I appreciate the wisdom. I am new to the game. I have fumbled my way through an engine swap, a needle and seat issue, battery issues, tire issues, some unknown gas leak and all have been accomplished mostly through this site and some You-Tube videos. While I am not exactly sure I have a cam shaft issue I hope to find out today or tomorrow. I do like working on these engines and think I could pull off a cam shaft change, or not, we will see!I can tell you are new to this repair game so I’ll give you a bit of advice. First, stop with the u-tube videos, the guy you referred to, in your first post, shouldn’t be allowed to post. Second, you would do a lot better off finding an online service manual and down load it. Personally I don’t go after ACR until I’ve ruled out everything else. I don’t open up engines unless I have to. Just the thoughts of a retired and tired instructor.
When I removed the spark plug to turn the engine by hand, it turned easier. The spark plug was not wet. In the past I had a needle and seat issue and I installed a fuel shut off. When I replaced the needle and seat I still used the fuel shutoff every time I turn the mower off (I even run it out of gas just to be extra safe). I don't think I have a hydrolock issue anymore. I will make sure it turns over with the spark plug removed tomorrow.pull the spark plugs and see if it turns over easy. If so then the problem is too much compression. Adjusting the valves isn't likely to change that much, in fact if they were tight then you might end up with more compression. If it still binds with the plugs out then you have some other kind of problem. And it fuel squirts out the plug hole then it was hydrolocked with fuel bleeding past the carb(s).
The whole secret to learning on YouTube is patience, finding the right teachers, and lots of months and years of practice. The old timers and mentors are simply not there in person to help like they were years ago.I've been doing Mechanical work for 50 plus years and still reshearch things on Utube as well as on this site and am still learning some things - with the experience I have I can quickly weed out the BOZOs from the guys that actually know what they're talking about.
I can see where someone with less experience could get led down the wrong path.
This site has a lot of experience and input available and is nice to learn new trouble shooting ideas etc.
You can never get too focused on one path on a problem because you'll miss what's really going on I've learned not to rule out anything as I've been surprised often .
Once you've verified your valve settings, remove remove your air cleaner and put a piece of cardboard or the like over the intake tube. If she cranks and starts, it's your compression release. Very simple to check without going nuts.17.5hp IC
model 31C707-0154-E1
I bought this engine used and used it 3 seasons now. last year it became hard to start. turning the motor by hand past the compression stroke was difficult and thats where it would hang up when I tried top start it.
of the 5 times I started it this season it would only start 2 times on the first try. If I put my battery charger on it I can get it to start. Battery is testing at 12.8 volts and is charging close to 16 when its running.
I went to adjust the valves today. There was more oil then I expected in the valve cover. Maybe 1/2 a cup. The valves were very tight. No gap at all at top dead center. I re-gapped them. guy on you-tube working on the same engine said 6 thousandths on the top and 10 thousandths on the bottom. That's what I did. When I put it back together it did not start, it hung up in the same place as before in the compression stroke.
The motor was even harder to turn then before. almost impossible to turn it by hand.
What do I need to look at next?
I too would like to know how you can have too much compression.In My opinion there is no such thing as Too Much Compression , never saw it in over 50 years on working on all sorts of machine
Once you get valves set right, intake .003-.005 and exhaust .005-.007 try it if still to much you may have a bad decompression release requiring a camshaft replacement.17.5hp IC
model 31C707-0154-E1
I bought this engine used and used it 3 seasons now. last year it became hard to start. turning the motor by hand past the compression stroke was difficult and thats where it would hang up when I tried top start it.
of the 5 times I started it this season it would only start 2 times on the first try. If I put my battery charger on it I can get it to start. Battery is testing at 12.8 volts and is charging close to 16 when its running.
I went to adjust the valves today. There was more oil then I expected in the valve cover. Maybe 1/2 a cup. The valves were very tight. No gap at all at top dead center. I re-gapped them. guy on you-tube working on the same engine said 6 thousandths on the top and 10 thousandths on the bottom. That's what I did. When I put it back together it did not start, it hung up in the same place as before in the compression stroke.
The motor was even harder to turn then before. almost impossible to turn it by hand.
What do I need to look at next?
I service a lot of mowers and have had to replace several cams. If it had no valve gap meaning the valves were being held open, it should have turned over easy. The less gap you have the easier it should turn over. That being said which from your description it sounds like at some point someone before you got the engine, adjusted the valves real tight to make it start easier. Because cam wear makes the gap larger the only ways they could be too tight is someone adjusted them too tight, the push rod guides are worn, or the cam bearings/bushings have caused the case to wear and, in some way, caused the cam to be positioned closer to the head which is most unlikely. One other thing to check before tearing engine down is the push rod guides, if the (plastic in some cases) guide is worn it can allow the push rod to move out of position and tighten the valves. I have seen this too but, in most cases, it will come out from in under the lifter.17.5hp IC
model 31C707-0154-E1
I bought this engine used and used it 3 seasons now. last year it became hard to start. turning the motor by hand past the compression stroke was difficult and thats where it would hang up when I tried top start it.
of the 5 times I started it this season it would only start 2 times on the first try. If I put my battery charger on it I can get it to start. Battery is testing at 12.8 volts and is charging close to 16 when its running.
I went to adjust the valves today. There was more oil then I expected in the valve cover. Maybe 1/2 a cup. The valves were very tight. No gap at all at top dead center. I re-gapped them. guy on you-tube working on the same engine said 6 thousandths on the top and 10 thousandths on the bottom. That's what I did. When I put it back together it did not start, it hung up in the same place as before in the compression stroke.
The motor was even harder to turn then before. almost impossible to turn it by hand.
What do I need to look at next?
There is another problem you could have that you need to check if your tear the engine down and that is the valves themselves to insure they are not sticking and slide freely. To do this you need to remove the valve springs. the valves should not have to be pushed in and out they should fall using only their own weight. If you have to push them then carbon build up in the valve guide has to be cleaned out.I service a lot of mowers and have had to replace several cams. If it had no valve gap meaning the valves were being held open, it should have turned over easy. The less gap you have the easier it should turn over. That being said which from your description it sounds like at some point someone before you got the engine, adjusted the valves real tight to make it start easier. Because cam wear makes the gap larger the only ways they could be too tight is someone adjusted them too tight, the push rod guides are worn, or the cam bearings/bushings have caused the case to wear and, in some way, caused the cam to be positioned closer to the head which is most unlikely. One other thing to check before tearing engine down is the push rod guides, if the (plastic in some cases) guide is worn it can allow the push rod to move out of position and tighten the valves. I have seen this too but, in most cases, it will come out from in under the lifter.
These engines depend on everything being right for them to run correctly.
What I would do in this case (if the push rod guides are good) is to remove the engine and take it apart so I could inspect the cam and can bearing/bushings. Also, if the cam is shown to be worn or the relief is not working you should check the oil pump to make sure it is pumping oil good and has no wear. Because something caused that cam wear or relief problem. Another thing is to look at the cam follower which is caps that ride against the cam and make sure they are free moving.
This sounds like a worn cam that the valves have been adjusted tighter or the push rod guides have worn and allowed the push rod to come out of the indent in the lifter and not completely out from under the lifter.
If valves are set correctly and you still have high compression it's your compression release on the cam shaft.. with plug out and justbefore TDC your exhaust vale should bump open a tad to allow compression out for fire up.. if it's a briggs 17.5 intek they are famous for cam issues.. always be sure to check you don't have a snagged belt on transmission or deck too..17.5hp IC
model 31C707-0154-E1
I bought this engine used and used it 3 seasons now. last year it became hard to start. turning the motor by hand past the compression stroke was difficult and thats where it would hang up when I tried top start it.
of the 5 times I started it this season it would only start 2 times on the first try. If I put my battery charger on it I can get it to start. Battery is testing at 12.8 volts and is charging close to 16 when its running.
I went to adjust the valves today. There was more oil then I expected in the valve cover. Maybe 1/2 a cup. The valves were very tight. No gap at all at top dead center. I re-gapped them. guy on you-tube working on the same engine said 6 thousandths on the top and 10 thousandths on the bottom. That's what I did. When I put it back together it did not start, it hung up in the same place as before in the compression stroke.
The motor was even harder to turn then before. almost impossible to turn it by hand.
What do I need to look at next?
you got some wrong info too much clearance on your exhaust valve is what's causing "too much compression" and it's not that it's too much it's just not hitting the compression release set intake (aluminum push rod) to .004" that inches. set exhaust (steel push rod) to .006" INCHES......oil in the cover is expected. if your problem persists, the camshaft's decompression mechanism is probably broken. after you adjust the valves again roll the engine over by hand and you should see a "bump" on the exhaust valve as you come up on the compression stroke.17.5hp IC
model 31C707-0154-E1
I bought this engine used and used it 3 seasons now. last year it became hard to start. turning the motor by hand past the compression stroke was difficult and thats where it would hang up when I tried top start it.
of the 5 times I started it this season it would only start 2 times on the first try. If I put my battery charger on it I can get it to start. Battery is testing at 12.8 volts and is charging close to 16 when its running.
I went to adjust the valves today. There was more oil then I expected in the valve cover. Maybe 1/2 a cup. The valves were very tight. No gap at all at top dead center. I re-gapped them. guy on you-tube working on the same engine said 6 thousandths on the top and 10 thousandths on the bottom. That's what I did. When I put it back together it did not start, it hung up in the same place as before in the compression stroke.
The motor was even harder to turn then before. almost impossible to turn it by hand.
What do I need to look at next?
Good info, knew they were there to make money, the timing of the skit I did not know, very informative and yes Taryl is very good.I will guess that you set the valve lash at TDC on the exhaust stroke and not on the compression stroke.
A common mistake we all make every now & then
So from scratch rotate the engine and watch the valves move with the spark plug removed
The lower ( inlet valve) should close ( rocker goes loose ) just after BDC then stay like that all the way till just before TDC when it opens a very tiny amount to decompress
The engine should then fire so both valves will be closed ( both rockers loose ) all the way to BDC when the Exhaust valve ( top one ) should open and stay open all the way to TDC where the inlet opens and then the exhaust closes .
The inlet remains open all the way to BDC then closes and you are back to the beginning.
The other trick that confuses people is you adjust the valve lash with the big nut and use the torx grub screw to lock the big nut .
If you are new to this it is a good idea to adjust the valves then run the engine for a few minutes ( messy ) then let it cool down stone cold and check them again .
Do not worry if you have to do them 4, 5 or 6 timed till you get the feel of it .
As for You tube videos forget most of the menstural clots you have been looking at.
I would bet that they are paying some computer hackers in India a lot of money so their trash videos come up first in any google search.
Remember every time you look at one of them some makes a cent or two
The only 2 I recommend are Taryl Fixes All & Donny Boy 87
Skip the first 30 seconds of Taryls videos if you do not find school boy humour funny
It is a ploy to make him more money.
You tube requires a viewer to be there for 15 seconds and if you time the preview followed by the animated title page than comes on before they start providing any information you wil see they all go better than 15 sec
From then on in they get credit for each block of time you stay there , usually in 30 sec incriments
None of them are there for your benefit
The brain dead ego maniacs are there to increase their self esteem and all the rest are there to make money and solicit free goods .
Always adjust valves on a cold engine.I enjoy Taryl's videos but could do with less of the off-topic theatrics. Just the facts, mam. I've watched quite a few of them and am going to attempt a fluid change on a hydro-static tuff-torq transmission soon on a Husqvarna mower I bought for $25.
Re: the valve adjustment; do you do that on a warm or cold engine the first time? I know you should run it after the adjustment and check again but the first adjustment, warm or cold engine?
I had the same problem and fixed it by loosening the valve lash. Put a compression gauge in it and watched as I loosened the lash. Didn't have to add to much lash to get the compression up. Started really easy. I have had the worst problems with compression release on the Kawasaki's.17.5hp IC
model 31C707-0154-E1
I bought this engine used and used it 3 seasons now. last year it became hard to start. turning the motor by hand past the compression stroke was difficult and thats where it would hang up when I tried top start it.
of the 5 times I started it this season it would only start 2 times on the first try. If I put my battery charger on it I can get it to start. Battery is testing at 12.8 volts and is charging close to 16 when its running.
I went to adjust the valves today. There was more oil then I expected in the valve cover. Maybe 1/2 a cup. The valves were very tight. No gap at all at top dead center. I re-gapped them. guy on you-tube working on the same engine said 6 thousandths on the top and 10 thousandths on the bottom. That's what I did. When I put it back together it did not start, it hung up in the same place as before in the compression stroke.
The motor was even harder to turn then before. almost impossible to turn it by hand.
What do I need to look at next?
It's very possible because the ACR on these Briggs & Stratton engines is an absolute joke! They should have fixed the problem long ago but Briggs basically refuses to fix anything of their inferior quality designs.I am pretty sure I understand how to adjust the valves. I am good with that.
So after watching a couple videos, I am wondering if the compression release and cam shaft are not working properly.
when starting the engine it gets caught up on the compression stroke. I need to double check, but I think the bottom valve does not move like the top valve.
The engine is almost 20 years old and I got it used.
Could I have a cam shaft/ compression release issue? How would I know for sure?
17.5hp IC
model 31C707-0154-E1
I bought this engine used and used it 3 seasons now. last year it became hard to start. turning the motor by hand past the compression stroke was difficult and thats where it would hang up when I tried top start it.
of the 5 times I started it this season it would only start 2 times on the first try. If I put my battery charger on it I can get it to start. Battery is testing at 12.8 volts and is charging close to 16 when its running.
I went to adjust the valves today. There was more oil then I expected in the valve cover. Maybe 1/2 a cup. The valves were very tight. No gap at all at top dead center. I re-gapped them. guy on you-tube working on the same engine said 6 thousandths on the top and 10 thousandths on the bottom. That's what I did. When I put it back together it did not start, it hung up in the same place as before in the compression stroke.
The motor was even harder to turn then before. almost impossible to turn it by hand.
What do I need to look at next?
Hi . If it is a Briggs & Stratton INTEK engine you will most probably find that the decompression mechanism fitted to the camshaft has broken. They are prone to this. What this mechanism does is it lifts the exhaust valve very slightly to reduce the compression on starting. When the engine starts the mechanism drops out and the engine runs normal. If this device fails there is too much compression for the starter to turn it over. I hope this helps17.5hp IC
model 31C707-0154-E1
I bought this engine used and used it 3 seasons now. last year it became hard to start. turning the motor by hand past the compression stroke was difficult and thats where it would hang up when I tried top start it.
of the 5 times I started it this season it would only start 2 times on the first try. If I put my battery charger on it I can get it to start. Battery is testing at 12.8 volts and is charging close to 16 when its running.
I went to adjust the valves today. There was more oil then I expected in the valve cover. Maybe 1/2 a cup. The valves were very tight. No gap at all at top dead center. I re-gapped them. guy on you-tube working on the same engine said 6 thousandths on the top and 10 thousandths on the bottom. That's what I did. When I put it back together it did not start, it hung up in the same place as before in the compression stroke.
The motor was even harder to turn then before. almost impossible to turn it by hand.
What do I need to look at next?
Most likely the compression release on the cam is broken. If engine turns over easy with the plug out then it's the CR. Common on OHV single cyl B&S. To verify turn the engine over(with the plug in) by hand past the compression stroke and then attempt to key start. If it starts or spins freely to the next compression stroke you know it's the CR. Remove the engine, remove the oil sump pan & remove the cam. The release spring will be broken. New cam comes with the release assembly. Don't attempt to repair the spring. It can be a bit expensive with the new cam, gasket(s), oil etc. Might be cheaper to look for another motor.17.5hp IC
model 31C707-0154-E1
I bought this engine used and used it 3 seasons now. last year it became hard to start. turning the motor by hand past the compression stroke was difficult and thats where it would hang up when I tried top start it.
of the 5 times I started it this season it would only start 2 times on the first try. If I put my battery charger on it I can get it to start. Battery is testing at 12.8 volts and is charging close to 16 when its running.
I went to adjust the valves today. There was more oil then I expected in the valve cover. Maybe 1/2 a cup. The valves were very tight. No gap at all at top dead center. I re-gapped them. guy on you-tube working on the same engine said 6 thousandths on the top and 10 thousandths on the bottom. That's what I did. When I put it back together it did not start, it hung up in the same place as before in the compression stroke.
The motor was even harder to turn then before. almost impossible to turn it by hand.
What do I need to look at next?
Sure that it's compression or is something broken in the engine.17.5hp IC
model 31C707-0154-E1
I bought this engine used and used it 3 seasons now. last year it became hard to start. turning the motor by hand past the compression stroke was difficult and thats where it would hang up when I tried top start it.
of the 5 times I started it this season it would only start 2 times on the first try. If I put my battery charger on it I can get it to start. Battery is testing at 12.8 volts and is charging close to 16 when its running.
I went to adjust the valves today. There was more oil then I expected in the valve cover. Maybe 1/2 a cup. The valves were very tight. No gap at all at top dead center. I re-gapped them. guy on you-tube working on the same engine said 6 thousandths on the top and 10 thousandths on the bottom. That's what I did. When I put it back together it did not start, it hung up in the same place as before in the compression stroke.
The motor was even harder to turn then before. almost impossible to turn it by hand.
What do I need to look at next?
Sounds like you have a mechanical problem to me. Remove the plugs then see if it's still hard to turn over.17.5hp IC
model 31C707-0154-E1
I bought this engine used and used it 3 seasons now. last year it became hard to start. turning the motor by hand past the compression stroke was difficult and thats where it would hang up when I tried top start it.
of the 5 times I started it this season it would only start 2 times on the first try. If I put my battery charger on it I can get it to start. Battery is testing at 12.8 volts and is charging close to 16 when its running.
I went to adjust the valves today. There was more oil then I expected in the valve cover. Maybe 1/2 a cup. The valves were very tight. No gap at all at top dead center. I re-gapped them. guy on you-tube working on the same engine said 6 thousandths on the top and 10 thousandths on the bottom. That's what I did. When I put it back together it did not start, it hung up in the same place as before in the compression stroke.
The motor was even harder to turn then before. almost impossible to turn it by hand.
What do I need to look at next?
Try starting a Briggs with a worn camshaft, or a two-stroke with carbon build-up on the head and piston, and you will find out first-hand about compression.In My opinion there is no such thing as Too Much Compression , never saw it in over 50 years on working on all sorts of machine
When the valve face and valve seats in the head wear, the clearance is reduced.I service a lot of mowers and have had to replace several cams. If it had no valve gap meaning the valves were being held open, it should have turned over easy. The less gap you have the easier it should turn over. That being said which from your description it sounds like at some point someone before you got the engine, adjusted the valves real tight to make it start easier. Because cam wear makes the gap larger the only ways they could be too tight is someone adjusted them too tight, the push rod guides are worn, or the cam bearings/bushings have caused the case to wear and, in some way, caused the cam to be positioned closer to the head which is most unlikely. One other thing to check before tearing engine down is the push rod guides, if the (plastic in some cases) guide is worn it can allow the push rod to move out of position and tighten the valves. I have seen this too but, in most cases, it will come out from in under the lifter.
These engines depend on everything being right for them to run correctly.
What I would do in this case (if the push rod guides are good) is to remove the engine and take it apart so I could inspect the cam and can bearing/bushings. Also, if the cam is shown to be worn or the relief is not working you should check the oil pump to make sure it is pumping oil good and has no wear. Because something caused that cam wear or relief problem. Another thing is to look at the cam follower which is caps that ride against the cam and make sure they are free moving.
This sounds like a worn cam that the valves have been adjusted tighter or the push rod guides have worn and allowed the push rod to come out of the indent in the lifter and not completely out from under the lifter.
What's a shop manual?Does no one have a B&S shop manual?
Manual says remove plug bring piston to TDC. Insert screw driver, turn PAST tdc 1/4 inch then adjust.
Solved my starting problem.
A "Shop Manual", is what you put under your beer, so that you don't get white rings on the coffee table.What's a shop manual?
Good to know!A "Shop Manual", is what you put under your beer, so that you don't get white rings on the coffee table.
That is my exact engine and my exact issue, but If the mower keeps starting, I will keep pushing that fix back.It has nothing to do with the valves.
Briggs & Stratton
17.5hp Intek IC
model 31C707-0154-E1
I bought this engine used and used it 3 seasons now. last year it became hard to start. turning the motor by hand past the compression stroke was difficult and thats where it would hang up when I tried top start it.
of the 5 times I started it this season it would only start 2 times on the first try. If I put my battery charger on it I can get it to start. Battery is testing at 12.8 volts and is charging close to 16 when its running.
I went to adjust the valves today. There was more oil then I expected in the valve cover. Maybe 1/2 a cup. The valves were very tight. No gap at all at top dead center. I re-gapped them. guy on you-tube working on the same engine said 6 thousandths on the top and 10 thousandths on the bottom. That's what I did. When I put it back together it did not start, it hung up in the same place as before in the compression stroke.
The motor was even harder to turn then before. almost impossible to turn it by hand.
What do I need to look at next?