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I have a 15 year old Craftsman lawn tractor, when I change the oil, can I use synthetic oil?

You can.
There is absolutely no advantage in using synthetic oil in an old engine designed to run on normal refined oil but it will not hurt your engine.
Just try to keep within the recommended viscosity ranges.
Using a 5W 40 synthetic in place of a 10W 30 will cause a little bit of oil smoke on start up and might leak a bit more past the seals when the engine is being stored.
But when running, no difference.
If it floats your boat then go ahead.

However you still need to change the oil at the same times.
Don't get sucked in to the doubles / triples the oil change intervals.
That only applies to auto engines, not mowers.

When I worked for Mobil, back in the 90's, people would come into our place and we'd sell them Mobil 1. Even though they'd been running regular oil for ever. A lot of them, within a couple of weeks, would come back in with oil leaks. Simply because the synthetic would clean off all the dried up oil that was keeping it from leaking in the first place.

From what I've learned, oils with plenty of zinc in it is good for older engines. I'd like to know what brand or oil has plenty of zinc in it. Kawasaki labeled oil does. But that's hard to find off the store shelves.

Project Farm did that Oil showdown series on youtube.
He sent oil samples off to see what and how many anti wear additives they had.
I think Valvoline and Castrol had the most zinc, not sure.
I know that Valvoline racing oil has more zinc than standard oils.

And kinetix brand oil is made specifically for air cooled engines.
Kawasaki oil (K-Tech) is made by Citgo.

High Zinc Motor Oil

THE ADVANTAGES OF USING OIL WITH HIGH ZINC CONTENT
Despite the fact that boron-based additives have come to rival some zinc motor oil additives since the limitations imposed by API on zinc and phosphorus usage, the latter are still the best when it comes to dry start protection and a host of other advantages. Zinc and phosphorus are added mainly to improve surface protection, having the important role of protecting major engine components from wear and oxidation, and removing the likelihood of solid deposits. Zinc is also known to offer extreme pressure protection, and to protect components made from ferrous materials from corrosion. As the oil thickens as a result of extreme heat, it gradually thickens, forming deposits of varnish which prevent oxidation from even occurring.

ZINC AND OLDER ENGINES
Most engine manufacturers have a minimum requirement of 1,200 parts per million of zinc when it comes to the engine oil you use. In fact, some will go so far as to void your warranty, if that amount isn’t found on oil samples taken from broken engine components. When it comes to older engines and classic cars, high zinc content is a must, and some oil manufacturers even sell special engine oil that comes with elevated ZDTP or ZDDP (Zinc Dialkyl Dithiophosphates) content. ILSAC multi-viscosity oils that are rated SM even feature special additives used for older engines that experts recommend for use in older engines.

You can purchase Lucas zinc additive at any auto parts store.

Rotella diesel oil has a lot of zinc. It's available everywhere.

cpurvis said:

Rotella diesel oil has a lot of zinc. It's available everywhere.

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Indeed. :thumbsup: Rotella 15w-40 T-4.

For some reason I just can't bring myself to put rotella in a small gas engine, I don't know why though.
Kawasaki FE290 running good after almost 20 years, conventional 10W40.

If I were to use rotella in a engine that calls for 10W40, I guess I would use the same weight in rotella, correct?
Full pressure lube too.:ashamed:

15w-40 in conventional Rotella is as close as you can get.
5w-40 in synthetic Rotella.

Either will work just fine but you still have to change at the interval specified by owner's manual.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/ROTELLA-128-fl-oz-10W40-Motor-Oil-550019907/204999686

But thats synthetic blend

In speaking on the phone directly to a Shell Rotella tech, he advised that for my solid lifter cam Kawasaki the Rotella T-4 had the most additives best suited for my application.

And T-4 is the only one that is JASO approved, which is what the Kawasaki manual recommends, a JASO approved oil.

:thumbsup:
I may use rotella in my next Kawasaki change, 5 more hours.

I'll blame you if it blows up Buddy.
:laughing:

Look on any oil you're buying for the API spec in the little circle sunburst deal. If it's SM it has reduced anti wear additives, if it's SN or SN+ (plus) it has almost none of the barrier lube additives the older and air cooled motors need to survive. If it is not listed I'd keep looking for something else.

I ran it all this year & now did oil & filter change using it again, & I'm gonna start using it in my old B&S push mower.

Scrub- sure blame me.

PS: On the back or bottom of the jug is the date it was bottled, I try & get the newest date available.

7394 said:

I ran it all this year & now did oil & filter change using it again, & I'm gonna start using it in my old B&S push mower.

Scrub- sure blame me.

PS: On the back or bottom of the jug is the date it was bottled, I try & get the newest date available.

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Wow, I had no idea they (or at least shell) put dates on The containers:thumbsup:

Most of the oils I use do have dates on the back or bottom or even front, depending on brand.

After 5 years the additives are about depleted even if jug has never been opened. Like milk, I always look.

So whatever oil you choose, I would just say to not get El-cheap-o oil.

I bet this is better than Rotella!!:laughing:
https://www.dollargeneral.com/dg-auto-sae-10w-30-motor-oil-1-qt.html

Rule 1: Any oil is better than no oil.

Rule 2: The right kind of oil is better than the wrong kind.

Rule 3: The right amount of oil is better than the wrong amount.

Rule 4: Fresh oil is better than old oil.

Rule 5: ?

Rule 5: ? IDK ?

7394 said:

Rule 5: ? IDK ?

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I was hoping you could come up with Rule 5!

Rule #5
Don't trust change intervals on the bottle of oil, use your owners manual.

Such as Mobil 1 annual protection.

cpurvis said:

I was hoping you could come up with Rule 5!

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I thought I had it, till I re-read your list. :thumbsup:

I think I decided to use rotella in my next change for the Mule.
Here is what the owner manual states for viscosity in this engine.
5W30,10W40,10W50,20W40,20W50.
For my climate area what do y'all think I should use?
I've ran 10W40 all time. Or should I use 15W40.
:wink:

What's your climate type and how is the equipment housed in the winter?

If you're in Conroe, Texas I'd run 15w-40 all year long.

Yep, Texas. Mule is kept outside year round and used year round.
Hot as heck in the summer and mild to frigid winters.
Thanks cpurvis.

Let's see what Buddy has to say. He's done a lot more research on oil than me and he may have a different opinion.

new surroundings (here) have created a state of confusion for me. Today was a bad daty so best not try & reply.

You guys hold the fort ? down..

7394 said:

new surroundings (here) have created a state of confusion for me. Today was a bad daty so best not try & reply.

You guys hold the fort ? down..

Click to expand...

Don't worry, Bert is here to keep us in line

7394 said:

new surroundings (here) have created a state of confusion for me. Today was a bad daty so best not try & reply.

You guys hold the fort ? down..

Click to expand...

Sorry to hear that. Hope things get back to normal soon!

Thanks, it's one of my animals, took to the Vet today, Will know more Monday.

Scrub - I wouldn't be shy using 15w-40, in cooler weather it's only 15 w.

Hope your animal gets well soon,Buddy.
Cool, 15W40 rotella it is.

Thanks man.

And you use what oil you feel is best for your machines.

7394 said:

Thanks man.

And you use what oil you feel is best for your machines.

Click to expand...

I usually do as I please, but when I see people who I know knows more than me and is more experienced I'll take their advice every time.

Well, follow your instincts..

Lucky me, Tractor supply sells it in 1 quart bottles.
The capacity is 1.5 quarts

While we're on the subject of oil, my avatar is a picture of an Onan 14 hp horizontal shaft with right at 600 hours on it. That was the second time I had it apart for the same reason, which you can see at the bottom of the sreen, is a gasket sucked in in the exact same place that it happened before. The engine now has 1100 hours on it.

My "fix" to keep it from sucking that gasket in was to clean the foam wrapper on the air cleaner every 10 hours as recommended by Cub Cadet, not every 50 hours as recommended by Onan.

This repair is described in a post in the Cub Cadet section a few years back.

Wow, that's interesting! What's the engine used on if you don't mind me asking?
The Kawasaki FE290 engines had that problem of sucking in the gasket, they just remade the gasket wider in The problem area and that fixed it.

tom3 said:

Look on any oil you're buying for the API spec in the little circle sunburst deal. If it's SM it has reduced anti wear additives, if it's SN or SN+ (plus) it has almost none of the barrier lube additives the older and air cooled motors need to survive. If it is not listed I'd keep looking for something else.

Click to expand...

I went to O'reilly's yesterday and could not find one brand with SM on the bottle.

Scrubcadet10 said:

Wow, that's interesting! What's the engine used on if you don't mind me asking?
The Kawasaki FE290 engines had that problem of sucking in the gasket, they just remade the gasket wider in The problem area and that fixed it.

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It's on a Cub Cadet 2140 AGS.

PTmowerMech said:

I went to O'reilly's yesterday and could not find one brand with SM on the bottle.

Click to expand...

Might try Tractor Supply.

Scrubcadet10 said:

Lucky me, Tractor supply sells it in 1 quart bottles.
The capacity is 1.5 quarts

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Right from Kawasaki website.

Ideal for all engines where API, CJ-4, SL and JASO MA oil is recommended.

• Designed to keep today’s high-performance, low-emission engines clean and operating at peak efficiency
• Protects against excessive viscosity decrease at high temperatures
• Manufactured with the latest additive technologies to provide superior performance
• Excellent shear stability assures stay-in-grade performance
• KTECH™ 4-cycle oil contains a zinc additive which prevents excess wear on engine parts.

Shell Rotella exceeds this standard in the 15w-40 T-4 oil. Read it on the back on any bottle.

If you look around I think you can find some SJ or SH spec oils in the implement stores and maybe in the lawnmower section. The Rotella T-4 oil seems to be fine for about any engine that doesn't call for the latest specs. But watch for "meets or exceeds" on anything you buy. Might wind up with a cylinder bore like this:




Might notice the wear is below the rings, piston itself is scoring the cylinder walls. Poor lubrication on the Kool Bore Briggs.

tom3 said:

If you look around I think you can find some SJ or SH spec oils in the implement stores and maybe in the lawnmower section. The Rotella T-4 oil seems to be fine for about any engine that doesn't call for the latest specs. But watch for "meets or exceeds" on anything you buy. Might wind up with a cylinder bore like this:

View attachment 46336


Might notice the wear is below the rings, piston itself is scoring the cylinder walls. Poor lubrication on the Kool Bore Briggs.

Click to expand...

It'll hone out...... ?

7394 said:

Right from Kawasaki website.

Ideal for all engines where API, CJ-4, SL and JASO MA oil is recommended.

• Designed to keep today’s high-performance, low-emission engines clean and operating at peak efficiency
• Protects against excessive viscosity decrease at high temperatures
• Manufactured with the latest additive technologies to provide superior performance
• Excellent shear stability assures stay-in-grade performance
• KTECH™ 4-cycle oil contains a zinc additive which prevents excess wear on engine parts.

Shell Rotella exceeds this standard in the 15w-40 T-4 oil. Read it on the back on any bottle.

Click to expand...

Cool, good to know

Tom- I'd say that Flatty bore has seen better days.

I have yet to pull apart a aluminium bore engine without any scoring or galling of sorts.
I like cast sleeve engines so much more, granted they can still score. They seem to last longer to me

Changed the oil in the mule today with Rotella 15w40..... Date on the bottle was november,
I think i've already gained 20 horse power and about 30 ft lbs of torque..... ??

Careful. The cops are out thick with the holidays. Might get get nailed with a mowing violation for excessive speed with all that newfound horsepower.

tom3 said:

If you look around I think you can find some SJ or SH spec oils in the implement stores and maybe in the lawnmower section. The Rotella T-4 oil seems to be fine for about any engine that doesn't call for the latest specs. But watch for "meets or exceeds" on anything you buy. Might wind up with a cylinder bore like this:

View attachment 46336


Might notice the wear is below the rings, piston itself is scoring the cylinder walls. Poor lubrication on the Kool Bore Briggs.

Click to expand...

I've often thought about how harsh carbon could be on a cylinder, when a piece of it breaks loose. Cleaning one out, with gas treatments and things of that nature might not be such a good idea. That's some pretty deep scores below where the rings stop.

Scrubcadet10 said:

Changed the oil in the mule today with Rotella 15w40..... Date on the bottle was november,
I think i've already gained 20 horse power and about 30 ft lbs of torque..... ??

Click to expand...

And also on the back of the oil bottle(s) it will have it approved for JASO, JASO-M, & JASO MA, ideal for Kawasaki flat tappet engines. Least on the T-4 15w-40 Rotella oil.