Starter problem

Remove the starter and bench test it. When jumping a battery to it in the mower, it has to do something, unless the gear is jammed. Can the flywheel be turned easily by hand, without the plug>
Starter works fine on the bench and unit starts and runs just fine if I use a jumper from the battery to the starter. The solenoid trigger wire runs all through the machine to safety switches (all bypassed now) and the ignition switch plus a fuse block so difficult to trace it through the frame. I'm thinking of completely rewiring that circuit.
 
I have been fighting a solenoid clicks but doesn't start issue for over a year. After clicking 5, 10 or 20 times the unit will finally crank and start right up. Replaced starter--no change. replaced battery--no change. Bypassed every safety system--no change. Added a Ford solenoid and jumpered the original solenoid--no change. Replaced the solenoid on the new starter just for grins--no change.Checked the chassis ground and thought that it might not have been perfect and seemed to help at first but turns out--no change. Replaced ignition switch--no change. Now my other Briggs mower has started doing the same thing but haven't worked on it yet. I have worked on cars and trucks for 60 years --built engines, body work, etc but this one's killing me. Ideas?
Get rid of the mower and save yourself money.
 
Try these tests and let us know the results.
Connect one meter lead to the positive battery terminal then when you turn the key to the start position and it doesn't engage the starter connect the other meter lead to the large terminal on the starter connected to the battery. What is the voltage?
Then move the meter lead to the other large terminal on the starter (motor side). What is the voltage?
Then move the meter lead to the trigger terminal on the starter with the trigger wire still connected to the terminal. What is the voltage?
 
Might be a voltage drop in the trigger lead and a helper relay might be needed. I know several JD mowers had to have this mod over the years due too long of a trigger circuit.

Especially was happening with solenoid shift starters.

Yup, i use the JD AM107421 kit, but really all you need is a 4 pin relay and know what you're doing.​

 
I had done this with a brand new Ford type starter. Didn't help and in fact just bypassed it and things got slightly better.
what Ford part did you use?
I've used the starter assist relay many many times, and it's always fixed the problem....
The main goal of that kit is it removes the load from the starter circuit and puts it on the relay. the relay doesn't take much amperage at all to trigger. and amp or 2 at best, less load, less voltage drop.
 
I have been fighting a solenoid clicks but doesn't start issue for over a year. After clicking 5, 10 or 20 times the unit will finally crank and start right up. Replaced starter--no change. replaced battery--no change. Bypassed every safety system--no change. Added a Ford solenoid and jumpered the original solenoid--no change. Replaced the solenoid on the new starter just for grins--no change.Checked the chassis ground and thought that it might not have been perfect and seemed to help at first but turns out--no change. Replaced ignition switch--no change. Now my other Briggs mower has started doing the same thing but haven't worked on it yet. I have worked on cars and trucks for 60 years --built engines, body work, etc but this one's killing me. Ideas?
 
For everyone, battery cables go BAD on the INSIDE. I see this more with cars and acid splash where the inside (covered with shielding) is hollow or gone. I would test the cable before replacing it. Hate to buy things not needed.
 
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