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Timing a Kohler K321

#1

C

coinman66

I know the specs call for .020 on the points, but what if the engine has a lot of hours on it? Would the settings lean towards over the .020 or under like .015 or something? Anybody have any experience with this? At .020 the engine has trouble starting and seems to backfire out muffler and carburetor.


#2

R

Rivets

First, check the flywheel key to make sure it is not sheared. Even a small cut could cause backfiring. I now set the point gap on the older engines at .018" and have had no problems.


#3

C

coinman66

Rivets said:
First, check the flywheel key to make sure it is not sheared. Even a small cut could cause backfiring. I now set the point gap on the older engines at .018" and have had no problems.
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Ya know I never thought of that. Thanks ibwill be checking soon. I bet your right though.


#4

R

Rivets

Also check your carb. If it is set too rich backfiring through both the carb and muffler can occur. Easy way to see if it is running rich, look at the plug, heavy black color indicates a rich condition.


#5

C

coinman66

Rivets said:
Also check your carb. If it is set too rich backfiring through both the carb and muffler can occur. Easy way to see if it is running rich, look at the plug, heavy black color indicates a rich condition.
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So screw the high idle screw in a little more?
The plug looked dark. I'm still leaning towards the flywheel key. I'm pretty good at tuning the carb, but can't get it to come out of it.


#6

reynoldston

reynoldston

Have you checked your valve adjustments?


#7

C

coinman66

reynoldston said:
Have you checked your valve adjustments?
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No I havent, but engine was running decent just a few weeks ago. I still think it's a timing issue or flywheel key. Wish it would warm up outside so I can check it out.


#8

C

cashman

If it has a battery ignition, you actually use a timing light to set the points gap on those engines. The points gap could be anywhere from .016" to .024" depending on the camshaft and push rod wear. There is a timing sight hole on the carb side of the blower housing and a timing mark on the flywheel. If you do it this way you will dial it in correctly. The service manual has the procedure listed in it.


#9

C

coinman66

cashman said:
If it has a battery ignition, you actually use a timing light to set the points gap on those engines. The points gap could be anywhere from .016" to .024" depending on the camshaft and push rod wear. There is a timing sight hole on the carb side of the blower housing and a timing mark on the flywheel. If you do it this way you will dial it in correctly. The service manual has the procedure listed in it.
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Yah I don't have a timing light. But what I do is rotate the flywheel until points open fully, then rotate a hair more and when they just start to close, that's when I set them with feeler guage. I have had success with other engines this way, but this one is giving me fits. That's why I'm thinking sheared flywheel key?


#10

reynoldston

reynoldston

You adjust the points when they are fully open. It fires when they do open and you want the piston around .050 BTDC at this point or also that engine must have taming marks. Not that big of a job to check the key just remove the flywheel. I find then the keyway is striped it doesn't run at all. Just why do you think the key is striped, did you hit something or take it apart and didn't torque the flywheel proper so check it out. Because of the backfiring is the reason I think more of a valve adjustment and also you said the engine has a lot of hours on it.


#11

C

coinman66

reynoldston said:
You adjust the points when they are fully open. It fires when they do open and you want the piston around .050 BTDC at this point or also that engine must have taming marks. Not that big of a job to check the key just remove the flywheel. I find then the keyway is striped it doesn't run at all. Just why do you think the key is striped, did you hit something or take it apart and didn't torque the flywheel proper so check it out. Because of the backfiring is the reason I think more of a valve adjustment and also you said the engine has a lot of hours on it.
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I will go ahead and check the valves before the flywheel key.


#12

C

coinman66

To set the valves do I put piston on TDC?


#13

BlazNT

BlazNT

TDC on compression stroke.


#14

C

coinman66

BlazNT said:
TDC on compression stroke.
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Hell maybe that's what I'm doing wrong lol?


#15

R

Rivets

This manual might help you out.
https://www.kohler-engine-parts.opeengines.com/pub/TP-2379.pdf


#16

C

coinman66

Rivets said:
This manual might help you out.
https://www.kohler-engine-parts.opeengines.com/pub/TP-2379.pdf
Click to expand...


Yes it will help. Thanks Rivets


#17

C

coinman66

Ok just adjusted valves. Exhaust is supposed to be .017-.019 and I could fit a .022 in gap. Intake is supposed to be .007-.009 and I could get a .011 in gap. Both adjusted now. Also I have the head off and I get some piston rock in cylinder. Suppose this could be the problem too? There was quite a bit of oil in crankcase chamber. Maybe this is from valves being off? Not sure but I will try and start tomorrow.


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