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Synthetic oil
#2
K
KennyV
K
KennyV
Spectacular idea.. Aside from all the other reasons...synthetic oil will handle Heat much better than mineral oils... I run Rotella T6 in All my engines, Gasoline & Diesel, Air cooled and water cooled... You will Never regret using a Great engine oil... :smile:KennyV
#3
L
LouNY
L
LouNY
It's always good to treat your mowers etc with the best oil and so on and in return they will take care of you in the long run.
#4
H
hitmanharleyk
H
hitmanharleyk
I am currently running Mobil 1 with a Wix filter, next oil change I'm going to Amsoil which is what I run in our vehicles. In my opinion it is the best oil on the market!
I also mix MMO with my gas for some lubrication on the top side of my motors.
I also mix MMO with my gas for some lubrication on the top side of my motors.
#5
T
Tindal
T
Tindal
synthetic oil is just regular oil thats refined to a higher standard . not different just better!
#6
K
KennyV
Only Some Synthetic is "just regular oil thats refined to a higher standard" actual Synthetic IS very different.... But you are right that synthetic is Better.... :smile:KennyV
K
KennyV
synthetic oil is just regular oil thats refined to a higher standard . not different just better!
Only Some Synthetic is "just regular oil thats refined to a higher standard" actual Synthetic IS very different.... But you are right that synthetic is Better.... :smile:KennyV
#7
A
Ariena
Oh Dear.........
A
Ariena
Tindal said:synthetic oil is just regular oil thats refined to a higher standard . not different just better!
Oh Dear.........
#9
B
BigRed
B
BigRed
All my yard equipment gets motorcraft 10W30 synthetic blend. Why, you may ask? Because I got it for 1.71 a quart, for two cases. Cheap oil is good, but GOOD cheap oil is GREAT!
#10
T
T J Blazek
T
T J Blazek
Can I get into this and ask a question? Which is better; regular oil or synth? Multi weight or straight? Always thought multi weight was for use with hydraulic engines and straight weight was for solid lifters. Some of you pro's unconfuse me..
#11
K
KennyV
Multi Viscosity is going to be best...
You will never regret the added lubrication properties you will get from a good Synthetic... :smile:KennyV
K
KennyV
Can I get into this and ask a question? Which is better; regular oil or synth? Multi weight or straight?
Multi Viscosity is going to be best...
You will never regret the added lubrication properties you will get from a good Synthetic... :smile:KennyV
#12
Ric
Good Idea? Bad Idea? My suggestion would be to do and use what the Manufacturer recommends. Most Manufacturers will recommend a detergent oil (API service SF, SG, SH,SJ,or SL) and most recommend a viscosity of a SAE. 10w30 but it's up to you.
Personally I feel like Synthetic oil is a waste of money in a lawn mower. The thing is your mower is not a car that you can extend your oil changes from 3 to 15000 miles between changes or change oil once a year.
The oil in your mower needs to be changed at 50 hours regardless of the type you use and synthetic oil at 50 hrs will be just as dirty as regular oil at 50 hrs so I figure why double and sometimes triple my cost for oil just because it's synthetic.
Ric
Anyone using synthetic oil? Good idea?
Good Idea? Bad Idea? My suggestion would be to do and use what the Manufacturer recommends. Most Manufacturers will recommend a detergent oil (API service SF, SG, SH,SJ,or SL) and most recommend a viscosity of a SAE. 10w30 but it's up to you.
Personally I feel like Synthetic oil is a waste of money in a lawn mower. The thing is your mower is not a car that you can extend your oil changes from 3 to 15000 miles between changes or change oil once a year.
The oil in your mower needs to be changed at 50 hours regardless of the type you use and synthetic oil at 50 hrs will be just as dirty as regular oil at 50 hrs so I figure why double and sometimes triple my cost for oil just because it's synthetic.
#13
T
Tater
Shouldn't you go with what your engine manual states...??? That said, I think very few recommend a streight weight anymore, I think Synthetic is better now than dino, but I'm no expert...
Have a good one...Tater...
T
Tater
Can I get into this and ask a question? Which is better; regular oil or synth? Multi weight or straight? Always thought multi weight was for use with hydraulic engines and straight weight was for solid lifters. Some of you pro's unconfuse me..
Shouldn't you go with what your engine manual states...??? That said, I think very few recommend a streight weight anymore, I think Synthetic is better now than dino, but I'm no expert...
Have a good one...Tater...
#14
B
blueguy
B
blueguy
Synthetic is waxy and much better to manage when cleaning up at oil change time. You don't smell it on your hands two days later.
#15
Ric
Ric
I found this video on youtube. Eric the car guy, he seems to know or be knowledgeable about the subject of Synthetic oil. Maybe we should listen to his info and use it for our next oil changes on our mowers???
#16
T
T J Blazek
T
T J Blazek
I went back by the dealer to pickup my 3 free blades; and went back and talked to the Service Manager and asked him the same question. I can quote: " If iwe sold it and it has a Kawasaki motor on it; we replace it with 30wt (Penzoil). Everything else gets 10w30. If we didn't sell it; we ask?" Since my first change is free; I know what I will get. Not too impressed with the brand; I normially use Castrol..
#17
Ric
I thought they came with oil from the factory and are supposed to be changed at something like 8 Hours on the Kawasaki, hours on the Kohler that's what my manual says. I always use 10w30 Mobil 5000.
Ric
I went back by the dealer to pickup my 3 free blades; and went back and talked to the Service Manager and asked him the same question. I can quote: " If iwe sold it and it has a Kawasaki motor on it; we replace it with 30wt (Penzoil). Everything else gets 10w30. If we didn't sell it; we ask?" Since my first change is free; I know what I will get. Not too impressed with the brand; I normially use Castrol..
I thought they came with oil from the factory and are supposed to be changed at something like 8 Hours on the Kawasaki, hours on the Kohler that's what my manual says. I always use 10w30 Mobil 5000.
#18
T
Tseg
T
Tseg
Certainly I use Mobil 1 in my snowblower to aide in cold weather starts (-55F flowability). But considering I use less than 1/2 of a quart in my Honda mower engine, I can afford the couple of dollar investment knowing I can take it through the season and my engine will always stay in mint condition on the inside.
:thumbsup:
:thumbsup:
#19
M
motoman
M
motoman
OK guys, I know this topic is near and dear, but...Ric is right IMO, synthetic is wasted money except in extremely cold operation. You are not turning 10,000 rpm. One thing I believe is that running a THIN oil is best to avoid wear at start- up. If any of you are brave enough go on line to "ferarri chat" and read the oil guru's stuff (if you can) . He then offers a test almost no one can pass on the material he has just offered. You will feel HUMBLE afterwards. It is a major, and complex topic.
I think most ac tractor engines will "use" more e.g. 5w-30 than 30w, so you do have to watch more carefully. Flame suit is on. :laughing:
I think most ac tractor engines will "use" more e.g. 5w-30 than 30w, so you do have to watch more carefully. Flame suit is on. :laughing:
#20
BWH
BWH
Briggs & Stratton Vangard V-Twin manuals indicate the use of straight weight oil 10 weight in the winter 30 weight in the summer they also in the same chart show that the use of 10w30 or 10w40 synthetic is now a recomendation of Briggs & Stratton.
I might add I ran synthetic oil in a 12.5 HP V-Twin Briggs & Stratton from 1992 to 2012, 20 years and over 1900 hours pushing around a 48" deck running a blower/bagger with no significant loss of power or oil consumption over that period what so ever. I sold it last year opting for a larger model and the new owner says its working flawless.
I might add I ran synthetic oil in a 12.5 HP V-Twin Briggs & Stratton from 1992 to 2012, 20 years and over 1900 hours pushing around a 48" deck running a blower/bagger with no significant loss of power or oil consumption over that period what so ever. I sold it last year opting for a larger model and the new owner says its working flawless.
#21
BWH
BWH
I was meaning to add my experiences with hydraulic oil I am in the electric utility field we have had to deal with slow operations in sub zero temperatures over the years in basket trucks. A good number of years after we gave up on aircraft fluids in the hydraulic systems due to the lack of lubercation in the pumps we switched to synthetic hydraulic oil, it was not as good as the aircraft fluids but pumps were too expensive to replace plus the synthetic was twice as flowable and if you can imagine 70 foot of hose going up the boom and 70 foot going down would make the boom extreemly slow.
The accidental find in this case was the great properties of this oil in extreem heat. If you have never been around a basket truck you have no idea how hot the circulating oil at 3500psi can get! Put it this way a hydraulic impact gun running at the boom tip on a 95dg. day is to hot to hold onto using peterolum oil but using synthetic it is still fairly warm but the impact tool is usable wearing gloves. I am told by the tech's in the hydraulic shop its all about friction. Just my observations for what their worth.
The accidental find in this case was the great properties of this oil in extreem heat. If you have never been around a basket truck you have no idea how hot the circulating oil at 3500psi can get! Put it this way a hydraulic impact gun running at the boom tip on a 95dg. day is to hot to hold onto using peterolum oil but using synthetic it is still fairly warm but the impact tool is usable wearing gloves. I am told by the tech's in the hydraulic shop its all about friction. Just my observations for what their worth.
#22
T
Tseg
Several things... a multigrade xW-zz where W= Winter, or cold fluid pumpability and the zz designates hot fluid viscosity. So you are correct a thinner (smaller) W number will help with cold startup and reduce wear because the oil will circulate to moving parts quicker. But the viscosity number (zz) indicates hot fluid film thickness, which generally indicates better protection the bigger number it is. I happen to use Mobil 1 0W-40... excellent cold weather start-up and great hot engine protection. Certainly Mobil 1 0W-30 is likely just as good as my manual recommends using a 30 weight oil. I'm sacrificing a bit of fuel economy for I what believe to be better protection. What you don't want to do is use a viscosity less than the manufacturer recommends, like using a 5w-20 when a 5w-30 is recommended. Why? Because the viscosity required is usually based on the tolerances of the metal components inside. Using a 20 weight oil in a 30 weight recommended engine risks metal on metal wear because the tolerances are wider than the oil film.
Motor Oil:
- Lubricates
- Protects
- Cleans deposit
- Suspends dirt
- Cools
- Inhibits Rust
A good motor oil, like a synthetic, does all these things better and longer. A conventional oil does all these things but to do as good as a synthetic you may have to change the oil every 3rd time you start the mower. If you have an engine for 5 years and it starts and sounds just like it did on day 1 and you only changed the fluid once a year using conventional oil, hey, keep doing it. For me, the $5 - $10 extra i may pay per year for a synthetic oil so I can sleep at night and not worry when I last changed it, knowing my engine runs like new, makes it all worth it.
T
Tseg
OK guys, I know this topic is near and dear, but...Ric is right IMO, synthetic is wasted money except in extremely cold operation. You are not turning 10,000 rpm. One thing I believe is that running a THIN oil is best to avoid wear at start- up. If any of you are brave enough go on line to "ferarri chat" and read the oil guru's stuff (if you can) . He then offers a test almost no one can pass on the material he has just offered. You will feel HUMBLE afterwards. It is a major, and complex topic.
I think most ac tractor engines will "use" more e.g. 5w-30 than 30w, so you do have to watch more carefully. Flame suit is on. :laughing:
Several things... a multigrade xW-zz where W= Winter, or cold fluid pumpability and the zz designates hot fluid viscosity. So you are correct a thinner (smaller) W number will help with cold startup and reduce wear because the oil will circulate to moving parts quicker. But the viscosity number (zz) indicates hot fluid film thickness, which generally indicates better protection the bigger number it is. I happen to use Mobil 1 0W-40... excellent cold weather start-up and great hot engine protection. Certainly Mobil 1 0W-30 is likely just as good as my manual recommends using a 30 weight oil. I'm sacrificing a bit of fuel economy for I what believe to be better protection. What you don't want to do is use a viscosity less than the manufacturer recommends, like using a 5w-20 when a 5w-30 is recommended. Why? Because the viscosity required is usually based on the tolerances of the metal components inside. Using a 20 weight oil in a 30 weight recommended engine risks metal on metal wear because the tolerances are wider than the oil film.
Motor Oil:
- Lubricates
- Protects
- Cleans deposit
- Suspends dirt
- Cools
- Inhibits Rust
A good motor oil, like a synthetic, does all these things better and longer. A conventional oil does all these things but to do as good as a synthetic you may have to change the oil every 3rd time you start the mower. If you have an engine for 5 years and it starts and sounds just like it did on day 1 and you only changed the fluid once a year using conventional oil, hey, keep doing it. For me, the $5 - $10 extra i may pay per year for a synthetic oil so I can sleep at night and not worry when I last changed it, knowing my engine runs like new, makes it all worth it.
#23
T
transportation812
T
transportation812
I just changed my John Deere to Amsoil. I have run it in my Toyota Tacoma pickup for the past 6 years.
#24
TnHusky
TnHusky
Again as already stated, heat is the main problem for breakdown. I have always run Pennzoil 30wt in my older Briggs with no filter and put probably 500 hrs on that motor with no problem. The newer engines with the emissions crap are running leaner and hotter so I'm going Syn this time just for heat issue's.
By the way I run Amsoil in my Harley for 22,000 miles with no problems.
By the way I run Amsoil in my Harley for 22,000 miles with no problems.
#25
RTMower
RTMower
We put Amsoil Small Engine oil in everything we sell and/or service. We believe in using the best products available for our customers. We also use Amsoil in our car and our diesel truck. Highly recommend synthetic.
#26
M
Mike D
M
Mike D
In the 1950's when gasoline powered lawn mowers for home use entered the market, 30 wt. oil was required. The rule of thumb was - air cooled engines must use straight grade ( 30 wt. ) oils only. The only exception was for snow blowing equipment ( which was used in winter only ). The reason was that air cooled engines had hot spots on the cylinder head that would quickly break down the VI ( viscosity improvers ) components of the motor oil. Since most 10w30 motor oils were 10 wt. oils with about 8 - 10% VI chemicals. For a water cooled engine, a 10w30 motor oil means the oil would be fluid ( a pourable liquid ) at - 30 F ( for easy cranking and starting in the winter ) and contained the lubricating properties of a 30 wt. oil at normal engine temperatures ( 190 - 220 F ).
That being said, many newer higher horsepower 18 hp and higher recommend 10w30 oil. Apparently a larger oil sump and pressurized lubrication keep the air cooled engines from forming hot spots. I do recommend the use of a full synthetic ( any premium brand ) 10w30. The components of a full synthetic oil can better tolerate shock loads, oxidation and hot spots.
That being said, many newer higher horsepower 18 hp and higher recommend 10w30 oil. Apparently a larger oil sump and pressurized lubrication keep the air cooled engines from forming hot spots. I do recommend the use of a full synthetic ( any premium brand ) 10w30. The components of a full synthetic oil can better tolerate shock loads, oxidation and hot spots.
#27
Fish
Fish
Ah, it is not late winter, wrong time of year for a lusty synthetic fight.........
#28
P
phcaan
I just purchased a used Husqvarna GTH27V52LS with 38 hours on it. I would like to start using Synthetic oil but have been told I should put more hours on it before I switch. Any thoughts?
P
phcaan
Several things... a multigrade xW-zz where W= Winter, or cold fluid pumpability and the zz designates hot fluid viscosity. So you are correct a thinner (smaller) W number will help with cold startup and reduce wear because the oil will circulate to moving parts quicker. But the viscosity number (zz) indicates hot fluid film thickness, which generally indicates better protection the bigger number it is. I happen to use Mobil 1 0W-40... excellent cold weather start-up and great hot engine protection. Certainly Mobil 1 0W-30 is likely just as good as my manual recommends using a 30 weight oil. I'm sacrificing a bit of fuel economy for I what believe to be better protection. What you don't want to do is use a viscosity less than the manufacturer recommends, like using a 5w-20 when a 5w-30 is recommended. Why? Because the viscosity required is usually based on the tolerances of the metal components inside. Using a 20 weight oil in a 30 weight recommended engine risks metal on metal wear because the tolerances are wider than the oil film.
Motor Oil:
- Lubricates
- Protects
- Cleans deposit
- Suspends dirt
- Cools
- Inhibits Rust
A good motor oil, like a synthetic, does all these things better and longer. A conventional oil does all these things but to do as good as a synthetic you may have to change the oil every 3rd time you start the mower. If you have an engine for 5 years and it starts and sounds just like it did on day 1 and you only changed the fluid once a year using conventional oil, hey, keep doing it. For me, the $5 - $10 extra i may pay per year for a synthetic oil so I can sleep at night and not worry when I last changed it, knowing my engine runs like new, makes it all worth it.
I just purchased a used Husqvarna GTH27V52LS with 38 hours on it. I would like to start using Synthetic oil but have been told I should put more hours on it before I switch. Any thoughts?
#29
M
motoman
M
motoman
Well, if you MUST spend extra for synthetic here is a flash from good ole wal mart. Wife's german car warranty says Mobil 1 which has cost $8-$9 per quart for years. Suddenly the 5 qt bottle is $23. GO, BUY, GO , BUY. Don't know why the drastic drop in price.
#30
P
phcaan
Thank You, This will be the last mower I will ever purchase, and yes I must go synthetic. This is also the newest mower I have ever purchased.
P
phcaan
Well, if you MUST spend extra for synthetic here is a flash from good ole wal mart. Wife's german car warranty says Mobil 1 which has cost $8-$9 per quart for years. Suddenly the 5 qt bottle is $23. GO, BUY, GO , BUY. Don't know why the drastic drop in price.
Thank You, This will be the last mower I will ever purchase, and yes I must go synthetic. This is also the newest mower I have ever purchased.
#31
djdicetn
djdicetn
The never-ending debate with valid arguments on both sides of the fence:0)
Me, I agree with user Ric that the price of synthetics would not entice me to wait longer than 50 hours between oil changes anyway and I too don't have "money to burn" for a WEE BIT better protection with synthetics. And on straight weight versus multi-viscosity for a small engine below is a QUOTE from my Kawasaki manual:
"Using multi grade oils(5W-20, 10W-30, 10W-40) will increase oil consumption. Check oil level more frequently when using them."
Now just why in the world would a reputable engine manufacturer "spread a lie" like that?????? And it says will......NOT may and that's my story and I'm sticking to it:0)
P.S.
My previous mower's Briggs & Stratton engine manual said EXACTLY the same thing. Boys.........read your engine manuals and take heed to the manufacturer's advice.
P.S.S.
In addition I have NEVER read anything in one of my mowers' engine manuals that advised me that synthetic oils were recommended over conventional oils for protecting their engines.....just sayin'
P.S.S.
Just for the record, I use Briggs & Stratton SAE30 in my brand new Gravely with the Kawasaki FX691V Commercial engine. I'll gladly post back in 20 years just how that worked out:0)
Me, I agree with user Ric that the price of synthetics would not entice me to wait longer than 50 hours between oil changes anyway and I too don't have "money to burn" for a WEE BIT better protection with synthetics. And on straight weight versus multi-viscosity for a small engine below is a QUOTE from my Kawasaki manual:
"Using multi grade oils(5W-20, 10W-30, 10W-40) will increase oil consumption. Check oil level more frequently when using them."
Now just why in the world would a reputable engine manufacturer "spread a lie" like that?????? And it says will......NOT may and that's my story and I'm sticking to it:0)
P.S.
My previous mower's Briggs & Stratton engine manual said EXACTLY the same thing. Boys.........read your engine manuals and take heed to the manufacturer's advice.
P.S.S.
In addition I have NEVER read anything in one of my mowers' engine manuals that advised me that synthetic oils were recommended over conventional oils for protecting their engines.....just sayin'
P.S.S.
Just for the record, I use Briggs & Stratton SAE30 in my brand new Gravely with the Kawasaki FX691V Commercial engine. I'll gladly post back in 20 years just how that worked out:0)
#32
M
motoman
M
motoman
I'm not in love with manufacturers , but the Intek does kick out 5W-30 which I like because it is just getting by the rings enough to lube the 280F cylinder walls. We will check back in 20 to see how your oil works out.:laughing:
#33
P
phcaan
I just got off the Briggs and Stratton web site and here is what they have to say about synthetic oil
"SAE 5W30 Using Synthetic oil offers better wear control of your engine, even under severe operating conditions. Since synthetics have better "inherent strength" they have the ability to keep functioning at the highest level for the longest possible time."
P
phcaan
The never-ending debate with valid arguments on both sides of the fence:0)
Me, I agree with user Ric that the price of synthetics would not entice me to wait longer than 50 hours between oil changes anyway and I too don't have "money to burn" for a WEE BIT better protection with synthetics. And on straight weight versus multi-viscosity for a small engine below is a QUOTE from my Kawasaki manual:
"Using multi grade oils(5W-20, 10W-30, 10W-40) will increase oil consumption. Check oil level more frequently when using them."
Now just why in the world would a reputable engine manufacturer "spread a lie" like that?????? And it says will......NOT may and that's my story and I'm sticking to it:0)
P.S.
My previous mower's Briggs & Stratton engine manual said EXACTLY the same thing. Boys.........read your engine manuals and take heed to the manufacturer's advice.
P.S.S.
In addition I have NEVER read anything in one of my mowers' engine manuals that advised me that synthetic oils were recommended over conventional oils for protecting their engines.....just sayin'
P.S.S.
Just for the record, I use Briggs & Stratton SAE30 in my brand new Gravely with the Kawasaki FX691V Commercial engine. I'll gladly post back in 20 years just how that worked out:0)
I just got off the Briggs and Stratton web site and here is what they have to say about synthetic oil
"SAE 5W30 Using Synthetic oil offers better wear control of your engine, even under severe operating conditions. Since synthetics have better "inherent strength" they have the ability to keep functioning at the highest level for the longest possible time."
#34
djdicetn
They should put that in their engine manuals instead of their website.
djdicetn
I just got off the Briggs and Stratton web site and here is what they have to say about synthetic oil
"SAE 5W30 Using Synthetic oil offers better wear control of your engine, even under severe operating conditions. Since synthetics have better "inherent strength" they have the ability to keep functioning at the highest level for the longest possible time."
They should put that in their engine manuals instead of their website.
#35
P
phcaan
I agree with you on that. There is more on Synthetic oil on that site but I have to find it again, I have a hard time finding what I want on that site, I seem to go around in circles.
P
phcaan
They should put that in their engine manuals instead of their website.
I agree with you on that. There is more on Synthetic oil on that site but I have to find it again, I have a hard time finding what I want on that site, I seem to go around in circles.
#36
P
phcaan
I just found the section on synthetic oil on the Briggs & Stratton website I was looking for the other day I copied it for you.
Is synthetic oil approved for use?
Briggs & Stratton Synthetic Oil
We have recently modified our engine oil recommendations to state that you may now use a synthetic 5W30 or 10W30 oil in all temperature ranges. We recommend the use of Briggs & Stratton Synthetic Oil. The use of this high quality detergent oil assures compliance with Briggs & Stratton warranty requirements regarding the use of appropriate oil.
Engine break-in procedures using synthetic oil remain the same. Please keep in mind that the use of synthetic oil does not preclude you from performing your regularly scheduled maintenance (i.e. check oil, change oil, etc.)
P
phcaan
They should put that in their engine manuals instead of their website.
I just found the section on synthetic oil on the Briggs & Stratton website I was looking for the other day I copied it for you.
Is synthetic oil approved for use?
Briggs & Stratton Synthetic Oil
We have recently modified our engine oil recommendations to state that you may now use a synthetic 5W30 or 10W30 oil in all temperature ranges. We recommend the use of Briggs & Stratton Synthetic Oil. The use of this high quality detergent oil assures compliance with Briggs & Stratton warranty requirements regarding the use of appropriate oil.
Engine break-in procedures using synthetic oil remain the same. Please keep in mind that the use of synthetic oil does not preclude you from performing your regularly scheduled maintenance (i.e. check oil, change oil, etc.)
#37
djdicetn
Is that B & S oil a true "synthetic" or what is referred to as a "synthetic blend"??? I didn't think that true/pure synthetic oil was defined as a "detergent oil" but I am by no means an oil expert".
djdicetn
I just found the section on synthetic oil on the Briggs & Stratton website I was looking for the other day I copied it for you.
Is synthetic oil approved for use?
Briggs & Stratton Synthetic Oil
We have recently modified our engine oil recommendations to state that you may now use a synthetic 5W30 or 10W30 oil in all temperature ranges. We recommend the use of Briggs & Stratton Synthetic Oil. The use of this high quality detergent oil assures compliance with Briggs & Stratton warranty requirements regarding the use of appropriate oil.
Engine break-in procedures using synthetic oil remain the same. Please keep in mind that the use of synthetic oil does not preclude you from performing your regularly scheduled maintenance (i.e. check oil, change oil, etc.)
Is that B & S oil a true "synthetic" or what is referred to as a "synthetic blend"??? I didn't think that true/pure synthetic oil was defined as a "detergent oil" but I am by no means an oil expert".
#38
P
phcaan
A synthetic oil is 100% synthetic. Both synthetic and synthetic blends are detergent oils. It is very unusual to find non detergent oil now days and you would never want to use a non detergent oil in any of your modern engines, large or small.
I retired as the manage for an oil company.
Briggs says their oil is synthetic so I would assume that it is. Remember, Briggs sells both regular and synthetic oil.
Phil
P
phcaan
A synthetic blend is labeled as a Synthetic blend, Nothing wrong with it, in fact it is a very good quality oil.Is that B & S oil a true "synthetic" or what is referred to as a "synthetic blend"??? I didn't think that true/pure synthetic oil was defined as a "detergent oil" but I am by no means an oil expert".
A synthetic oil is 100% synthetic. Both synthetic and synthetic blends are detergent oils. It is very unusual to find non detergent oil now days and you would never want to use a non detergent oil in any of your modern engines, large or small.
I retired as the manage for an oil company.
Briggs says their oil is synthetic so I would assume that it is. Remember, Briggs sells both regular and synthetic oil.
Phil
#39
djdicetn
Thanks for the edification...that's what I love about these forums users that like to share their knowledge!!! Yeah, probably the main reason Briggs revised their stand on synthetics is that they sell it too:0)
I did notice that they made sure they stated "Please keep in mind that the use of synthetic oil does not preclude you from performing your regularly scheduled maintenance (i.e. check oil, change oil, etc.)". That being said, I'll bet that their "oil change schedule" remains the same for regular oil or sythetic. I think it's a given that their synthetic is a little more expensive than the B & S SAE30 oil I use, so therefore another incentive would be their profit margin:0)
djdicetn
A synthetic blend is labeled as a Synthetic blend, Nothing wrong with it, in fact it is a very good quality oil.
A synthetic oil is 100% synthetic. Both synthetic and synthetic blends are detergent oils. It is very unusual to find non detergent oil now days and you would never want to use a non detergent oil in any of your modern engines, large or small.
I retired as the manage for an oil company.
Briggs says their oil is synthetic so I would assume that it is. Remember, Briggs sells both regular and synthetic oil.
Phil
Thanks for the edification...that's what I love about these forums users that like to share their knowledge!!! Yeah, probably the main reason Briggs revised their stand on synthetics is that they sell it too:0)
I did notice that they made sure they stated "Please keep in mind that the use of synthetic oil does not preclude you from performing your regularly scheduled maintenance (i.e. check oil, change oil, etc.)". That being said, I'll bet that their "oil change schedule" remains the same for regular oil or sythetic. I think it's a given that their synthetic is a little more expensive than the B & S SAE30 oil I use, so therefore another incentive would be their profit margin:0)
#40
P
phcaan
I use any major brand that is synthetic other than Penns, I don't care for their products, (that's just me) and I use WIX filters. You realize Briggs contracts their oil, they don't make it themselves. Small engines particularly air cooled engines are hard on oil so you would not want to change the maintenance schedule from what the factory recommends. You realize however that most folks don't change their mower oil regularly if at all.
My last Craftsman mower lasted me 20 years and still ran great when I sold it last week. I figure I put about $100 per year into it in the last few years. Parts wear out and need to be replaced.
P
phcaan
Thanks for the edification...that's what I love about these forums users that like to share their knowledge!!! Yeah, probably the main reason Briggs revised their stand on synthetics is that they sell it too:0)
I did notice that they made sure they stated "Please keep in mind that the use of synthetic oil does not preclude you from performing your regularly scheduled maintenance (i.e. check oil, change oil, etc.)". That being said, I'll bet that their "oil change schedule" remains the same for regular oil or sythetic. I think it's a given that their synthetic is a little more expensive than the B & S SAE30 oil I use, so therefore another incentive would be their profit margin:0)
I use any major brand that is synthetic other than Penns, I don't care for their products, (that's just me) and I use WIX filters. You realize Briggs contracts their oil, they don't make it themselves. Small engines particularly air cooled engines are hard on oil so you would not want to change the maintenance schedule from what the factory recommends. You realize however that most folks don't change their mower oil regularly if at all.
My last Craftsman mower lasted me 20 years and still ran great when I sold it last week. I figure I put about $100 per year into it in the last few years. Parts wear out and need to be replaced.
#41
djdicetn
Yeah, B & S doesn't manufacture oil....and Craftsman(Sears) doesn't manufacture lawn mowers(my 2006 54" YS4500 was manufactured by Husqvarna....as are most Craftsman lawn tractors except the cheaper "MTD" ones). Since I was "religious" about the maintenance after spending a little over $1K on that Craftsman you can just guess how anal I will be after shelling out the bucks for a commercial ZTR:0)
I can't understand why anybody would ignore taking care of equipment unless they've got more money than they've got sense!! But like you said.....all machines eventually have parts that wear out. That's the main reason I went commercial was so that the parts wouldn't wear out until my son inherits it(then he can cough up the money for any necessary repairs:0)
djdicetn
I use any major brand that is synthetic other than Penns, I don't care for their products, (that's just me) and I use WIX filters. You realize Briggs contracts their oil, they don't make it themselves. Small engines particularly air cooled engines are hard on oil so you would not want to change the maintenance schedule from what the factory recommends. You realize however that most folks don't change their mower oil regularly if at all.
My last Craftsman mower lasted me 20 years and still ran great when I sold it last week. I figure I put about $100 per year into it in the last few years. Parts wear out and need to be replaced.
Yeah, B & S doesn't manufacture oil....and Craftsman(Sears) doesn't manufacture lawn mowers(my 2006 54" YS4500 was manufactured by Husqvarna....as are most Craftsman lawn tractors except the cheaper "MTD" ones). Since I was "religious" about the maintenance after spending a little over $1K on that Craftsman you can just guess how anal I will be after shelling out the bucks for a commercial ZTR:0)
I can't understand why anybody would ignore taking care of equipment unless they've got more money than they've got sense!! But like you said.....all machines eventually have parts that wear out. That's the main reason I went commercial was so that the parts wouldn't wear out until my son inherits it(then he can cough up the money for any necessary repairs:0)
#42
Heus
Heus
Sorry to bring up a dreaded oil thread but... Can I use synthetic at my first 10 hour oil change in my 2013 Koehler Courage Pro 27hp? Or should I wait for more break in time?
#43
djdicetn
Heus,
Did you read this whole thread.......I told you the controversy of conventional versus synthetic oil had "passionate" defenders on both sides of the fence:0)
Maybe not "dreaded", but definitely has "passionate" defenders!!!!
djdicetn
Sorry to bring up a dreaded oil thread but... Can I use synthetic at my first 10 hour oil change in my 2013 Koehler Courage Pro 27hp? Or should I wait for more break in time?
Heus,
Did you read this whole thread.......I told you the controversy of conventional versus synthetic oil had "passionate" defenders on both sides of the fence:0)
Maybe not "dreaded", but definitely has "passionate" defenders!!!!
#44
P
phcaan
Seems to me that when I was researching that, Koehler wanted 50 hours on the engine before synthetic was used. I could be wrong, but that is how I remember it.
P
phcaan
Sorry to bring up a dreaded oil thread but... Can I use synthetic at my first 10 hour oil change in my 2013 Koehler Courage Pro 27hp? Or should I wait for more break in time?
Seems to me that when I was researching that, Koehler wanted 50 hours on the engine before synthetic was used. I could be wrong, but that is how I remember it.
#45
Heus
Heus
Thanks. Has anyone here switched to synthetic at the 10 hour first oil change?
#46
Ric
You shouldn't change over until after 50 hrs. Kohler say 50hrs for break in purposes and setting up the rings seals and other parts of the engine. Personally I prefer to do and use what the manual says to use. If the manual doesn't call for synthetic I wouldn't use it.
Ric
Thanks. Has anyone here switched to synthetic at the 10 hour first oil change?
You shouldn't change over until after 50 hrs. Kohler say 50hrs for break in purposes and setting up the rings seals and other parts of the engine. Personally I prefer to do and use what the manual says to use. If the manual doesn't call for synthetic I wouldn't use it.
#47
Heus
Heus
Thanks I will wait until 50 hours. The kohler manual doesn't even mention a 10 hr oil change that I can see. It does say its ok to use synthetic. My Dixon manual is what calls for the 10 hr oil change.
#48
Ric
I get both the mower manual and engine manual with my Toro's / Kawasaki and CC / Kohler ZTR's sounds like someone forgot to give you a manual when you purchased the mower, you need to go back to the dealer and pick up your Kohler Engine manual. My Kohler manual says this below
Using other than service class SJ or higher oil or extending oil change intervals longer than
recommended can cause engine damage.
Synthetic Oils
may be used with oil changes performed
at the recommended intervals. However, to
allow piston rings to properly seat, a new or
rebuilt engine should be operated for at least
50 hours using standard petroleum based oil
before switching to synthetic oil
Ric
Thanks I will wait until 50 hours. The kohler manual doesn't even mention a 10 hr oil change that I can see. It does say its ok to use synthetic. My Dixon manual is what calls for the 10 hr oil change.
I get both the mower manual and engine manual with my Toro's / Kawasaki and CC / Kohler ZTR's sounds like someone forgot to give you a manual when you purchased the mower, you need to go back to the dealer and pick up your Kohler Engine manual. My Kohler manual says this below
Using other than service class SJ or higher oil or extending oil change intervals longer than
recommended can cause engine damage.
Synthetic Oils
may be used with oil changes performed
at the recommended intervals. However, to
allow piston rings to properly seat, a new or
rebuilt engine should be operated for at least
50 hours using standard petroleum based oil
before switching to synthetic oil