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Stihl love/hate MS251C
#1
L10-11xx
L10-11xx
I have the ms251C Light 04 as you can see in the title it truly is a love-hate relationship I have with this chainsaw. If you can get it to start on the first few pulls it is a great saw if you can't it is the worst saw you can have. This saw is sold as an easy start and it is if you get it to fire in the first second or two if not put it away and get out the old saw. When I first got this saw I thought it was an operator error, but not anymore it is a case of crap or great. OK let's assume that it is me how do you get this thing to start without learning how to swear like a trooper? This saw must flood by just looking at it wrong, I really don't want to take off the cover each time I run into a starting problem to try and dry out the carb or throw Eather down the carb.
#2
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Next time you try to start it try this.
1. Push primer bulb 5 times, make sure it fills full.
2. Set at full choke.
3. Throttle wide open.
4. Pull rope until you hear it pop.
5. Move choke to half position.
6. Pull start.
This is the procedure I instruct my customers to use on both Stihl and Echo equipment.
1. Push primer bulb 5 times, make sure it fills full.
2. Set at full choke.
3. Throttle wide open.
4. Pull rope until you hear it pop.
5. Move choke to half position.
6. Pull start.
This is the procedure I instruct my customers to use on both Stihl and Echo equipment.
#3
S
SeniorCitizen
S
SeniorCitizen
If it has a constant speed gov. the throttle will be wide open at cranking speed .
#4
L10-11xx
L10-11xx
I would like to say I have not tried this approach to starting this saw, but that is not the case. What do you tell your customers if this makes sense approach fails? You are right this should work and it has worked for me at times, but seven out of ten times I put the saw away and go and get my old Poulan chain saw because I am fed up with this easy start crap. This is a great saw when running, but to say that it has to be running and so far not so great.Next time you try to start it try this.
1. Push primer bulb 5 times, make sure it fills full.
2. Set at full choke.
3. Throttle wide open.
4. Pull rope until you hear it pop.
5. Move choke to half position.
6. Pull start.
This is the procedure I instruct my customers to use on both Stihl and Echo equipment.
#5
ILENGINE
ILENGINE
Two things about starting the MS251 is one pull the yo-yo starter slowly and let the spring tension crank the engine. And when cold starting crank in the choke position till the engine attempts to start but no more than 4 cranks before taking out of choke position . Most of the time the saw will let out a very soft poot and then if you turn the choke off it will start within a couple cranks. If you miss the poot and crank it again it will flood.
#6
L10-11xx
L10-11xx
OK let's say this is all about me and not having a clue. This great saw once again has flooded do I put it away until the next sunrise or how long do I wait to start over and try try again? Trust me I am not trying to be flippant, but this saw is a joke if you have to jump through hoops to hear a sound other than me causing this thing out. Stihl makes a great product but this is not one of them to prove me wrong.
#7
ILENGINE
ILENGINE
If this saw has been repeated flooded to the extent that you claim, it may be in need of a new spark plug due to conductive fuel soaking into the ceramic of the plug causing it to short out internally.
Just as a side note I own a MS251C that I took in on a trade a few years ago. And your starting issue is far from limited on several stihl model saws. And part of the issue has to due to the variable spark timing of the electronic ignition module. If you try to crank them too fast it throws the spark advance off causing hard starting and flooding.
The Makita 6400 saw has that issue to the point that if you try to drop start it, it will flood everytime to the point of gas running out of the muffler Let your 13 year old daughter crank it and it will start in 2 pulls or less everytime.
Just as a side note I own a MS251C that I took in on a trade a few years ago. And your starting issue is far from limited on several stihl model saws. And part of the issue has to due to the variable spark timing of the electronic ignition module. If you try to crank them too fast it throws the spark advance off causing hard starting and flooding.
The Makita 6400 saw has that issue to the point that if you try to drop start it, it will flood everytime to the point of gas running out of the muffler Let your 13 year old daughter crank it and it will start in 2 pulls or less everytime.
#8
Hammermechanicman
Hammermechanicman
The 251c has a different primer system than other saws. The bulb is not a purge bulb. It pushes fuel into the fuel inlet of the carb. If you pump it too much you can pop off the metering needle and flood the engine. Only pump the bulb a couple times and then only pull the rope twice with the choke on. After that take it off choke and see if it starts.
#9
L10-11xx
L10-11xx
I appreciate all the comments that you have given me, but one of the things I have noticed is that all as well as what Stihl said about starting this saw are a little different, and what that tells me is do what works for you and for me. I got the saw to fire up and run now will it run in the AM who knows I will try some if not all to see if I can get the magic to work in the morning. I will work it for a few days and see what works best and I will give you what works best for a saw from hell. Once again thanks.
#10
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
The soft start saws are designed for whimps who can not overcome the engine compression
The secondary spring spins the engine at exactly the correct speed for starting .
Women or blokes with short ams who do not cause the engine to turn over on a single pull have no problems
Big boofy blokes who nearly rip the starting cord out of the engine every pull are the ones who have problems
Little pulls that may take 3 or 4 till it trips the secondary spring works best .
And as mentioned drop starting will not work.
I have a sneaky feeling that drop starting which is easy to mess up & cut yourself is probably the reason why it was designed
No saw company would make a design change that adds several extra parts unless they have been sued by a smart lawyer representing an idiot .
The secondary spring spins the engine at exactly the correct speed for starting .
Women or blokes with short ams who do not cause the engine to turn over on a single pull have no problems
Big boofy blokes who nearly rip the starting cord out of the engine every pull are the ones who have problems
Little pulls that may take 3 or 4 till it trips the secondary spring works best .
And as mentioned drop starting will not work.
I have a sneaky feeling that drop starting which is easy to mess up & cut yourself is probably the reason why it was designed
No saw company would make a design change that adds several extra parts unless they have been sued by a smart lawyer representing an idiot .
#11
ILENGINE
ILENGINE
The soft start accomplished two things, Made it easier for the small people to start the saw and due to changes in timing to meet EPA standards prevents getting the rope ripped out of their hands when the saw kicks back which was very common on the 021-023-025 series saws around 2004. You could cold start the saw without any issues. Run the saw a few minutes and shut it off and then try to restart. About half the time it would pull the handle out of your hands and was told by a half a dozen Stihl dealers that was normal for the new saws without easy start.. Had several customers take their brand new saws back to the dealer and either had them retrofitted to the easy start or had the saws replaced with easy start saws.The soft start saws are designed for whimps who can not overcome the engine compression
The secondary spring spins the engine at exactly the correct speed for starting .
Women or blokes with short ams who do not cause the engine to turn over on a single pull have no problems
Big boofy blokes who nearly rip the starting cord out of the engine every pull are the ones who have problems
Little pulls that may take 3 or 4 till it trips the secondary spring works best .
And as mentioned drop starting will not work.
I have a sneaky feeling that drop starting which is easy to mess up & cut yourself is probably the reason why it was designed
No saw company would make a design change that adds several extra parts unless they have been sued by a smart lawyer representing an idiot .
#12
ILENGINE
ILENGINE
On my MS251C it is a purge bulb and the fuel lines go from tank to carb inlet, carb outlet to primer inlet, and primer outlet back to tank. I can pump the bulb all I want and not flood the engine with gas.The 251c has a different primer system than other saws. The bulb is not a purge bulb. It pushes fuel into the fuel inlet of the carb. If you pump it too much you can pop off the metering needle and flood the engine. Only pump the bulb a couple times and then only pull the rope twice with the choke on. After that take it off choke and see if it starts.
#13
L10-11xx
L10-11xx
I know we have gotten off-topic but you are right in saying that what happened to change the starting of a chainsaw. This saw that I have been talking about is not for the guy or girl who is putting time out in the wood or looking for a load of firewood it is for the weekend doer. The question is would I or others out there buy this type of saw again I believe most would say hell no. Is this a good saw when running hell, yes it's a Stihl, but is it worth the BS in getting it started? For myself, I'll take my chances with the old saws and the lawyers.
#14
Hammermechanicman
Hammermechanicman
I have a 251c and it has the most ridiculous primer. It has a regular saw carb not designed for a purge bulb. The bulb pushes fuel into the carb fuel inlet and has a goofy bypass hose too. Only ever seen it on the 251c. The regular 251 doesn't have it.On my MS251C it is a purge bulb and the fuel lines go from tank to carb inlet, carb outlet to primer inlet, and primer outlet back to tank. I can pump the bulb all I want and not flood the engine with gas.
#15
ILENGINE
ILENGINE
Do you have one of those new 3 hose primer systems. If you have a non primer carb that has been fitted with a primer I wonder why even have the primer other than to make starting faster but more complicated.I have a 251c and it has the most ridiculous primer. It has a regular saw carb not designed for a purge bulb. The bulb pushes fuel into the carb fuel inlet and has a goofy bypass hose too. Only ever seen it on the 251c. The regular 251 doesn't have it.
#16
Hammermechanicman
Hammermechanicman
Yeah it is one of those. Looks like they just took a non purge carb and fabricobbled a primer bulb to it. I didn't buy it as it is a dumpster reacue. Great little saw. I am the guy with 5 saws and doesn't burn wood. Wife likes to razz me about too many saws so I switched to having too many Japanese cooking knives. She just rolls her eyes and shakes her head when the UPS truck shows up and she asks if it is mower parts or another knife.
#17
P
peanstein
P
peanstein
A clogged exhaust spark arrestor was the culprit for a saw I helped my in-law fix.
We took it off and torched it till all the build-up was gone. Problem solved.
This was after a thorough carb cleaning and a coil replacement, which did not remedy the issue.
We took it off and torched it till all the build-up was gone. Problem solved.
This was after a thorough carb cleaning and a coil replacement, which did not remedy the issue.
#18
L10-11xx
L10-11xx
You are right a spark arrestor can give you fits, but that is not the case here it is a saw that has a mine of its own when it comes to starting. As I have said in the past I can get it started, but it is a crap shoot if I have the luck needed on any given day.
#19
S
slomo
S
slomo
Probably in the manual as well which doesn't get read.Next time you try to start it try this.
1. Push primer bulb 5 times, make sure it fills full.
2. Set at full choke.
3. Throttle wide open.
4. Pull rope until you hear it pop.
5. Move choke to half position.
6. Pull start.
This is the procedure I instruct my customers to use on both Stihl and Echo equipment.
#20
F
farmerdave1954
F
farmerdave1954
You've probably already checked it, but I've seen a clogged air intake filter cause this same problem on Stihl FS series string trimmers and leaf blowers.
#21
S
Shady oak
S
Shady oak
I have a Stihl saw and leaf blower. I thoroughly dislike EZ starts. I have a bigger jonsrud with a compression release. Love it. I do get both the Stihls started, but one must follow the ”process” waiting for the poor. Lol
#22
1
12icer
1
12icer
I have one never fails to start, BUT I wind two wraps of the starter cord around my hand till it comes to the first tension point then pull it all the way till it stops in one slow smooth pull, If you pump the primer and set the choke like it says to it will fire and quit, move to half choke and it will start right up catch the trigger, and take the choke off let it smooth out an it will cut like a "HAINT" !!!!
I have used a lot of saws, and I do not prefer the easy start variety, I can throw start a big Husky or Stihl BUT for someone who cannot handle throw starting a full size larger saw these are the ticket.
I have used a lot of saws, and I do not prefer the easy start variety, I can throw start a big Husky or Stihl BUT for someone who cannot handle throw starting a full size larger saw these are the ticket.
#23
Tiger Small Engine
Tiger Small Engine
Any piece of good 2-stroke equipment that is running right, starts with no or very little throttle. Wide open throttle is for when the chainsaw floods and you pull it around 10 times at WOT and it often starts.Next time you try to start it try this.
1. Push primer bulb 5 times, make sure it fills full.
2. Set at full choke.
3. Throttle wide open.
4. Pull rope until you hear it pop.
5. Move choke to half position.
6. Pull start.
This is the procedure I instruct my customers to use on both Stihl and Echo equipment.
#24
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
My Echo and Stihl equipment start’s easily with the procedure I posted, with no flooding.
#25
L10-11xx
L10-11xx
Update, as I and others have said this saw will flood if looked at wrong so I have found that if there is gas in the bulb leave it alone and set the lever to choke, and start from there this seems to work for now who knows what will work next week?
#26
Tiger Small Engine
Tiger Small Engine
Handheld equipment is sometimes difficult to start. Especially if it is not running properly and if the operator does not know how to start it right. It can be a very frustrating experience when you go to use a chainsaw, trimmer, blower, etc. and it won’t start. My experience has shown that you can’t always blame the equipment.Update, as I and others have said this saw will flood if looked at wrong so I have found that if there is gas in the bulb leave it alone and set the lever to choke, and start from there this seems to work for now who knows what will work next week?
#27
S
SHB
S
SHB
Two things about starting the MS251 is one pull the yo-yo starter slowly and let the spring tension crank the engine. And when cold starting crank in the choke position till the engine attempts to start but no more than 4 cranks before taking out of choke position . Most of the time the saw will let out a very soft poot and then if you turn the choke off it will start within a couple cranks. If you miss the poot and crank it again it will flood.
#28
S
SHB
S
SHB
I have one, it’s always been easy to start. Just followed the procedure listed above
Push the primer a couple of times
Hold the throttle wide open and advance the control to the start position
Pull the cord gently a couple times till it “burps”
Move the control up one notch
Pull cord, generally starts within 1-3 pulls
Somewhere I have read that if you haul on the cord like a regular saw (not easy start) it will flood every time. Only thing I dislike about the saw is it leaks bar lube. I keep it in a tub I use for tractor oil changes, it will leak the lube tank dry over time. Other than cleaning the saw I haven’t looked further into this issue.
Push the primer a couple of times
Hold the throttle wide open and advance the control to the start position
Pull the cord gently a couple times till it “burps”
Move the control up one notch
Pull cord, generally starts within 1-3 pulls
Somewhere I have read that if you haul on the cord like a regular saw (not easy start) it will flood every time. Only thing I dislike about the saw is it leaks bar lube. I keep it in a tub I use for tractor oil changes, it will leak the lube tank dry over time. Other than cleaning the saw I haven’t looked further into this issue.
#29
J
JAZ
J
JAZ
I too have a few " easy start items" that act the same way. Thanks for the advice. I am 80 and still pull like I did 20 years ago. I have noticed that I have better luck starting like you suggested. Thank you so much. So, you can teach an old dog new tricks.
#30
N
nackesww
N
nackesww
I have 3 stihl chainsaws. Give a couple pulls without the choke on first, Then use choke. I had same problem starting my ms 360 when i first got it.
#31
S
STEVES
S
STEVES
I put mine on it's side, bar up, to keep oil in the tank.I have one, it’s always been easy to start. Just followed the procedure listed above
Push the primer a couple of times
Hold the throttle wide open and advance the control to the start position
Pull the cord gently a couple times till it “burps”
Move the control up one notch
Pull cord, generally starts within 1-3 pulls
Somewhere I have read that if you haul on the cord like a regular saw (not easy start) it will flood every time. Only thing I dislike about the saw is it leaks bar lube. I keep it in a tub I use for tractor oil changes, it will leak the lube tank dry over time. Other than cleaning the saw I haven’t looked further into this issue.
#32
G
g-man57
G
g-man57
Hmmm... I wonder if this is the case with my Jonsered 2258? I've run hundreds, or more, gallons of gas thru chainsaws when I was young. Just choke, drop start, when if fires, take choke off and pull again. If it floods, hold the throttle and pull a few times - it will fire. My new (10 yo) Jonsered has the symptoms you mention in this post. IMaybe a similar EIM. I'll take your advice. ThanksIf this saw has been repeated flooded to the extent that you claim, it may be in need of a new spark plug due to conductive fuel soaking into the ceramic of the plug causing it to short out internally.
Just as a side note I own a MS251C that I took in on a trade a few years ago. And your starting issue is far from limited on several stihl model saws. And part of the issue has to due to the variable spark timing of the electronic ignition module. If you try to crank them too fast it throws the spark advance off causing hard starting and flooding.
The Makita 6400 saw has that issue to the point that if you try to drop start it, it will flood everytime to the point of gas running out of the muffler Let your 13 year old daughter crank it and it will start in 2 pulls or less everytime.
#33
S
smallenginerepairs
S
smallenginerepairs
Sthil chainsaws are the best saws on the market !!! All sthil chainsaws, are easy to flood if you don't listen for that little poof( small ignition hit). Put the saw on full choke (lever all the way down, you have to pull on throtle trigger to get it down the last knotch, which is choke position), pull the rope until you hear that little hit. Then pull the lever up one knotch( which is out of choke position- to full throtle position). Pull cord until it starts, usually one or two pulls. Then when thw saw starts, hit the trigger all the way and let off it, this will let it drop yo idle. If ot should start to die hit the throtle a little to keep it running. If you have to do this the idle should be increased a little so it dosen't die.
DO NOT rev the saw like a fool, like you are reving a Harley motorcycle to impress onlookersthis will take away from the life of your saw !!! as alunimun head and piston with steel rings. This saw after starting should be allowed to idle until it warms up snd the rings are allowed to expand from the heat of combustion in the cylinder. When I start my saws, I start them and then set them on the ground for a good 30 seconds to one minute to let it warm up. All my saws are Sthils and all my saws will outperform any rivals !!
My favorite one is an older ms440 . i believe it's a 28" blade on it and it is amazing !!
I have a wood burning fireplace, And huge oak trees on my property and i go through at least 8-10 face cords of wood each year heating my home.
If you take my advice and treat your saws like you want them to last, you will never have a problem with them. Good luck in your future sawing !!!
DO NOT rev the saw like a fool, like you are reving a Harley motorcycle to impress onlookersthis will take away from the life of your saw !!! as alunimun head and piston with steel rings. This saw after starting should be allowed to idle until it warms up snd the rings are allowed to expand from the heat of combustion in the cylinder. When I start my saws, I start them and then set them on the ground for a good 30 seconds to one minute to let it warm up. All my saws are Sthils and all my saws will outperform any rivals !!
My favorite one is an older ms440 . i believe it's a 28" blade on it and it is amazing !!
I have a wood burning fireplace, And huge oak trees on my property and i go through at least 8-10 face cords of wood each year heating my home.
If you take my advice and treat your saws like you want them to last, you will never have a problem with them. Good luck in your future sawing !!!
#34
G
Gord Baker
G
Gord Baker
If it were my saw, I would get rid of it. My Poulan starts Every Time. It is electric and I have long cords.
#35
S
Skyharbor106
S
Skyharbor106
I had a similar Stihl a MS250 I think. It never started up for my occasional use. I know a lot of professional gardeners and lawn care companies swear by Stihl but not me. I sold it and bought a Greenworks 80 volt chainsaw and never looked back. I have two batteries and they last as long as I do. For me it cuts what I need to to. Adios gas chainsaws!I have the ms251C Light 04 as you can see in the title it truly is a love-hate relationship I have with this chainsaw. If you can get it to start on the first few pulls it is a great saw if you can't it is the worst saw you can have. This saw is sold as an easy start and it is if you get it to fire in the first second or two if not put it away and get out the old saw. When I first got this saw I thought it was an operator error, but not anymore it is a case of crap or great. OK let's assume that it is me how do you get this thing to start without learning how to swear like a trooper? This saw must flood by just looking at it wrong, I really don't want to take off the cover each time I run into a starting problem to try and dry out the carb or throw Eather down the carb.
#36
ILENGINE
ILENGINE
the older Stihls would start and run a couple seconds with the choke on before dying or if you were quick could get it off of choke before it died, the newer saws basically won't even run on choke, and all you get is that little poof which people don't equate to it started and died or in noisy areas you will not even know it poofed.Sthil chainsaws are the best saws on the market !!! All sthil chainsaws, are easy to flood if you don't listen for that little poof( small ignition hit). Put the saw on full choke (lever all the way down, you have to pull on throtle trigger to get it down the last knotch, which is choke position), pull the rope until you hear that little hit. Then pull the lever up one knotch( which is out of choke position- to full throtle position). Pull cord until it starts, usually one or two pulls. Then when thw saw starts, hit the trigger all the way and let off it, this will let it drop yo idle. If ot should start to die hit the throtle a little to keep it running. If you have to do this the idle should be increased a little so it dosen't die.
DO NOT rev the saw like a fool, like you are reving a Harley motorcycle to impress onlookersthis will take away from the life of your saw !!! as alunimun head and piston with steel rings. This saw after starting should be allowed to idle until it warms up snd the rings are allowed to expand from the heat of combustion in the cylinder. When I start my saws, I start them and then set them on the ground for a good 30 seconds to one minute to let it warm up. All my saws are Sthils and all my saws will outperform any rivals !!
My favorite one is an older ms440 . i believe it's a 28" blade on it and it is amazing !!
I have a wood burning fireplace, And huge oak trees on my property and i go through at least 8-10 face cords of wood each year heating my home.
If you take my advice and treat your saws like you want them to last, you will never have a problem with them. Good luck in your future sawing !!!
#37
E
etbrown4
E
etbrown4
It's not just this saw. I have a new ms170 and it is a beast to start. It's getting spark so I've ordered a new carb. Two cycles are all about spark and fuel so it's usually one or the other. Can't tell you how many times a new $15 carb has renewed my Stilh hedge trimmer. I feel your pain.
#38
P
pistol1980
P
pistol1980
I’m a believer in buying pre-mix fuel. I can leave all my equipment set all winter with gas in it and it starts right up in the spring. I had a problem with my Stihl weed eater and ordered a tune up kit, filter, plug, air filter and it started right up. I also buy Ethanol free gas for my mower and power washer and they start right up in the spring.I have the ms251C Light 04 as you can see in the title it truly is a love-hate relationship I have with this chainsaw. If you can get it to start on the first few pulls it is a great saw if you can't it is the worst saw you can have. This saw is sold as an easy start and it is if you get it to fire in the first second or two if not put it away and get out the old saw. When I first got this saw I thought it was an operator error, but not anymore it is a case of crap or great. OK let's assume that it is me how do you get this thing to start without learning how to swear like a trooper? This saw must flood by just looking at it wrong, I really don't want to take off the cover each time I run into a starting problem to try and dry out the carb or throw Eather down the carb.
#39
S
schreib69
My own 2 cents: I have a Stihl FS 45 string trimmer, now it may have other problems making it hard to start, but top on my list is my WIFE cannot even pull the cord-- not enough strength at 72. I have to go out and buy a dang battery driven trimmer so she can trim weeds. On the other hand, her simple little Tecumseh rototiller, she can start no problem, every time. A bigger engine.
Now, back onto the subject. This same string trimmer is hard starting too. After reading suggestions above I will try the "not more than 4 pulls at Full choke" and "slow / easy pulls" before putting it up for sale on Craig's List. I just don't have time to putz with all the small engines sometimes. My 362, 462, and MS25C all start fine though.
S
schreib69
Well, after reading this I actually have to agree with the poster! Hey, Stihl should KNOW(!) after building saws for a century(?) that GUYS are pulling on saws-- not little girls. If the damn thing won't start, guys pull harder and faster too!If this saw has been repeated flooded to the extent that you claim, it may be in need of a new spark plug due to conductive fuel soaking into the ceramic of the plug causing it to short out internally.
Just as a side note I own a MS251C that I took in on a trade a few years ago. And your starting issue is far from limited on several stihl model saws. And part of the issue has to due to the variable spark timing of the electronic ignition module. If you try to crank them too fast it throws the spark advance off causing hard starting and flooding.
The Makita 6400 saw has that issue to the point that if you try to drop start it, it will flood everytime to the point of gas running out of the muffler Let your 13 year old daughter crank it and it will start in 2 pulls or less everytime.
My own 2 cents: I have a Stihl FS 45 string trimmer, now it may have other problems making it hard to start, but top on my list is my WIFE cannot even pull the cord-- not enough strength at 72. I have to go out and buy a dang battery driven trimmer so she can trim weeds. On the other hand, her simple little Tecumseh rototiller, she can start no problem, every time. A bigger engine.
Now, back onto the subject. This same string trimmer is hard starting too. After reading suggestions above I will try the "not more than 4 pulls at Full choke" and "slow / easy pulls" before putting it up for sale on Craig's List. I just don't have time to putz with all the small engines sometimes. My 362, 462, and MS25C all start fine though.
#40
W
William Burchell
W
William Burchell
Try using the premixed fuel you purchase in the quart or gallon container, higher priced but will fix 50% of the problems of Stihl saws brought into my shop that will not start
#41
J
Johner
J
Johner
All 2 cycle engines should use 89 octane or better. Saw a collapsed piston from using 87 octane.
#42
Hammermechanicman
Millions of 2 strokes run just fine on regular 87 octane gas.
Hammermechanicman
Wrong.All 2 cycle engines should use 89 octane or better. Saw a collapsed piston from using 87 octane.
Millions of 2 strokes run just fine on regular 87 octane gas.
#43
Sean OM
Sean OM
The 361c is as finicky. If you miss the poop, which I don't think it does every time, you have to set it down and wait for 15-20 minutes. The small poulan woodshark I have starts =far= more reliably. It doesn't have nearly as much power. The greenworks 80v electric is probably close to the equivalent of the 251 with no starting issues, little vibration and little noise. I have issues with it are related to the battery life (i have the smallest battery) and the bar and chain. I just wouldn't use it for felling trees larger then 20" because I don't want to run out of juice after I start. felling trees is dicey enough as it is.. bucking 30" elm was only issue because it could make it through about 1 cut per charge, but I do that so little, it isn't a big deal.
#44
C
CaptFerd
C
CaptFerd
Stihl MS saws all share a common problem. Take the muffler of and look at the piston. See those scatches? Check out this video
#45
F
Frank E. McMillan
F
Frank E. McMillan
I feel your pain!! I have a Stihl FS 240 trimmer. I finally decided to experiment with starting other than the manual advised way. Sometimes I would not prime or choke and instead just pull the cord several times. Much of the time it would start. Sometimes after pulling several times I would press the gas/trigger all the way and start pulling and it would start. Didn't make much sense to me but there we are!! More recently, it has gone back to starting by priming, choking and pulling. I suppose there must be a mechanical reason but I sure can't figure it out. But then, I've always heard that Sthil was difficult to start!I have the ms251C Light 04 as you can see in the title it truly is a love-hate relationship I have with this chainsaw. If you can get it to start on the first few pulls it is a great saw if you can't it is the worst saw you can have. This saw is sold as an easy start and it is if you get it to fire in the first second or two if not put it away and get out the old saw. When I first got this saw I thought it was an operator error, but not anymore it is a case of crap or great. OK let's assume that it is me how do you get this thing to start without learning how to swear like a trooper? This saw must flood by just looking at it wrong, I really don't want to take off the cover each time I run into a starting problem to try and dry out the carb or throw Eather down the carb.
#46
wolf865
wolf865
Borrowed my nephews 180C and had the same flooding problem until I looked up a YouTube video. Full choke, pull until you hear the first "poot", switch to half choke and it would almost always start on the 3rd or 4th pull after that. Saw one video (wasn't a "C" model) where the person recommended that you do a full choke and only pull the cord till you get past that 1st compression, then switch to half choke and finish your pull(s)? Haven't had time to try that on my own small chainsaw as I think I've boogered the chain trying to sharpen it with the Harbor Freight electric sharpener. So want to get those teeth (and rakers) back in spec.
Though I've got access to two Stihl's via family members about to buy myself a 211C. Got to at least keep up with the brother-in-law and it's gonna be hard to go back to a Homelite XL2 after using the nephews 180C? Fell in love with the easy start, chain tensioner, and easy access side panel. Is the 211C a good investment ($359) or worth paying the difference to step up to the 251C?
Though I've got access to two Stihl's via family members about to buy myself a 211C. Got to at least keep up with the brother-in-law and it's gonna be hard to go back to a Homelite XL2 after using the nephews 180C? Fell in love with the easy start, chain tensioner, and easy access side panel. Is the 211C a good investment ($359) or worth paying the difference to step up to the 251C?
#47
R
RaulMcCai
Them Thar Stihl Engineers must a' let the kids do the engineerin' on take your five year old to work day.
R
RaulMcCai
If you miss the poot and crank it again it will flood.
Them Thar Stihl Engineers must a' let the kids do the engineerin' on take your five year old to work day.
#48
R
RaulMcCai
R
RaulMcCai
I can honestly say that the number of times I've started any of my saws any other way than dropping 'em could be counted on my fingers. Well Throwing is more like, I gotta heave my 440 magnum good and hard. never had any problems starting my 036; that saw is a dream. I even toss my little Echo I used to use for tree climbing when I still had calcium in my bones.And as mentioned drop starting will not work.
#49
L
lbrac
L
lbrac
This is somewhat off-topic but related to the hard start problem. Compact engines usually have a smaller diameter starter cord pulley, which makes them harder to pull over due to having less leverage than a larger diameter pulley. I suspect that is what led to the easy start systems. I have a 40-year-old McCulloch chainsaw that has a larger diameter start pulley, and it is considerably easier to pull over than a similar capacity, but smaller, Husqvarna saw that I have. An old Poulan chainsaw that I replaced the fuel hoses on for a neighbor, was similar to the McCulloch, but like the McCulloch, it was a physically larger and heavier saw than the Husqvarna. Larger equipment, like push mowers, are often easier to pull over than a small saw, blower or trimmer, even though the engine displacement is greater. They are heavier and more stable, which counteracts the force applied to crank them, and the starter rope pulley is usually larger than that of compact handheld equipment.Well, after reading this I actually have to agree with the poster! Hey, Stihl should KNOW(!) after building saws for a century(?) that GUYS are pulling on saws-- not little girls. If the damn thing won't start, guys pull harder and faster too!
My own 2 cents: I have a Stihl FS 45 string trimmer, now it may have other problems making it hard to start, but top on my list is my WIFE cannot even pull the cord-- not enough strength at 72. I have to go out and buy a dang battery driven trimmer so she can trim weeds. On the other hand, her simple little Tecumseh rototiller, she can start no problem, every time. A bigger engine.
Now, back onto the subject. This same string trimmer is hard starting too. After reading suggestions above I will try the "not more than 4 pulls at Full choke" and "slow / easy pulls" before putting it up for sale on Craig's List. I just don't have time to putz with all the small engines sometimes. My 362, 462, and MS25C all start fine though.
#50
ILENGINE
ILENGINE
Will have some effect ot starting, but also need to take into account that older saws ran a 7:1 or so compression ratio whereas the newer Stihls, Husqvarna, Dolmar/Makita run a 10:1 ratio. Which is the reason that call for 89 octane or higher fuel.This is somewhat off-topic but related to the hard start problem. Compact engines usually have a smaller diameter starter cord pulley, which makes them harder to pull over due to having less leverage than a larger diameter pulley. I suspect that is what led to the easy start systems. I have a 40-year-old McCulloch chainsaw that has a larger diameter start pulley, and it is considerably easier to pull over than a similar capacity, but smaller, Husqvarna saw that I have. An old Poulan chainsaw that I replaced the fuel hoses on for a neighbor, was similar to the McCulloch, but like the McCulloch, it was a physically larger and heavier saw than the Husqvarna. Larger equipment, like push mowers, are often easier to pull over than a small saw, blower or trimmer, even though the engine displacement is greater. They are heavier and more stable, which counteracts the force applied to crank them, and the starter rope pulley is usually larger than that of compact handheld equipment.
#51
Hammermechanicman
Hammermechanicman
I have a 361 clone and a 660 clone both running 195psi compression. If you don't use the compression release it breaks the starter pawls. Over 10:1 compression ratio. Dozens of tanks of regular gas through both.
I have always wondered what the failure mode of 2 strokes is when a fuel with too low an octane rating is used.
I have always wondered what the failure mode of 2 strokes is when a fuel with too low an octane rating is used.
#52
R
RaulMcCai
R
RaulMcCai
do you know when this happened? when the switch for Stihl specifically occurred?Will have some effect ot starting, but also need to take into account that older saws ran a 7:1 or so compression ratio whereas the newer Stihls, Husqvarna, Dolmar/Makita run a 10:1 ratio. Which is the reason that call for 89 octane or higher fuel.
#53
ILENGINE
ILENGINE
Don't know specifically but I purchased a new 029 around 1995 that called for 89 octane or higher. Picked up an old 015 at a pawn shop in the late 80's that ran on 40:1.do you know when this happened? when the switch for Stihl specifically occurred?