Synthetic Oil?

[7394]

Found 1 source anyhow. Not cheap.

Briggs 10w-30 dino oil or full syn.

Genuine Briggs & Stratton 4 Stroke 4 Litres Multigrade Engine Oil 10w/30 - Briggs & Stratton Dealer - The Briggs Shop Perth WA

Briggs & Stratton 10W-30 4-Stroke Engine Oil has been specifically compounded and approved for all weather use in all VANGUARD, INTEK, DOV professional series and other OHV 4-Stroke engines. Suitable for all Briggs & Stratton air cooled engines The use of this oil ensures compliance with...

www.thebriggsshop.com.au

 

[ILENGINE]

Must be an australian thing, since it isn't offered to the US dealers. And to Tom3, been running the 5w30 synthetic briggs oil in a stump grinder for several hundred hours with no ill effects, don't even have to add oil between the 50 hour oil changes.

 

[cruzenmike]

THE answer to your question:

What type and how much oil for my lawn mower? | Briggs & Stratton

Let Briggs & Stratton help you find how much and what type of oil to use for your lawn mower. Choose the best oil for your engine with the Oil finder tool.

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Most small air cooled engines should run SAE30 should conditions permit. If running below 50 degrees F then 10w30. Both of those can and should be conventional oil (non-sybthetic). Personally I would locate some of the Genuine Briggs oil your local farm and home store.

I only have one Briggs powered machine left and I run the synthetic 5w30. It is a generator that sits standby and could be started any time of the year including the dead cold of winter. This oil gives me the widest range of operating temperatures so it fits my needs.

At the end of the day, clean fuel, clean air and regular CHECKING and changing of oil is more important than conventional vs synthetic so long as the grade and viscosity of the oil are correct.

 

[Hammermechanicman]

Gotta love oil threads. 2 stroke ones are the best. Like PC vs Mac. Ford vs Chevy.

 

[tom3]

I'll add a bit more. Modern oils, API rated SM/SN/SN+ and those in synthetics, are made for modern engines. We're talking about micropolished journals, exact clearances, coated pistons, low tension rings, roller cam followers and rocker arms, very tightly controlled fuel mixtures, moderate controlled temperature limits.
Non of this applies to the vast majority of air cooled mower engines. For sure, any oil is better than no oil, but I'll stick to oil that is suitable for the engine I'm running. The old JD mower I use has always had good old dino 30 weight since 1980, mostly Rotella. Had a bad experience with another engine, chewed up the bore, I'll stick with what works. Got a quart of this on the shelf, it'll stay there.

 

[BPierce]

If it makes you happy, but oil with that word on the bottle. You can eat organic food if you like, too.

My point being, there is no industry standard for either term. Virtually all engine oils have synthetic polymers and almost all motor oil has a petroleum base stock.

When you change your oil and using the correct viscocity has more to do with anything than the label on the bottle.

 

[Hammermechanicman]

I personally like canola oil in all my engines. ??

 

[tom3]

Might put some plaque in the passages over time though. Maybe a "little dab" of Brylcreem as an additive? Sure oily enough.

 

[de3]

Its labeled Briggs, but Briggs dont make it.