filmteknik
Forum Newbie
Following up. I proposed to get a used rod and was asking about attaching it to the crankshaft thru the hole the mishap punched into the wall of the crankcase. The rod cap already faces that way.
This was to avoid opening the entire engine because I thought there were a lot of pieces that would fall free and needed to be perfectly aligned when closing. It turns out this fear was unnecessary. Crankshaft, camshaft, and the ball end of the oil pump. How I know this now is quite unfortunate. Read on.
So I got the used connecting rod and got it on the piston pin. Pushed it into the cylinder with a ring compressor. I attached the rod to the crankshaft. Got the cap on with both a socket and open end wrench. Yes, nice and oily. Cylinder head back on.
Made two small holes on either side of the opening. Cut and fit a piece of aluminum (GF's old license plate!), bending it to match. Lots of high temp RTV.
Buttoned it all up. Oil added. Fuel added. Let the RTV cure a couple days.
As you know Tecumseh dumbed things down over time and one adjusts the governed speed on this model by bending the tab the governor spring hooks to. I bent it in the direction of lower speed.
The big day came. Got my strobe ready to set the speed. It didn't want to start on recoil so I removed it and cranked it with a drill. Started right up.
And oversped. Adjusting the gov spring tab had no effect. Within seconds it broke the rod AGAIN. Punched through the patch.
Broken governor.
Choice of giving up or going inside. This is how I now know it's not that terrible. I fully expected the governor gear to be in pieces but it seem fine. It's the spool specific specifically one of the wings that go in between the parts of the governor gear.
I don't know if the damage was there from before or caused by the prior incident.
I do have this incident on video and I fed that to an AI which, from the audio, estimated the RPM at about 4140. Spec is 2950 ± 150, call it 3000. So no surprise it broke.
Not in this very deep. $15 used rod, the ring compressor, some red RTV.
No more $15 rod. Next will be $20.
So here are some questions.
The governor gear shaft has no C clip, just a bulge at the top. It is pressed into the base. Some wrestle it loose with Vice Grips and replace it along with the parts it holds and lightly pound the new one down. Others drill up from the underside and pound something through. A drop of sealant can close the hole. One thing I am looking and is grind away the bulge on the shaft. Seems like there is a groove there. Maybe a C clip or even a tightly twisted loop of small diameter baling wire would work. Leaning to drilling up. But say I did grind off the bulge. Is anything actually needed to retain the gear and spool? The spool has the governor rod pushing down on it with spring pressure.
I guess I should replace the gear as well as the spool.
I'll be replacing the gasket between crankcase and base. Should I put any sealant on it? Doesn't seem like there was any and no leaks.
Yeah it's all crazy but learning all the time.
This was to avoid opening the entire engine because I thought there were a lot of pieces that would fall free and needed to be perfectly aligned when closing. It turns out this fear was unnecessary. Crankshaft, camshaft, and the ball end of the oil pump. How I know this now is quite unfortunate. Read on.
So I got the used connecting rod and got it on the piston pin. Pushed it into the cylinder with a ring compressor. I attached the rod to the crankshaft. Got the cap on with both a socket and open end wrench. Yes, nice and oily. Cylinder head back on.
Made two small holes on either side of the opening. Cut and fit a piece of aluminum (GF's old license plate!), bending it to match. Lots of high temp RTV.
Buttoned it all up. Oil added. Fuel added. Let the RTV cure a couple days.
As you know Tecumseh dumbed things down over time and one adjusts the governed speed on this model by bending the tab the governor spring hooks to. I bent it in the direction of lower speed.
The big day came. Got my strobe ready to set the speed. It didn't want to start on recoil so I removed it and cranked it with a drill. Started right up.
And oversped. Adjusting the gov spring tab had no effect. Within seconds it broke the rod AGAIN. Punched through the patch.
Broken governor.
Choice of giving up or going inside. This is how I now know it's not that terrible. I fully expected the governor gear to be in pieces but it seem fine. It's the spool specific specifically one of the wings that go in between the parts of the governor gear.
I don't know if the damage was there from before or caused by the prior incident.
I do have this incident on video and I fed that to an AI which, from the audio, estimated the RPM at about 4140. Spec is 2950 ± 150, call it 3000. So no surprise it broke.
Not in this very deep. $15 used rod, the ring compressor, some red RTV.
No more $15 rod. Next will be $20.
So here are some questions.
The governor gear shaft has no C clip, just a bulge at the top. It is pressed into the base. Some wrestle it loose with Vice Grips and replace it along with the parts it holds and lightly pound the new one down. Others drill up from the underside and pound something through. A drop of sealant can close the hole. One thing I am looking and is grind away the bulge on the shaft. Seems like there is a groove there. Maybe a C clip or even a tightly twisted loop of small diameter baling wire would work. Leaning to drilling up. But say I did grind off the bulge. Is anything actually needed to retain the gear and spool? The spool has the governor rod pushing down on it with spring pressure.
I guess I should replace the gear as well as the spool.
I'll be replacing the gasket between crankcase and base. Should I put any sealant on it? Doesn't seem like there was any and no leaks.
Yeah it's all crazy but learning all the time.