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Model 311777 13.5 hp
Any pointers? Thanks

Try spinning the crankshaft a little as you are pushing down on the sump.

Check camshaft and govenor gear are going into place properly. Be sure crank around TDC on compression so there is no pressure on camshaft from the valve train.

Everything has to line up including the Oil Slinger/governor and the counter weight.

I tried to get the two gear dots lined up by trying to turn the wheel without the plug in. Couldn't turn it by myself on its side. Putting a pipe wrench on the shaft might not be a good idea, unless some padding is used.
If the two dots are in line will the sump go on then?

I am thinking the crank might turn
By rotating on the top.

ba_50 said:

I tried to get the two gear dots lined up by trying to turn the wheel without the plug in. Couldn't turn it by myself on its side. Putting a pipe wrench on the shaft might not be a good idea, unless some padding is used.
If the two dots are in line will the sump go on then?

Click to expand...

did you remove the spark plugs? and the oil pump cover and shaft if you have one?

a regular channel lock pliers is all i need to use to turn the flywheel, if you need more then that then something is binding in the engine

31 series 13,5 hp?? Something definitely wrong with your assembly. Marks lineup to assemble is a side fact, marks must line up for it to run right. As said above, sounds to me like it has an oil pump and you did not remove the oil pump shaft until sump is installed.
Walt Conner

Everything looks good now, except pan won't go the last inch. The gasket material will go on after I figure it out

Does the crank have to be in a certain position?

Without type number we are guessing but if it has an oil pump then that is a possibility as mention of the dog bone not seated in the oil pump Georotor gear and the camshaft end and that would equal about an inch if both ends are not seated.

Type# 0209e1
The gear and camshaft end aren't in there yet. Thought it would be easier to put through the top last.

Oops
Resizing cut out the georotor

Do the weights look complete?

If you are trying to put the sump cover on with the engine laying on the flywheel, sometimes there can be enough movement to prevent the sump cover from going the last little bit. Also sometimes turning the crankshaft can create enough movement to allow the cover to seat.

might be easier if you can stand it up horizontally and try... or are you?

My friend showed up and we got it on. We opened up the 2 peg holes a little and it went on


Do you know what the torque should be on the sump bolts?

I came up with 180 inch pounds

Sounds good. Thanks

That spec on the sump screw has been changed by Briggs to 220 in-lbs (18.3 ft-lbs) due leaking sump covers.

Technical Specifications

Just twist till you hear the click.

Or until you need a Helicoil to repair the stripped threads. So far using the new specs I have only stripped one hole's threads. It takes a 5/16-18 x 0.625 Helicoil to repair.

Taryl did a video on this issue. He made sure he lubed the oil seal and did "something" to get the cover to go on the last inch. He said NEVER hammer or use the bolts to lock the cover down. Some good common sense there. There was a trick to it I forgot now. Once he did it the cover fell down proper.

slomo

ba_50 said:

My friend showed up and we got it on. We opened up the 2 peg holes a little and it went on


Do you know what the torque should be on the sump bolts?

Click to expand...

Now you have slop in the cover mating flange. Might be looking at future oil seal issues and so on. There was no need to get semi destructive on it. Too late as you already have it on.

slomo

StarTech said:

Or until you need a Helicoil to repair the stripped threads. So far using the new specs I have only stripped one hole's threads. It takes a 5/16-18 x 0.625 Helicoil to repair.

Click to expand...

My favirite is when AVE tightens a regular wernch and says "click" like a torque wrench.

ba_50 said:

My friend showed up and we got it on. We opened up the 2 peg holes a little and it went on


Do you know what the torque should be on the sump bolts?

Click to expand...

You "opened up the 2 peg holes", are you talking about where the dowel pins go? How much did you open them up? The dowel pins aligns the sump cover up with the crank , cam, etc. so it don't move out of alignment and or cause it to leak oil, the bolts only hold it together.

slomo said:

Now you have slop in the cover mating flange. Might be looking at future oil seal issues and so on. There was no need to get semi destructive on it. Too late as you already have it on.

slomo

Click to expand...

What is the cover mating flange?

mower king said:

You "opened up the 2 peg holes", are you talking about where the dowel pins go? How much did you open them up? The dowel pins aligns the sump cover up with the crank , cam, etc. so it don't move out of alignment and or cause it to leak oil, the bolts only hold it together.

Click to expand...

Just a small area on the edge so the dowel pins would go in. Should be ok..

Motor is back on at 180 inch pounds. Never leaked before so it might be ok

In the future, no need to open the holes.

slomo