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I have a Liberty Z 48" with the ZT 2800 Hydro Gears. I will soon be draining the oil from the Hydros, which I understand can take as long as 2-3 hours. I was thinking to speed up the process, I may try to use my Shop Vac as a blower into the reservoir, but am concerned about damaging any seals or other sensitive parts. Any thoughts are appreciated.

BTBO said:

I have a Liberty Z 48" with the ZT 2800 Hydro Gears. I will soon be draining the oil from the Hydros, which I understand can take as long as 2-3 hours. I was thinking to speed up the process, I may try to use my Shop Vac as a blower into the reservoir, but am concerned about damaging any seals or other sensitive parts. Any thoughts are appreciated.

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Do not blow them out. When you get the filter off, it will drain out pretty quick.
It doesn’t take that long to drain them. It takes longer to fill them.
You can pump the oil in on the inside fill plugs to speed up the process. That can be a bit messy, if you’re not prepared.

MParr said:

Do not blow them out. When you get the filter off, it will drain out pretty quick.
It doesn’t take that long to drain them. It takes longer to fill them.
You can pump the oil in on the inside fill plugs to speed up the process. That can be a bit messy, if you’re not prepared.

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Thanks MParr--I saw the same video. I know Scag sells a fill kit with a pump that connects to a quart jug. If it's not too costly, I may go that route, and refill with Amsoil synthetic hydro oil.

BTBO said:

and refill with Amsoil synthetic hydro oil.

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I thought the Hydro Gear 2800 called for 20w-50 motor oil

BTBO said:

Thanks MParr--I saw the same video. I know Scag sells a fill kit with a pump that connects to a quart jug. If it's not too costly, I may go that route, and refill with Amsoil synthetic hydro oil.

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Any 20W50 will work. I like to use a 20W50 with high zinc additives.Some people like to use Mobil 1 15W50. A 5 quart jug should be all you need. Each hydro holds about 73 ounces. You can buy the pumps on Amazon, EBay and etc.

Nice!! My dealer told me that Scag did not do manuals anymore, everything was online!

George

Gcorron said:

Nice!! My dealer told me that Scag did not do manuals anymore, everything was online!

George

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George- I think you got BS'd, at least I got all my manuals when I got my 2021 Liberty, in May. Even 2 T-shirts ..

And as Scag reps stated on an online you-tube meeting, if one does use a Full Synthetic 20w-50, they should do it Early, & NEVER use anything else after the switch.

Like MParr said.Screw the filters off and drains pretty quick. I watched the video and it was a pretty good video. But it looks like the guy had a death wish. If I were doing it like that I would use jack stands. I am luck in that we have a lift. That is the way I do them at works does not take 2 to 3 hours. Any time you open up a hydro clean the area around the opening first. I use the Kawasaki 20W-50 engine oil. High zinc and high heat oil.
Zinc-based hydraulic oil is widely used for a number of reasons. Under boundary conditions, a sacrificial layer of anti-wear additive (typically zinc-based) is established on the load-bearing surface of machine components to help protect against the results of friction. Anti-wear additives are most effective in moderate to severe load applications.

The latest offerings for Liberty have no expansion tank. It has a fill cap on top of each wheel motor. So that makes it simpler yet.
And I'll be using Kawasaki 20w-50 semi for my pumps @ 50 hours. Instead of the books listing of 1st 100 hours. Kinda like the early engine oil change.

7394 said:

The latest offerings for Liberty have no expansion tank. It has a fill cap on top of each wheel motor. So that makes it simpler yet.
And I'll be using Kawasaki 20w-50 semi for my pumps @ 50 hours. Instead of the books listing of 1st 100 hours. Kinda like the early engine oil change.

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Valvoline VR1 20W50 is loaded with ZDDP.

Ever since we published Valvoline 20W-50 VR1 Synthetic Engine Oil review, we have received a lot of emails about the oil’s performance in regular cars. If you are enticed by the “Racing” label and plan on using the oil for your daily use car, don’t do it. Just don’t. Period.
Okay, since it says racing oil on the product packaging, people believe that the oil will bestow some kind of magical properties on regular car engines. If you are under the impression that Valvoline VR1 will act like Red Bull for your family car, then it’s not going to happen. At best, the engine oil will cease to perform and acquire the shape of solid sludge. As a result, the car engine’s RPM will be affected to a great extent.
Alternatively, if you own a street-legal variant of a racing car, then go for the gray-colored bottle of Valvoline VR1 engine oil. This product description on this bottle mentions that the oil can be used on street-legal sports/ race cars for up to 3,000 Miles between average oil change intervals.
I don't think that is what I want to run in my hydros.

MParr- thanks for the 411.

I have 5 year warranty. So we shall see..
$28.99 for 5 qt jug of VR1 (Gray bottle), just slightly higher priced than the Kaw branded semi oil.

I do not intend to swap to full synthetic for my hydros, as the VR1 in black bottle is. I believe.
.

hlw49 said:

Ever since we published Valvoline 20W-50 VR1 Synthetic Engine Oil review, we have received a lot of emails about the oil’s performance in regular cars. If you are enticed by the “Racing” label and plan on using the oil for your daily use car, don’t do it. Just don’t. Period.
Okay, since it says racing oil on the product packaging, people believe that the oil will bestow some kind of magical properties on regular car engines. If you are under the impression that Valvoline VR1 will act like Red Bull for your family car, then it’s not going to
happen. At best, the engine oil will cease to perform and acquire the shape of solid sludge. As a result, the car engine’s RPM will be
affected to a great extent.
Alternatively, if you own a street-legal variant of a racing car, then go for the gray-colored bottle of Valvoline VR1 engine oil. This product description on this bottle mentions that the oil can be used on street-legal sports/ race cars for up to 3,000 Miles between average oil change intervals.

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I was specifically talking about the hydros.

7394 said:

MParr- thanks for the 411.

I have 5 year warranty. So we shall see..
$28.99 for 5 qt jug of VR1 (Gray bottle), just slightly higher priced than the Kaw branded semi oil.

I do not intend to swap to full synthetic for my hydros, as the VR1 in black bottle is. I believe.
.

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I was talking about the hydros. Yes, the gray bottle is conventional and perfectly fine for the hydros.
The VR-1 full synthetic is in the black bottle.
Here’s the product data sheet for the VR-1 Conventional

Yes Hydros.. I will study the properties.

VR1 (gray bottle) has more zinc & phosphorus than the T4 Rotella 15w-40 has, I used to use that for the engine in my Toro.

7394 said:

Yes Hydros.. I will study the properties.

VR1 (gray bottle) has more zinc & phosphorus than the T4 Rotella 15w-40 has, I used to use that for the engine in my Toro.

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If you like to use a high zinc high phosphorus 15W40 diesel oil in your engine, Motorcraft Super Duty 15W40 is the one.

I'll have to look & compare that to the Rotella.

I'm sticking to the Kawasaki brand oil, for now, & since I have some.