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I've got a steady leak at the bottom of the motor and the deck. More at the corner where the engine bolt is to the front of the motor. Could it be the drain plug under the oil filter to the right? how much does it need to be torqued?

I since wiped it clean before the pic. You can see a shiny oil spot where the engine bolt is. I just hope it's not a cracked block. All the bolts are tight.

Here's a pic

The bolt you are talking about is not a torq down to seal type of bolt it is more of a teflon tape type of seal. But that is not where I think your oil is coming from. I think it is your lower oil seal for the crankshaft. It requires you to pull the engine and oil pan to replace.

When I replaced that bolt I didn't apply Teflon tape because I didn't notice any when I removed it.
I noticed a lot of oil gunk under the bolt. Looks shiny around it too.
I'll add Teflon tape and check for leaks under motor at the crank shaft.
This thing has been leaking a lot of oil. At the valve covers. Fixed that. I should have checked the drain hole while I was in there.

The bolt/plug you are talking about has some sort of sealant on it if you buy a new one for it.

If you are talking pipe threaded square drain plug shown...Normally metal to metal will seal if torqued ...?maybe30-35 ft lbs? I don't think they ever spec that value. Looking at the pan bolts reminds me of my Intek ( I am not familiar with your engine). My engine is a vibrating beast which loosened all the pan retention bolts and several were sitting on their heads waiting for me to find them (hmm , do the designers know the engine vibrates apart?). Any way with crankcase pressure sections of the pan gasket got blown out. That leaves a step in the sealing plane and no tightening of the pan bolts really stops the leaking until you go in and replace. Mine is a weeper because of that. You got a clean engine there!

motoman said:

If you are talking pipe threaded square drain plug shown...Normally metal to metal will seal if torqued ...?maybe30-35 ft lbs? I don't think they ever spec that value. Looking at the pan bolts reminds me of my Intek ( I am not familiar with your engine). My engine is a vibrating beast which loosened all the pan retention bolts and several were sitting on their heads waiting for me to find them (hmm , do the designers know the engine vibrates apart?). Any way with crankcase pressure sections of the pan gasket got blown out. That leaves a step in the sealing plane and no tightening of the pan bolts really stops the leaking until you go in and replace. Mine is a weeper because of that. You got a clean engine there!

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Thx! I power washed the area for the first time since last season. Not sure it's good for it. But, the whole deck area around the motor was covered in oil and dirt/grass. Initially, I thought I had a bad head gaskets on the V-twin blowing oil on the deck. No oil seen in that area I'll run it and hold white paper under it to see if a mist of oil coming out of it.

BlazNT said:

The bolt you are talking about is not a torq down to seal type of bolt it is more of a teflon tape type of seal. But that is not where I think your oil is coming from. I think it is your lower oil seal for the crankshaft. It requires you to pull the engine and oil pan to replace.

Click to expand...

Damn...!! You nailed it. It looks like the lower oil seal for the crankshaft is leaking. There's oil splattered underneath the whole deck.

What causes this to happen?

I'll look into changing out myself. Any idea how much a repair shop might charge for this?

Most of the time it is running with low oil.
Next usual culprit is getting string, wire etc wrapped around the out put shaft
Followed by overfilling of the sump.

Disclaimer...I only have worked on an Intek V... and remember its seal fairly well. A while back there was a brief discussion about changing the lower seal without engine removal. I don't think this ever completed. Anyway you car guys out there know there is an adapter which fits a slide hammer for pulling seals. It is a pointy finger thingy with a "finger nail" on the end. Is it possible to elevate the mower enough to access the failed seal, slide hammer it out (carefully) and drive in a replacement seal from the bottom? Avoiding damage to the shaft and seal counter bore (seat) important. :thumbsup:

Tx, Let me just take a stab at a shop rate: $200-$300 plus parts (gaskets , seal ), maybe more if you go to the "factory authorized," which may have more overhead (and in many cases do a better job?). Once inside you will face the trade offs of : hours of operation incurred vs hours left vs freshening / replacing parts etc. Pros to advise ...

Because of thee bucket design of the Kohler engines it is easy to do a seal in situ.
The caveat on this is having tools that can be used inside the limited space confined by the crankcase.

A comment for anyone who might want to try the slide hammer approach. Last nite I remembered that a small dent puller slide hammer should work and cost a lot less than a whole H Frt set. A person could make a little finger nail notch without too much difficulty.