Forest thank you very much for the video I got through 6 minutes of it the guys like he could have courses on this stuff it's so thorough but it's 23 minutes long I do realize that the the only thing I could do other than you know replacing the deck is to use the JB weld and so far that's worked out okay but I was always wondering about the keyway + so what happens is you hit something your blade stops and then the keyway breaks and prevents the engine from destroying okay great how come they don't put the key way and the the breakaway what you need on the mower deck somehow why do you have to start messing with the engine because of a blade that hit a rock that makes no sense to me I would put the break point someplace on the mower deck but definitely it's before the drive shaft in my case would be vertical drive shell this is puzzling but so far getting back to that JB weld it has worked I didn't an extreme amount of it also it's a brand new carriage bolt. So the mower deck never had any Wheels and I added them mainly to stabilize the deck yeah it's kind of tilted in one way and you know it's another frustrating part about design for me but thanks for the URL and I'm getting the points points that are relevant for me out of it so far.JimP2014:
Using JB Weld and Duct tape on a Craftsman.
You might be overqualified as a design engineer for Craftsman and Murray.
Here is a video of a guy that has some good tips when working on lawn tractor decks.
Watch the video in post #12
I plan on watching all 23 minutes TomorrowForest thank you very much for the video I got through 6 minutes of it the guys like he could have courses on this stuff it's so thorough but it's 23 minutes long I do realize that the the only thing I could do other than you know replacing the deck is to use the JB weld and so far that's worked out okay but I was always wondering about the keyway + so what happens is you hit something your blade stops and then the keyway breaks and prevents the engine from destroying okay great how come they don't put the key way and the the breakaway what you need on the mower deck somehow why do you have to start messing with the engine because of a blade that hit a rock that makes no sense to me I would put the break point someplace on the mower deck but definitely it's before the drive shaft in my case would be vertical drive shell this is puzzling but so far getting back to that JB weld it has worked I didn't an extreme amount of it also it's a brand new carriage bolt. So the mower deck never had any Wheels and I added them mainly to stabilize the deck yeah it's kind of tilted in one way and you know it's another frustrating part about design for me but thanks for the URL and I'm getting the points points that are relevant for me out of it so far.
Jim
Thank you so much for your reply here's what I can tell you on setting one I'm cutting 2 in into the dirt . On setting 2 , I'm scraping the topsoil. I On setting three I'm scalping the lawn the tires are filled with the appropriate amount of air and I looked this up several years ago like how do you raise everything up and if you do a search you'll find many people have the same problem and the best solution of that is make sure your tires are filled with the correct amount of airThat mower wasn't built to mow 5" . None that I know of built like a Craftsman 2000 are . Re-Engineer it by disconnecting all of the height adjustment mechanicals and change what ever is stopping upward movement . ie - if metal in the way remove it . If a lift arm etc. is too short lengthen it or disconnect all and weld it to the frame at your desired height .
Wait hold up you got what I meant incorrect I didn't mean 5 in I meant setting five it's just a number on the side of the machine it translates into maybe 2 in or 3 in I apologize if that wasn't clear I don't mean 5 in height to cut the grass.Thank you so much for your reply here's what I can tell you on setting one I'm cutting 2 in into the dirt . On setting 2 , I'm scraping the topsoil. I On setting three I'm scalping the lawn the tires are filled with the appropriate amount of air and I looked this up several years ago like how do you raise everything up and if you do a search you'll find many people have the same problem and the best solution of that is make sure your tires are filled with the correct amount of air
But I do understand what you're saying I just don't understand why there's like a disconnect between people who make this stuff and people and I mean consumers who have lawns not commercial folks that need all kinds of different things going on so for the consumer line they don't change things up to make it easier for the people they're selling it to!
Jim
I did reread this, and the actual frame is blocking it. I often wondered about switching wheel/tire (s) to larger ones? Or maybe keep the wheels and get larger tires?That mower wasn't built to mow 5" . None that I know of built like a Craftsman 2000 are . Re-Engineer it by disconnecting all of the height adjustment mechanicals and change what ever is stopping upward movement . ie - if metal in the way remove it . If a lift arm etc. is too short lengthen it or disconnect all and weld it to the frame at your desired height .
I watched all of the video just now. One thing I did notice even with Cub Cadet is the belt can get an angle ( not the best thing ) coming from the drive shaft pulley and then back to the mower deck pulleys. I have thought about somehow making that bottom pulley on the driveshaft adjustable height ( and also have a keyway here ) so that the belt is always ( as much as possible ) in the same plane with the deck pulleys. For me this would always work since I rarely change deck heights. meaning the same plane will pretty much always be the case.JimP2014:
Using JB Weld and Duct tape on a Craftsman.
You might be overqualified as a design engineer for Craftsman and Murray.
Here is a video of a guy that has some good tips when working on lawn tractor decks.
Watch the video in post #12
"Using JB Weld and Duct tape on a Craftsman.Forest thank you very much for the video I got through 6 minutes of it the guys like he could have courses on this stuff it's so thorough but it's 23 minutes long I do realize that the the only thing I could do other than you know replacing the deck is to use the JB weld and so far that's worked out okay but I was always wondering about the keyway + so what happens is you hit something your blade stops and then the keyway breaks and prevents the engine from destroying okay great how come they don't put the key way and the the breakaway what you need on the mower deck somehow why do you have to start messing with the engine because of a blade that hit a rock that makes no sense to me I would put the break point someplace on the mower deck but definitely it's before the drive shaft in my case would be vertical drive shell this is puzzling but so far getting back to that JB weld it has worked I didn't an extreme amount of it also it's a brand new carriage bolt. So the mower deck never had any Wheels and I added them mainly to stabilize the deck yeah it's kind of tilted in one way and you know it's another frustrating part about design for me but thanks for the URL and I'm getting the points points that are relevant for me out of it so far.
Jim