A relay is just a switch so if they use the same switch, it will have the same part number.
That is good because you can easily test them or just go to an auto store & buy one and try substitution.
A solenoid is also a switch so in Hustlers case, they have a low current switch, ( a relay) switching a high current switch ( solenoid ) to crank the engine.
Relays are very simple they have 2 control wires one input wire which will connect to or 1 or 2 output terminals.
The control needs both a + & a - to be connected so by using a relay you can use a ground wire to control the switching which is good because it reduces the chances of short circuits to ground where wires can get pinched of chaff .
The terminals are all numbered and the numbering is the same on all of them so rather than writing 20 lines of text & confusing you , go to face book and search "Testing auto relays".
There will be a hundred of them there & with a bit of luck some even will pull one apart so you can see what is inside the "mystery box"
Because a relay is nothing more than a switch, you can use a short jumper with a male spade each end to manually make the connections thus determining if the problem is in the wiring or the relay.
Hustler have all of the wiring diagrams in their parts books which are a free download from the Hustler web page.
When diagnosing a no crank problem on a zero turn I generally use several jumpers, and jump each safety switch first then if that does not work, jump the relays.
it is done that way because it is quick & easy for me .
The big warning is not to send battery voltage down a magneto kill wire or you will kill the magneto for good.
All safety switches are sliding contact type and they make or break contact between the terminals that have the flat sides facing each other.