Good to know... I've pretty much given up on trying to get that wheel off for now. I've been making some progress in figuring out why the mower is so hard to shift from forward to reverse and it seems to be connected to the adjustment for the brakes behind the right rear tire. I can make that adjustment without removing the wheel, although it would be easier with the wheel off.Regarding whacking the backside of a rim with a hammer, angle iron, or whatever to break it loose from the hub, I did that one time, and instead of the rim breaking loose, the retaining ring on the tip of the axle rod in the gear inside the transmission pulled out of its groove - so the entire axle rod-hub-wheel assembly slid out of the transmission.So I had to partially disassemble the transmission to retrieve the retainer ring and put a new retainer ring in.
The other day I decided to try and adjust what I thought was the brake behind the right rear wheel. As I was adjusting the nut inward, I thought I was adjusting the brake pad but instead found that it was also adjusting the tension on the drive belt as well. At one point I checked to see how the transmission was shifting, and was working perfectly. Then I though great, all I have to do now is tighten the nut all the way down and the messed everything up again. Before the adjustment it was very easy to depress the clutch/brake peddle down and after turning the nut clockwise the peddle became much harder to depress. Since this mower is different than my previous one, I'm having to re-learn how everything works on this one.
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2020
- Threads
- 120
- Messages
- 12,817
Just an optical illusion.
Here is one here. It is suppose to be flush.
The OP problem is all this rust highlighted in this image and likely it worst than it looks.
