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Hello folks,
I want to know if my engine has a rod knock, since I'll be a doing replacing all the gaskets as soon as winter hits since oil has started leaking all around the block. So, if I'm already opening, I'd like to replacing the rod (if it's the part that's bad) too. Also going to replace the piston rings and hone the cylinder since it's wasting a lot (and I mean a lot) of oil.
But before I open it, here are a few recordings:
- Start, mid-throttle, stop
- Mid-throttle, full-throtle, running (ignore the rattle, it's just the mower's handle)
(attacked a .zip in case the website isn't working out for you)
Thanks in advance.

Sounds like it to me, it's faint but there is definitely a clicking sound. could be the small end or big end.
If it's using alot of oil (Leaking and burning, right?), you may need to have a machinist bore the cylinder out, I would definitely have a someone that knows what they're doing measure the bore, so then you can either make the decision to hone it and new rings (if the bore is within spec) or may be more economical to repower it, My local machine shop charges either $50 or $75 a hole. $20 for honing.
Also if it is indeed the rod knocking, i would have the crank pin (what the rod bolts too) measured too.

Scrubcadet10 said:

Sounds like it to me, it's faint but there is definitely a clicking sound. could be the small end or big end.
If it's using alot of oil (Leaking and burning, right?), you may need to have a machinist bore the cylinder out, I would definitely have a someone that knows what they're doing measure the bore, so then you can either make the decision to hone it and new rings (if the bore is within spec) or may be more economical to repower it, My local machine shop charges either $50 or $75 a hole. $20 for honing.
Also if it is indeed the rod knocking, i would have the crank pin (what the rod bolts too) measured too.

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Thanks for the reply.
As for the oil, the dripping started a few weeks ago, I suspect a bad crankcase gasket (the engine is 25+ years old). And it is burning oil ever since I own it.
I'll stay with honing and replacing piston rings for now, since no machinists are near me in the area, and I hardly believe any would have time and patience for a $50 mower. I'll take my chances with the new set of piston rings and honing. Also, that knocking noise is there too ever since I own it, and never head ANY issues with it (besides carburetor issues and the oil burning).

When we're by oil burning... what's wrong with Tecumseh's engines in that matter? My BVS153 burns oil, once owned a BVS143, also burned oil, got a Vantage 35, also burns oil, had Vantages at servicing, also burned oil - is it a factory fault, or just bad quality or no proper servicing? Meanwhile, I owned a B&S 35, currently own one too, had multiple of them at servicing, have a tractor with a B&S OHV, and even a Honda ripoff engine - and NONE of them ever puffed the smallest ammout of blue smoke compared to Tecumsehs.

Well, if it's been knocking since you got it, i highly doubt that it is the rod now, usually when they start clanking, you don't have long before blooey.

Put up some pics or a movie. I would have a hard time spending that much money on this mower.

Noise could be from a loose engine, loose blade, or just a chunk of carbon.

Pull the head off and take a peek before deciding or buying anything.

Scrubcadet10 said:

Well, if it's been knocking since you got it, i highly doubt that it is the rod now, usually when they start clanking, you don't have long before blooey.

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Good to know! Thanks

Fish said:

Put up some pics or a movie. I would have a hard time spending that much money on this mower.

Noise could be from a loose engine, loose blade, or just a chunk of carbon.

Pull the head off and take a peek before deciding or buying anything.

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Eh pics of what? Engine still wasn't open, and for now I can provide audio only. Maybe you want to see the engine on the outside?

Anyways, engine could be loose, could be checked. Blade surely isn't - that guy ain't going anywhere, it's literally impossible to take it off without a 80% change of breaking the screw.
I opened the head few weeks ago to clean carbon deposits since there was a LOT of it due to high ammounts of oil being burned.

If it's burning that much oil,I highly doubt new standard rings will fix it.
What I would do when you tear it apart, check the piston ring end gaps.
You should be able to find the specifications online or someone here might have them.
That will tell you what shape your cylinder is in.
And check the gaps in New rings too.

XGamer223 said:

Thanks for the reply.
As for the oil, the dripping started a few weeks ago, I suspect a bad crankcase gasket (the engine is 25+ years old). And it is burning oil ever since I own it.

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I wanted to see pics to be able to talk you out of spending any money on this thing.

Scrubcadet10 said:

If it's burning that much oil,I highly doubt new standard rings will fix it.
What I would do when you tear it apart, check the piston ring end gaps.
You should be able to find the specifications online or someone here might have them.
That will tell you what shape your cylinder is in.
And check the gaps in New rings too.

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Thanks a lot. That is indeed very helpful. I'll be tearing it apart as soon as the season ends. And I will probably write a new thread sooner or later.
Thanks a lot again!

Fish said:

I wanted to see pics to be able to talk you out of spending any money on this thing.

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Well, the mower is serving me well. And it's a nice vintage mower with still perfectly working gearbox for the wheels, a key and a starter, a battery charger coil, and large bag, and everything pretty much is stock on it, nothing is broken and it cunts the highest grass without any issues. I find new mowers just meh... most are overpriced, full of unnecessary crap, have no manual throttle, and are built poorly and cheaply. My neighbour bought a brand new one, and after 3 hours of working, the gas tank started to leak, the traction barely works, the engine is underpowered, and bag handle broke and it leaves grass behind the mower with the bag on and it even struggles with the smallest grass.

Btw. the connection rod here costs around $20, and rings around $25. I hope it will give it a few more years of service.

XGamer223 said:

Well, the mower is serving me well. And it's a nice vintage mower with still perfectly working gearbox for the wheels, a key and a starter, a battery charger coil, and large bag, and everything pretty much is stock on it, nothing is broken and it cunts the highest grass without any issues. I find new mowers just meh... most are overpriced, full of unnecessary crap, have no manual throttle, and are built poorly and cheaply. My neighbour bought a brand new one, and after 3 hours of working, the gas tank started to leak, the traction barely works, the engine is underpowered, and bag handle broke and it leaves grass behind the mower with the bag on and it even struggles with the smallest grass.

Btw. the connection rod here costs around $20, and rings around $25. I hope it will give it a few more years of service.

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Correct in all but one point
Mowers are actually getting cheaper every day in real terms ( hours worked to pay for them ) .
My fathers first push mower was £ 45 45s 45p which was close enough to 2 months wages
That , down here would be $ 3750 ( Aus ) which is a lot to pay for a push mower, even if it does last fr 60 years

A big lip will tell you a lot quickly. I would not buy any parts until you tear it down totally.
An oversize piston and rings could be pricey.

bertsmobile1 said:

Correct in all but one point
Mowers are actually getting cheaper every day in real terms ( hours worked to pay for them ) .
My fathers first push mower was £ 45 45s 45p which was close enough to 2 months wages
That , down here would be $ 3750 ( Aus ) which is a lot to pay for a push mower, even if it does last fr 60 years

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Here where I live, the cheapest ones (which are total crap) would take me 2-3 monthly wages to pay it off, so. the cheapest ones are expensive for me. But I do feel like it's time to get a upgrade anyways.

Fish said:

A big lip will tell you a lot quickly. I would not buy any parts until you tear it down totally.
An oversize piston and rings could be pricey.

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We'll see. Oversized pistons and tings are the last thing on my mind due to it is to find ANY piston for this engine, and a oversized/special one would be a real headache to get and/or pay for.
I really do hope honing will do the trick. If not, hey, buying oil every 2 weeks it is then.