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alright guys, so you have probably seen my other threads about this same mower, first i found it on side of road, the i brought it home, cleaned the carb, then it ran like a jewel for about 2 months, i don't even know why he threw it away, 5 speed tranny was smooth, engine ran like new, added with a new blade that thing cuts through tall grass like butter, and actually, i think it would give any 16hp+ engine a run for its money when cutting.
but about a week ago i was cutting somebody yard, and out of no where, it started to act all wonky, it was as if i were cutting, and i were to turn the ignition switch off, and right before the engine dies you switch the ignition back to "on", and it did that for about 10 seconds then it died.
i finished his yard with the push mower, brought it back home so i could take a look at it, i made sure everything was in neutral, ignition on, throttle on, tried to start it, wouldn't start, i pulled the plug, it looked fine, wasn't flooded or anything, i checked for spark, it had spark.
as you guys know i don't have a compression checker so i couldn't check for that......
i suspected it was a carb issue, but when i put a wee bit of gas in the throat of the carb, it wouldn't even try to run that way, not even with starting fluid.
what do you guys think the issue is?

model numbers:
_____________________________________________
on engine:

model: 286707
type: 4029-01
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code: 960607ZB
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on frame:

model: 5655
serial: 3001943
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once again, noticed this thread wasn't on the front page....so I'm posting this to keep it on the front page

okay guys, an update:
i went out today, and took the carb a part, and put it in the ultra sonic cleaner, for about 4, 8 minute cycles, let it dry, put it back together.
didn't over tighten anything, didn't strip anything, and i put it back together correctly.
put it back on, and it still wouldn't run after pulling about 30 times, with choke, with full throttle.
then i decided to try starting fluid and it ran, but for like a second
so I'm suspecting its a carb issue?
once again, what do you guys think is wrong?

You probably burnt too many bridges!!??

Debris in tank slowing/blocking fuel flow? You need to demonstrate engine will run by spraying fuel in carb throat every 2 secs. If you can get a 20 sec run, you know it's fuel delivery. Then, just buy a $15 AM carb.

dougand3 said:

If you can get a 20 sec run, you know it's fuel delivery.

Click to expand...

yes, i have done that, i actually got it to run fore more like 30 sec,

no debris in tank though, i took the line off the carb and gas spilled out the line, so the tank is flowing freely

Rivets said:

You probably burnt too many bridges!!??

Click to expand...

what that mean? ?

dougand3 said:

Then, just buy a $15 AM carb.

Click to expand...

i saw a name brand carb for my specific engine for about 100$, where'd you get 15 from?
I've had no luck with chinese/cheap carbs, in seedeaters, blowers, and push mowers, they never worked

Well, I've had good luck with cheap AM carbs 9 out of 10 times. Get your carb # and search ebay, amazon, etc. Probably 498027 or 499158. Pay attn to gravity fed or fuel pump carb.
Or pay $150 for an OEM carb.

soon...do you think i should get one?
you're right....they probably will make the motor run, but how good is durability?

and its not 150$ for OEM, its 100$

so I've decided I'm going to get a new carb for this engine, is it possible somebody could send me a link for the exact carb i need?
i can't seem to find it online....
model numbers are in post #1

Logert I’m posting in this thread because I’ve hyjacked that other thread for to long. You’ve said you are going to change too many times but don’t. You keep reverting back to trying to make everyone think you have the knowledge of an adult. I’ve told you many times how to change, but you don’t want to listen. I’ll bet you don’t have a clue that your posts have cost this forum two experienced techs, who stopped posting because they couldn’t put up with you. Three other techs are ignoring you for the same reason. Those are the bridges you have burned. You’ve lied to us so many times that we are sick of dealing with you. I’ll give you one more times the things I think you need to do to change how you are perceived on this forum.
1. Start by realizing that you are 13 and not 31, so your basic knowledge has a long way to go.
2. Stop lying about what you assume is right. If you have not actually experienced something you want to reply to, DONT REPLY. Better to keep your mouth shut, than to get caught lying.
3. I’ve told you to get some books and start reading them to increase your basic knowledge. You said you have a couple, but because of your past replies if you even have them you probably never read more than a couple of pages.
4. Start your learning small, no transmissions, hydros, twin cylinders, and electrical. You must really understand how the fuel, ignition and compression systems work before graduating the the tougher stuff. When you really understand how these three systems work by themselves and together, you can go on.
5. Expand your basic knowledge of how to compose a basic sentence and paragraphs. Things like capitalization, punctuation and composition will allow you to better present yourself and you would get a little more respect.
6. Also, by coming off as some one who doesn’t care if they don’t like you, because you should be able to bear arms and be patriotic, is silly. You have no idea of what being patriotic is or the responsibility of being able to own a gun means. You are just repeating something you think people will respect you for. Again I’ll say you’re 13, not 31.
7. Finally as I said, I’m done trying to help you after this post. The only time you will see me talking to you is when I see you posting something wrong, dangerous, or down right stupid. You want to earn back my respect, “ENGAGE YOUR BRAIN BEFORE TYPING ANYTHING ON THIS FORUM.
I hope you can do the things that you asked me to tell you, but I’m not holding my breath. I think you will see me fact checking your posts, then getting mad at me. I’ll use your line, I REALLY DON’T CARE.

Yes sir.

But what if I make a thread with is strictly about me learning things?
What I mean is I create the thread, and then i of course do a lot of research and home work, and then come back to that thread and explain " how the fuel, ignition and compression systems work."
And then maybe you could "fast check" me, and correct me on anything I've said that was false, and then try to explain to me what i got wrong. Do you know what I'm trying to say?
And I could also make a video of me sitting at a desk taking apart a carburetor, and naming the parts/pieces and explaining how it works, and then you of course "fast check" me, and correct me on anything that was false.

Maybe down the road I could also make another video of me taking apart a older engine i have laying around, and of course i identify the parts, and explain how it works, then you "fast check" me, and of course correct me, but id probably only do this once I've understood everything as you've just said.

So, i guess it could kind of be "small engine class?"
I don't know if you'd be willing to do that with me, but I know if you did I would be more then dedicated to it, even if it was just 5 min of your time a day.
Because as i see according to your signature, you used to be a small engine repair teacher, and I would greatly appreciate it, but as I have just said, it's your choice.

None of this until you can prove to me that it would be worth my time and effort to help you more. As I see from your post, you only want to change under your conditions. It doesn’t work that way at this point. Remember you burnt the bridge and at this point I’m not helping you rebuild it.