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Got this stihl blower , went to start and never would start, last time i used started right up,but this time no, i went got new plug put in and same ,had a friend hold gas full throttle and it started but it would barly run ,i started to pump bub and it picked up and ran , cut off and same had to pump bub to get to run full throttle What could be my problem carb.?????

rickhun said:

Got this stihl blower , went to start and never would start, last time i used started right up,but this time no, i went got new plug put in and same ,had a friend hold gas full throttle and it started but it would barly run ,i started to pump bub and it picked up and ran , cut off and same had to pump bub to get to run full throttle What could be my problem carb.?????

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Since I'm not a mechanic, the only advice I could give you would be to look at these other threads--maybe you will find something (at least until someone else responds).

http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/small-engine-mower-repair/7852-stihl-br600-blower-not-starting.html

http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/small-engine-mower-repair/12077-leaf-blower-wont-start.html

Good luck! :smile:

sounds like a clogged muffler or a fuel problem, I would check the muffler first then if it isnt clogged then it is sometype of fuel problem.

There is a little screen in your muffler (pollution stuff) stick a screwdriver in the screen and pull it out . I run alot of Stihl in my landscaping business , these always affect the machine . Now if you mow in state parks etc . you will need to keep these in as per there pollution regulations.

lunytune2 said:

There is a little screen in your muffler (pollution stuff) stick a screwdriver in the screen and pull it out . I run alot of Stihl in my landscaping business , these always affect the machine . Now if you mow in state parks etc . you will need to keep these in as per there pollution regulations.

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That Little screen is called a Spark Arresting Screen. It probably needs to be removed and cleaned and re- installed, don't run the machine without it. It actually doesn't have much to do with pollution, it actually keeps Hot carbonized deposits from escaping from the exhaust and possibly catching something on fire or so they claim. The screens become either damaged or heavily carbonized and need to be cleaned if the engine is down on power, doesn't run smoothly and run at its max rpm. You can remove three screws off the cover on the side of the muffler to expose the screen, remove the screen and clean with a wire brush and just re-install it no big problem, a 2 minute job. I do it to my BR 550 a couple a times a year. In fact on the 600 you don't even need to remove the screws, there are two holes on the cover at the muffler location just loosen them and take a pair of pliers and pull out the the square exhaust tube and remove the screen, the tube slides in and out.

A Stihl mechanic told me to take it out and throw it away ... been running like that for years .... no fires yet , and they run great with no problems.

It doesn't sound like a exhaust problem at all. If your having to prime it to get it to full throttle, I would start in the carburetor.

lunytune2 said:

A Stihl mechanic told me to take it out and throw it away ... been running like that for years .... no fires yet , and they run great with no problems.

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The mechanic where I purchased mine told me not to run without it. You can do what you like, :smile: I just told him what I was told and what the manual says the procedure is for maintenance and it says clean it or replace it.
As far as being a carb problem that maybe true but I've always been a believer in doing the cheapest and easiest things first. Process of elimination.

If the exhaust is stopped up. Priming it would not allow it to open up. It would run bad consistently.

Exmark fan said:

If the exhaust is stopped up. Priming it would not allow it to open up. It would run bad consistently.

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The only thing I can see that priming would do is to force more gas into the cylinder to burn and it would burn for a short period. He has changed the plug, how about the air filters, how about gas filter, how about the primer blub itself for cracks, they are noted to go bad. That's why I suggested the process of elimination before you go into the carb. 99% of the time it's the simply fix that's overlooked. It's all just suggestions to maybe save money.

Ric said:

The only thing I can see that priming would do is to force more gas into the cylinder to burn and it would burn for a short period.

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The primer bulb does not pump gas into the engine. It pumps gas into the carb only, purging it of air, and excess gas is returned to the fuel tank. Giving it throttle OTOH, especially with the choke closed, will definitely flood the engine. Some carbs have a fuel screen, which if clogged will prevent gas from entering the engine, which may be the problem here. In that case, the carb must be disassembled to clean it.

I know it does not sound like the exhaust , but try it ... take it out and try to start it ... if it works clean or replace it . Trust me , I run (5) of them . Along with Stihl chainsaws, hedge trimmers , concrete saws , weedwackers , and handheld blowers .

9 times out of 10 a 2 stroke problem is always in the carb.
Stripdown then use an ultra sonic cleaner to clean the passages usually sorts it out.
The carbs and pipes basically need to seal to draw fuel.
If the metoring lever is set too high then the diaphragm will push the lever down to open the needle which will then put too much fuel. if set too low then not enough fuel.
Walbro carbs use a W guage to check lever.
Zama carbs usually use a straight edge.
Also if the pipes are holed then fuel will not go to carb.
But like many posters have said it always process of elimination.

lunytune2 said:

There is a little screen in your muffler (pollution stuff) stick a screwdriver in the screen and pull it out . I run alot of Stihl in my landscaping business , these always affect the machine . Now if you mow in state parks etc . you will need to keep these in as per there pollution regulations.

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The muffler screens have zero to do with pollution. They are there as a spark arrestor so you dont catch the woods, field, lawn on fire...

PowerOutletTech said:

The muffler screens have zero to do with pollution. They are there as a spark arrestor so you dont catch the woods, field, lawn on fire...

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I took them out of my echo stuff. I put them back if you keep them clean (purple cleaner and a wire brush) they don't affect performance at all

exotion said:

I took them out of my echo stuff. I put them back if you keep them clean (purple cleaner and a wire brush) they don't affect performance at all

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Did you replace the exhaust gasket after you removed the spark arrestor screen ? Also, does the exhaust gasket seal properly with the spark arrestor screen removed ?

MowerMike said:

Did you replace the exhaust gasket after you removed the spark arrestor screen ? Also, does the exhaust gasket seal properly with the spark arrestor screen removed ?

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The gaskets come off clean no damage so no replace. And the screen sits in its own little groove and doesn't affect how the gasket seals. That does remind me tho I do need to order a few of those gaskets my weedeaters gasket is leaking you can tell because of all the black crap on the outside of it and inside the plastic covers

Same here all my equipment has no screens once they plugged up I remove an never put them back in :tongue:

pugaltitude said:

9 times out of 10 a 2 stroke problem is always in the carb.
Stripdown then use an ultra sonic cleaner to clean the passages usually sorts it out.
The carbs and pipes basically need to seal to draw fuel.
If the metoring lever is set too high then the diaphragm will push the lever down to open the needle which will then put too much fuel. if set too low then not enough fuel.
Walbro carbs use a W guage to check lever.
Zama carbs usually use a straight edge.
Also if the pipes are holed then fuel will not go to carb.
But like many posters have said it always process of elimination.

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The problem with your suggestion is the BR 600 is a 4 - mix engine not a 2 stroke.

Stihl BR600 is it not a 4 stroke engine but uses 2 cycle gas mix as there is no separate oil.

EngineMan said:

Stihl BR600 is it not a 4 stroke engine but uses 2 cycle gas mix as there is no separate oil.

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The BR 430, 500, 550 and 600 is what Stihl calls a 4 mix engine, which is a single cylinder Four-stroke engine with gas-oil lubrication. it runs off a 50 to 1 mixture there is no separate oil reservoir or crankcase for added weight. I believe all there hand held units are 4 mix except the FS94. look in the manual.

EngineMan said:

Stihl BR600 is it not a 4 stroke engine but uses 2 cycle gas mix as there is no separate oil.

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Oh ric, you are getting in fuddle about oil filters and now you
want to bring something up which was posted about a year ago.

It will be the same type of carb system as a 2 stroke but iv never sold one as i wouldnt sell due to its too expensive as there is better for less money.
Probably made in china aswell!!!

pugaltitude said:

Oh ric, you are getting in fuddle about oil filters and now you
want to bring something up which was posted about a year ago.

It will be the same type of carb system as a 2 stroke but iv never sold one as i wouldnt sell due to its too expensive as there is better for less money.
Probably made in china aswell!!!

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Hey I didn't res-erect this thread. Your again totally wrong Stihl is made here in the USA and there's nothing better on the market because everything else is made in Japan like your Daihatsu Vangaurd

Ric said:

Hey I didn't res-erect this thread. Your again totally wrong Stihl is made here in the USA and there's nothing better on the market because everything else is made in Japan like your Daihatsu Vangaurd

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Again im not wrong about Stihl as they are blogging about it. STIHL China

The home owner Stihl product like hedgecutter, Chainsaws and Brushcutters are made in China as stated in blogs and china website.
I would take Japanese product over Chinese for quality but it will be more expensive.
The Stone saws were and could still be made in Brazil but I think production has stopped.

Nothing wrong with at all but why buy a chinese product and pay over the odds because its named Stihl.
I just find there is better product at a better price.

Now the pro equipment is and always probably will be fantastic in the application that it is intended for which is usually German or American made.

We had a brand new stihl br600 work for 20 minutes. Would not start again. Took it back to have fixed. The magneto was bad in it causing it to not get a spark so it wouldn't start.

So they fixed it eh?????

Yes they fixed it. Under warranty other wise it was gonna be like 200 for parts and labor.

pugaltitude said:

Again im not wrong about Stihl as they are blogging about it. STIHL China

The home owner Stihl product like hedgecutter, Chainsaws and Brushcutters are made in China as stated in blogs and china website.
I would take Japanese product over Chinese for quality but it will be more expensive.
The Stone saws were and could still be made in Brazil but I think production has stopped.

Nothing wrong with at all but why buy a chinese product and pay over the odds because its named Stihl.
I just find there is better product at a better price.

Now the pro equipment is and always probably will be fantastic in the application that it is intended for which is usually German or American made.

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Get To know Stihl INC. In Virginia Beach

Thinking that it was a 4 stroke and not adding oil to the mid would no doubt cause serious issues like burning out your rings and would likely cause the piston and possibly cylinder to be scored and possibly seizing up. I would bet that its the rings that are bad causing poor compression and starting impossible. Most 2 strokes will not be able to run with anything less than 100 psi of compression and not run descent under 120. I can't remember right now for sure what stihl plates there pistons with but I think its zinc which makes them very difficult to score and usually causes the rings to go bad before the piston and cylinder. I wouldn't be to shocked if you need to practically tear down the motor and replace the rings that fit around the piston inside the cylinder. Most people aren't mechanically skilled enough to do this on there own. I learned most everything like that from watching tutorial videos on You-tube. Donny boy is a very informative person who has many video's there that I have watched. If you ever get the compression back and start using your blower again remember to always mix a quality 2 stroke oil in with the gas(not in the blower by the way ever) . I tend to use a very slight bit more oil when breaking in my motors during the first 10 to 20 hours and would go with a 40 to 1 mixture minimum(36-1 is what I run during the breaking in period). Also remember that using to much oil in the mixture or running it rich will clog up your spark arrestor screen with gunk in just a few hours or less so getting a correct fuel mixture is critical. To little oil will make the motor run to hot and will damage the rings(sometimes referred to as jugs) again. Also incorrect carb settings can do the same thing and cause the motor to run to lean or at to high of RPM's. I hope you are able to end up fixing your blower so it will be running properly again. When and if you are able to start it again give it a few descent shakes before priming and trying to start it so the fuel and oil are both mixed well. If you ever plan on letting it sit with the same gas and oil in it for longer than a few months(2.5 to 3) use a fuel stabilizer.

Not all professional stuff is made here or in germany. Efco is high quality made in Italy and Husqvarna is made in Sweden.