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Toro 20333 personal pace

#1

Steveog

Steveog

I’m very close to having my head pop off… I purchased a lawn mower on FB and have:
Replaced spark plug
Cleaned the carburetor completely(all jets blasted with cleaner and air)
Replaced air filter
Replaced oil
Mixed sea foam in with gas
Replaced the brake cable.

Once I got it to run it sounded rough very high RPM. I mowed for about 10 minutes and puff puff POP! It ran out of gas so I put more in and nothing. Checked the carburetor again got a new plug and then sprayed carb cleaner and tried starting it. And now it sounds like it doesn’t even want to turn over. I put my thumb over spark plug hole and got blow back. I checked spark plug and I get a spark. When I try to start it, it doesn’t sound like it wants to turn over and then it makes a little pop sometimes after spraying more carb cleaner. WHAT COULD IT BE?! I have to fix this now out of principal. Please help thanks y’all. I can take video and pics if needed.


#2

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

this your engine?
1627178858268.png


#3

B

bertsmobile1

Start with mechanical things that are either right or wrong
Timing key in flywheel and valve lash


#4

Steveog

Steveog

Scrubcadet10 said:
No, this one but not my picture. Can’t load the pics I took
Click to expand...

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#5

S

slomo

Air, fuel, spark and compression.

1.Remove fuel line AT carb. Drain into a glass jar. Should have a solid gravity flow. If not loosen gas cap and recheck. Might be a good idea to dump and clean the fuel tank.

2.Pressure test carburetor needle and seat. Video will explain it.


3.Take an old spark plug. Gap to 1/4" wide. Ground on engine block. Should have a nice blue spark. Don't forget to zip tie the dead man lever so it will spark. Spark yes or no?


Not related to a no start but.....

Remove metal engine shroud where starter rope is. CLEAN all under the flywheel, engine block and cooling fins. Look behind the muffler and around the oil sump breather plate. Remove all grit, grass and oil. A dirty oil layer will insulate the block and fins causing over heating. If you neglect this, engine damage will occur. THIS is a YEARLY maintenance item in ALL mower/small engine manuals.



Your engine has an air vane that operates the choke. There is a small adjustment on the muffler thermostatic arm. You center the silver muffler lever between the two marks. Air vane should move freely. When you move the vane, the choke should open and close.

VERIFY your choke is closed on a cold engine and OPENS when it warms. Remove the air filter and check to see if the choke plate is sticking CLOSED. If sticking tap on the choke plate with a small screwdriver. Should free it up. And if it is sticking, verify what is causing it to stick and fix it.

These are simple engines. Don't give up. We are here to help.

slomo


#6

S

slomo




slomo


#7

S

slomo

I'm guessing your choke plate is sticking closed.

slomo


#8

Steveog

Steveog

slomo said:
Air, fuel, spark and compression.

1.Remove fuel line AT carb. Drain into a glass jar. Should have a solid gravity flow. If not loosen gas cap and recheck. Might be a good idea to dump and clean the fuel tank.

2.Pressure test carburetor needle and seat. Video will explain it.


3.Take an old spark plug. Gap to 1/4" wide. Ground on engine block. Should have a nice blue spark. Don't forget to zip tie the dead man lever so it will spark. Spark yes or no?


Not related to a no start but.....

Remove metal engine shroud where starter rope is. CLEAN all under the flywheel, engine block and cooling fins. Look behind the muffler and around the oil sump breather plate. Remove all grit, grass and oil. A dirty oil layer will insulate the block and fins causing over heating. If you neglect this, engine damage will occur. THIS is a YEARLY maintenance item in ALL mower/small engine manuals.



Your engine has an air vane that operates the choke. There is a small adjustment on the muffler thermostatic arm. You center the silver muffler lever between the two marks. Air vane should move freely. When you move the vane, the choke should open and close.

VERIFY your choke is closed on a cold engine and OPENS when it warms. Remove the air filter and check to see if the choke plate is sticking CLOSED. If sticking tap on the choke plate with a small screwdriver. Should free it up. And if it is sticking, verify what is causing it to stick and fix it.

These are simple engines. Don't give up. We are here to help.

slomo
Click to expand...
Just need to say… you are awesome! Going to have another shot at it today. I will update. Thanks for the info


#9

Steveog

Steveog

slomo said:
I'm guessing your choke plate is sticking closed.

slomo
Click to expand...
Why won’t it start when I spray carb cleaner though?


#10

Steveog

Steveog

I’ve sprayed carb cleaner in the carburetor and it still won’t even attempt to start. I’m going to check the on off switch. This is making me crazy and my right arm is going to look like Popeyes arm haha


#11

S

slomo

Steveog said:
I’ve sprayed carb cleaner in the carburetor and it still won’t even attempt to start. I’m going to check the on off switch. This is making me crazy and my right arm is going to look like Popeyes arm haha
Click to expand...
Yes confirm spark and fuel delivery.

If the choke is stuck on, it will be hard starting. It's giving the engine too much fuel.

Remove the air filter. LOOK at the choke plate. It's the closest brass round disk looking back at you. You will have to look around that white plastic finger piece to see the choke plate. Take a small screwdriver and OPEN the choke plate. Pull the rope. Or move the air vane arm so the choke will OPEN.

slomo


#12

R

Rich M.

Did the OP ever answer if the flywheel key was checked?

The last time I had a starting issue I did not think it was the flywheel key. Guess what, it was a broken flywheel key.


#13

S

slomo

Rich M. said:
Did the OP ever answer if the flywheel key was checked?

The last time I had a starting issue I did not think it was the flywheel key. Guess what, it was a broken flywheel key.
Click to expand...
Haven't heard on that one. Good point though. Easy check to rule that one out.

slomo


#14

R

Richard Milhous

Air, fuel, spark, compression... TIMING. If the flywheel key is bent/broken but the flywheel hasn't shifted much, you get an advanced spark that causes raging idle speed but knocking at higher speeds. Let the flywheel shift a little further and it's no-start territory.


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