston squashed tight on oil rings
c) outside of piston and inside of cylinder wall have matching gouges
d) may have even bent the valve stems

So, between the oil rings not moving and the valve seats not squared up, I think I found the issue. This one goes in the junk heap but I sure learned a lot !

Stevehenri

you could always bore it .030 over and get a new .030 over piston & rings. Check also your crank pin and con rod for scoring. With a new piston/rings and a freshly bored/honed cylinder, and assuming the lower end is OK, you would $ave a lot of money plus it would be a good winter project and be "like new". If you "DO" elect to rebuild, remember this forum. There are "many" here that will help and guide you through the rebuild process.

With this engine boring and refitting would be more coatly than purchasing a new unit. It you think that way short block would be the way to go, but still costly. Purchasing new unit probably the best.

stevehenri said:

Before I tell my story, THANKS FOR ALL OF THE SUGGESTIONS !!!

I checked compression today and I was at 30 lbs. Took the block apart and found:

a) piston must have hit something
b) one side of piston squashed tight on oil rings
c) outside of piston and inside of cylinder wall have matching gouges
d) may have even bent the valve stems

So, between the oil rings not moving and the valve seats not squared up, I think I found the issue. This one goes in the junk heap but I sure learned a lot !

Stevehenri

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After reading all the posts I am wondering what got into the cylinder where the piston knocked the chunk out of it and the wall as well? I know she's headed for the bone yard, and I keep all my old engines as well for that purpose. The only thing I could think of that would cause such damage is if a valve dropped down. Hardly anyone rebuilds an engine these days, just either short block it or get a new unit. That's why there are so many throw-away mowers by the trash and in the dumps these days.

DaveTN said:

After reading all the posts I am wondering what got into the cylinder where the piston knocked the chunk out of it and the wall as well?

Click to expand...

I have seen "many" times where the small screws that hold the choke/throttle butterfly(s) to their shafts, come loose and get sucked into the engine. Sometimes I have found them stuck under the exhaust valve, preventing the valve from closing, and sometimes they score the cylinder.