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The new box I got yesterday, wasn't big enough to fit all the tools from my dads old Snap-On and MB Century top box. So, I'm going to start on the MB Century first.
I've been watching a lot of old toolbox restoration video's, some turn out pretty nice. But these boxes are going to left to my youngest son, So I wanna do it up better than Krylon.

The harbor freight sand blaster looks petty decent.
But the drawbacks, imo would be the amount of sand I'd need to do the whole toolbox. Plus I only have a mid size air compressor.
I did figure I could build plastic walls in my back work area, just big enough to maneuver around in, and reuse the glass.
This bead blaster looks a LOT more effective in the tight corners. And a lot faster than any of the other methods I've seen so far.
But I'm still not sold on the glass beads yet. I've heard of walnut or Pecan shell beads work just as well, and are a lot better for the environment. Not that I care too much about that. I'm no tree hugger. And I'm only doing 2 tool boxes.

Anyways, I'm just looking for ideas.

My brother, who a construction painter, says he can get any kind of paint. Better stuff than Krylon spray paint. And paint it from his spray rig.

Do them in the full POR 15 treatment that will still be pristine when your kids hand them on to their grandkids
If done properly bullets bounce off POR15 and it will never ever rust
It is what true professionals use on vintage & veteran chassis

bertsmobile1 said:

Do them in the full POR 15 treatment that will still be pristine when your kids hand them on to their grandkids
If done properly bullets bounce off POR15 and it will never ever rust
It is what true professionals use on vintage & veteran chassis

Click to expand...

You mean this product? It looks amazing. Especially the finish.

Here's their website. $30 for the kit. Not bad.

See, myself, I don't like anything that you encapsulate over rust.

I prefer to scuff the part, convert the rust, prime and paint. Too much effort though for most people.

Looks like a cool project.

slomo said:

See, myself, I don't like anything that you encapsulate over rust.

I prefer to scuff the part, convert the rust, prime and paint. Too much effort though for most people.

Looks like a cool project.

Click to expand...

This POR has rust remover in the kit. From what I understand, you clean off the heavy stuff with a wire brush to sand paper. Then apply the cleaner, then they rust remover. As it's drying, it seals it off with some kind of chemical. Then apply the paint.

I'm hoping this won't take long. According to what I'm seeing with the POR15, it's a quick process. But one you have to complete from start to finish within a day. Especially the rust remover part of it. You have to keep it wet for a certain amount of time.
And the painting also. You have to apply a thin coat, then wait a few minutes for it to get between tacky and dry, then apply another coat. Otherwise, if you wait too long, you'll have to scuff up the first layer before applying the 2nd.

It looks like maybe 2 hours from start to finish.

Yes that is the stuff.
The actual chassis paint is a furane resin that chemically combines with the water on the micro rust that the cleaner promotes happening ( you need a macro scope to see this ) and thus is chemically bonded to the surface forever .
It is a bugger to get off so be careful where you do it'
It is around the viscosity of paint thinners so will wick into things like seams but will also splash everywhere .
Brushes will be throw aways so do not use your $ 10 sable brushes
Now the down side.
Once cured it is tough as nails but not UV proof so sunlight will cause the undercoat to powder off so you must use a good quality top coat with high UV protection.
Good thing is you can use almost any top coat .
I generally use brushing enamel as it makes a thick coating over the top .
On mowers I usually use Hammertone , 3 coats which looks good on tool boxes as well and hides runs .
So after the undercoat has gone on , keep it out of the sunlight till you put what ever top coating you like on it.
I have some vintage motorcycles done with the full POR 15 kit , undercoat & top coat more than 40 years ago
They have scratches & chips all over hem from use but not a single speck of rust
Some of the others who sed powder coatings have needed to cut rusted sections out of their frames because water wicked in under the power coat.
Because POR 15 is very thin and drys by a chemical reaction from the base up rather from the outside down there are no micro pores to wick water down to the metal surface, it is fully sealed .
The stuff was originally formulated for painting steel ship hulls and the original formula will actually dry under water
However it is a lot more expensive & comes in 20 gallon tubs
The other thing to keep in mind that once opened the undercoat will start reacting with the air so only buy the can size you need for the job
If you do not use all of it and want to try to keep it then stretch some food wrap over the opening then tap the lid town tight and store the can upside down.
I have had some keep for 3 years like that

bertsmobile1 said:

Do them in the full POR 15 treatment that will still be pristine when your kids hand them on to their grandkids
If done properly bullets bounce off POR15 and it will never ever rust
It is what true professionals use on vintage & veteran chassis

Click to expand...

That;s GOOOOD stuff.

The only better steel protection is heavy zinc plating or dip galvanizing and neither of them as as permanent

This is going to be amazing. I can't wait to get it ordered.

One question though. Am I going to need to sand all the paint off the box, down to bare metal. I'm going to sand it. But was only thinking about just sanding the rough spots. I'm pretty sure I won't be able to get into the corners of the drawers and other tight corners.
Will those places be an issue?

If this is your first time with POR, good luck. It's like breaking out the grease gun to lube up U-joints on an old car. You will have grease all over you LOL.

Looking forward to seeing it once she is done.

It will only take 100% to bare metal
However it will wick into crevices and cure there as well, it will just take a bit longer & not be as strong .
POR 15 at its weakest is still better than Kill Rust & other alkaloid base paints
And yes the whole box will need to be stripped bare

bertsmobile1 said:

It will only take 100% to bare metal
However it will wick into crevices and cure there as well, it will just take a bit longer & not be as strong .
POR 15 at its weakest is still better than Kill Rust & other alkaloid base paints
And yes the whole box will need to be stripped bare

Click to expand...

I'm going to check around and see if I can find a radiator shop that still has a bead blaster for those drawers.

I used Por back in the 90's to paint my 60's tiller. I still have it and it never had a speck of rust. The problem I had was that their Hardnose paint on top of the Por peeled off here and there.

The Snowbird snowblower I used the same thing and after10 years and my moving south, not a speck of rust where metal was not exposed- like rock chips.

I called around today and found a powder coating company in Little Rock. They said they could do the top and bottom box, with just about any color I wanted for less than $500. That included the inside of the cabinet and the drawers.

I think I'm going to go that route.