RonEats
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- May 31, 2022
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Little bit of a read to explain but I want the full picture given. I am a mechanic by trade though never worked professionally on small engines. Please excuse me if I use the wrong terminology.
B&S 22HP 724cc Commercial Zero turn / MFG # 44T677-0003-G1
Mower starts up and runs first try every time (one second of pulling the choke)
Will idle perfectly low or high MOST times. Until it starts acting up, which is only after it has been running for about 10-15 min with blades going as well. Then it surges and tries to stall until the choke is pulled. Then it will run again, or sometimes it dies anyways even with the choke pulled (usually dependent on the position, half pull seems to be a sweet spot). Blades being engaged usually cause it to stall when it starts to act up. I know this usually indicates too much air or lack of fuel issue (lean). She runs like a bat outta h377 even with the blades engaged up until it decides to act up. Still starts right up every time after stalling (still have to use choke for 1 second) Then it will idle no problem again. Engage blades, kaput, pull choke, runs for a few, kaput again. I did ensure no blockages or grass buildup in the blade area. If I let it sit for a while, she'll act right again for another 10-15 min blades or not.
She's older and was inherited so things I have done to ensure a sound machine (within the last month) after she started acting up to help get her back in tip shape.
Plugs are newish so I did not replace them (not an issue as I am getting great spark and the NGKs look great)
New coils / magneto armatures (new from local small engine shop, unsure of brand however they cost just as much as B&S branded. Coils spaced .008-.0010 in away from flywheel at the magnetic portion as instructed in the manual. (spaced with digital caliper tool). Di-electric grease was used.
New air filter, fuel filter, oil filter and oil (fuel filter only thing not B&S branded)
New B&S fuel pump
Took apart the carburetor and cleaned it thoroughly (did not replace and did not look bad inside it, cleaned it anyways)
While I had the carb off, I replaced the needle float because I do know they like to swell and cause a fuel cut off. The new needle as B&S and seemed to be an updated model.
After all this, I thought maybe alternator? I TESTED BUT DID NOT REPLACE the alternator (stator), and at full throttle it spec'd at 26 - 29V. Seems low to me as I expected 30-40V. However I refrained from replacing as my thought process was if I'm being fuel starved, it could cause lower RPM, which in turn means lower voltages.
I'm kinda stuck here unless ya'll think I SHOULD replace the Carb. Up until now I only wanted to do so much as maint. not just throw parts at it due to the fuel filter being BLACK, and I hadn't changed oil since last season. Any advice would be appreciated. I'm sure I'm missing something.
B&S 22HP 724cc Commercial Zero turn / MFG # 44T677-0003-G1
Mower starts up and runs first try every time (one second of pulling the choke)
Will idle perfectly low or high MOST times. Until it starts acting up, which is only after it has been running for about 10-15 min with blades going as well. Then it surges and tries to stall until the choke is pulled. Then it will run again, or sometimes it dies anyways even with the choke pulled (usually dependent on the position, half pull seems to be a sweet spot). Blades being engaged usually cause it to stall when it starts to act up. I know this usually indicates too much air or lack of fuel issue (lean). She runs like a bat outta h377 even with the blades engaged up until it decides to act up. Still starts right up every time after stalling (still have to use choke for 1 second) Then it will idle no problem again. Engage blades, kaput, pull choke, runs for a few, kaput again. I did ensure no blockages or grass buildup in the blade area. If I let it sit for a while, she'll act right again for another 10-15 min blades or not.
She's older and was inherited so things I have done to ensure a sound machine (within the last month) after she started acting up to help get her back in tip shape.
Plugs are newish so I did not replace them (not an issue as I am getting great spark and the NGKs look great)
New coils / magneto armatures (new from local small engine shop, unsure of brand however they cost just as much as B&S branded. Coils spaced .008-.0010 in away from flywheel at the magnetic portion as instructed in the manual. (spaced with digital caliper tool). Di-electric grease was used.
New air filter, fuel filter, oil filter and oil (fuel filter only thing not B&S branded)
New B&S fuel pump
Took apart the carburetor and cleaned it thoroughly (did not replace and did not look bad inside it, cleaned it anyways)
While I had the carb off, I replaced the needle float because I do know they like to swell and cause a fuel cut off. The new needle as B&S and seemed to be an updated model.
After all this, I thought maybe alternator? I TESTED BUT DID NOT REPLACE the alternator (stator), and at full throttle it spec'd at 26 - 29V. Seems low to me as I expected 30-40V. However I refrained from replacing as my thought process was if I'm being fuel starved, it could cause lower RPM, which in turn means lower voltages.
I'm kinda stuck here unless ya'll think I SHOULD replace the Carb. Up until now I only wanted to do so much as maint. not just throw parts at it due to the fuel filter being BLACK, and I hadn't changed oil since last season. Any advice would be appreciated. I'm sure I'm missing something.
Last edited:
. If this is the resolution, I owe you a beer.