Stuck Blade Nut after breaking blade free with leverage bar

FuzzyDriver

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  • / Stuck Blade Nut after breaking blade free with leverage bar
There's a dealer going out of business that has a new 3-speed Lawn-Boy that he took parts off of years ago. Let me know if either of you live near Toledo, OH and are interested. I could go back and take a closer look. I'm a push mower, AL deck kind of guy, so I didn't look at it very closely. The dealer is a few miles from my house.
 

FuzzyDriver

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  • / Stuck Blade Nut after breaking blade free with leverage bar
I just checked my own stuff and I have a 3-speed Lawn-Boy parts mower which I would be happy to trade for a Walbro carburetor with the whole air cleaner still on it. Heck, I'd trade it for just a decent air filter cover from an F-engined mower/Toro 93-1231!
 

Nessuno

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  • / Stuck Blade Nut after breaking blade free with leverage bar
I was going to pull the tran cover off and look in there and grease the rear wheels. Haven't gotten to it yet, but now I will be sure to get to it sooner than later. I have noticed the mower can be a little difficult to pull backwards, so I suspect a worn part or dirt in there somewhere.
 

Nessuno

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  • / Stuck Blade Nut after breaking blade free with leverage bar
I just checked my own stuff and I have a 3-speed Lawn-Boy parts mower which I would be happy to trade for a Walbro carburetor with the whole air cleaner still on it. Heck, I'd trade it for just a decent air filter cover from an F-engined mower/Toro 93-1231!
Check that parts picture I posted back in post #17. There's an air filter cover in there and two plastic carbs with air filter covers. If you think you can use them let me know. I'll temporarily turn on PM.
 

Nessuno

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  • / Stuck Blade Nut after breaking blade free with leverage bar
The 3-speed trans is obsolete and parts are getting expensive. Since it sat outside for two years, you really want to open up the transmission and give it a good cleaning / rebuild.

I picked up 2 3-speed mowers last year (1 $10 / 1 FREE) the 1st one's trans had water in it, but thankfully no parts were worn out ... so I was REALLY GLAD I opened it up, cleaned everything up and re-greased it !!

2nd one was dry inside but had water in it at one point as one gear was corroded and a couple of teeth were bad. The main drive shaft and 2 bushings that ride on it were bad too and these 4 parts were just under $118. It is really strange in that the bushing on the left looks ok, but the shaft is chewed up where it rides. Vs. the bushing on the right is trashed and the area on the shaft where it rides is no where near as bad as the other. The bushings are not that much $$ and if the shaft was evenly worn at both spots I would have saved $84 and done just bushings and reused the shaft. The replacement gear I got was used and was $10~15 cheaper than new. Other areas where the drive shaft can be worn out is at the the end bushings at the height adjusters.

Doug

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Got around to servicing the tranny. It looks like it needed it. In one pic you can see that the gearbox doesn't have much grease in it; all the grease came off in the cover pan and it has some golden-brownish grease (rust?). A second pic is after I cleaned out the old grease. The 3rd pic is the new grease (Lucas Red N' Tacky #2); I used a lot of grease because I wanted to finish up the tube in my grease gun; let it squirt out when I tighten on the pan cover and wipe off the excess. I also gave a few pumps into the wheel zerks.
 

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FuzzyDriver

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  • / Stuck Blade Nut after breaking blade free with leverage bar
Check that parts picture I posted back in post #17. There's an air filter cover in there and two plastic carbs with air filter covers. If you think you can use them let me know. I'll temporarily turn on PM.
They look good to me. I'd be happy to trade for the 3-speed parts mower I have. Do you live anywhere near Toledo, OH?
 

Nessuno

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  • / Stuck Blade Nut after breaking blade free with leverage bar
They look good to me. I'd be happy to trade for the 3-speed parts mower I have. Do you live anywhere near Toledo, OH?
Omaha, NE. All I'd really be interested in are the tranny parts and maybe the cables. If you stripped them off the chassis and boxed them up, I'd help pay for shipping. I'd send you the green cover and one of the plastic carbs with a cover. I'll keep one for myself, just in case even though my current carb is metal. If that's too much work, I'd still send you the cover. Couldn't cost much just for that.
 
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Nessuno

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  • / Stuck Blade Nut after breaking blade free with leverage bar
Well, it's been a year. Old Lawnboy runs fantastic. Best mower I've ever had. I wanted to post some updated pics for you guys. The lawnboy enthusiasts will be mad at the paint job. If you remember, my daughter is a Philadelphia Flyers fan and wanted to use those colors. We did something different. All black with decals. The black paint on the green plastic will peel eventually. I will either touch it up or peel it all off and go green on the deck.
 

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Nessuno

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  • / Stuck Blade Nut after breaking blade free with leverage bar
Would like to add, I did something stupid this week. The control cable busted, so I removed the small wire that grounded the ignition coil, just to get it running so I could mow my lawn. It didn't seem to have the power/rpms I am accustomed to. Afterwards, I realized I forgot about the engine brake. I mowed my whole lawn with the brake engaged. No wonder the motor seemed a little hot afterwards. New cable is around $90 bucks and I'm not paying that. I'll need to rig something up with a homemade control cable. Love that mower though. It cut through tall heavy spring kentucky bluegrass better than any mower I've had. The deck would eventually get bogged down, but the motor kept wanting to run; never died.
 

slomo

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  • / Stuck Blade Nut after breaking blade free with leverage bar
Got around to servicing the tranny. It looks like it needed it. In one pic you can see that the gearbox doesn't have much grease in it; all the grease came off in the cover pan and it has some golden-brownish grease (rust?). A second pic is after I cleaned out the old grease. The 3rd pic is the new grease (Lucas Red N' Tacky #2); I used a lot of grease because I wanted to finish up the tube in my grease gun; let it squirt out when I tighten on the pan cover and wipe off the excess. I also gave a few pumps into the wheel zerks.
Some lube is better than nothing.

But.... I would of used Snapper's 00 grade grease if it was mine. That tacky red mess doesn't flow at all. Once the initial turning gets done, no grease will be picked up to further lube anything. Grease is a thickened oil. See where this is going? Key here is flow and recoating parts.

You can get this Super S 00 grease at Tractor Supply for 6 bucks. I've used a ton of it, good stuff.

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